Puffy Tacos With Black Beans on a table in a Studio
(Scott Suchman for The Washington Post/food styling by Carolyn Robb for The Washington Post)
Democracy Dies in Darkness

Puffy Tacos With Black Beans

3.5 (43)
By Joe Yonan

If you’ve never had one of these Tex-Mex specialties, a staple in San Antonio, now’s your chance to make things right. Rather than frying tortillas until they get crispy (or using a pre-fried taco shell), you start with masa dough, press it like you’re going to make a tortilla, and slip it right into the oil. It flutters and puffs and gets crisp, and you end up with a taco shell that borders on the ethereal. The trick here is in the shaping, which takes a little practice, but even if they don’t come out quite right, you can always use them as flat-ish tostadas — or break up into chips and scoop up the filling as a dip. The eating is messy, but delicious.

Note that this recipe does not work well in an air fryer.

Storage: The black beans can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. The taco shells are best consumed immediately.

Adapted from “Cool Beans” by Joe Yonan (Ten Speed Press, 2020).

Ingredients

measuring cup
Servings: 2-4 (makes 8 tacos)

For the filling

  • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 small yellow onion (5 ounces), chopped (3/4 cup)
  • 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
  • 1 teaspoon Spanish smoked paprika (pimenton)
  • 1 teaspoon ground cumin
  • 1/2 teaspoon fine salt, plus more to taste
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 3/4 cups cooked or canned no-salt-added black beans, drained
  • 1 cup bean cooking liquid (if home-cooked) or water (if canned)
  • 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
  • 1/2 cup store-bought vegan feta, crumbled, for serving
  • 1/2 cup store-bought salsa, for serving
  • Flesh of 1 avocado, sliced, for serving
  • Sliced scallions, for serving

For the shells

  • 1 cup masa harina
  • 3/4 cup water, plus more as needed
  • 1/4 teaspoon fine salt, plus more to taste
  • Neutral oil, such as vegetable , for frying

Directions

Time Icon Total: 50 mins
  1. Step 1

    Make the filling: In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat the oil until it shimmers. Stir in the onions and garlic and saute until tender, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in the smoked paprika, cumin, salt and pepper, and saute just until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in the beans and bean liquid or water and cook until the beans are heated through and the flavors meld, about 3 minutes. Use a fork or potato masher to mash the mixture and cook until the beans are thick, 1 to 2 minutes. Turn off the heat, stir in the lime juice, taste, and season with more salt if needed. Cover to keep warm while you make the shells.

  2. Step 2

    Make the taco shells: In a medium bowl, stir together the masa harina, water and salt until it forms a soft ball the consistency of moist Play-Doh. If it’s too dry, add water 1 tablespoon at a time.

  3. Step 3

    Form the dough into a large disk, then use a sharp knife to cut it like a pie into 8 equal wedges. Form each one into a ball, then use a tortilla press (lined with heavy plastic like that cut from large zip-top bags) or roll out with a rolling pin between layers of parchment paper or plastic wrap to about a 5- to 6-inch circle. (It’s okay if the edges are ragged.) Keep the pressed circles in one layer on a large, rimmed baking sheet and cover them with a clean, damp cloth.

  4. Step 4

    Set a wire rack over a large, rimmed baking sheet.

  5. Step 5

    Pour the oil to a depth of 2 inches in a large saucepan set over medium-high heat, and heat until the oil reaches 350 degrees on an instant-read thermometer.

  6. Step 6

    Use a heatproof spatula to gently lay a disk in the oil; it should sink but quickly start to puff and float. After about 10 seconds, gently press the disk down in the center, encouraging it to slightly fold around the spatula into a wide V shape. You can also hold one side of the disk up with one spoon or spatula while gently pressing in the middle with the other.) Don’t try to fold too much, or you won’t leave room for fillings. Hold it while it fries, until light brown and crisp, another 20 seconds or so, turning it over in the oil as needed. Use tongs to gently lift it from the oil, letting the excess drip off, and transfer to the rack to drain. Repeat with the remaining masa disks.

  7. Step 7

    To serve, spoon the filling into the taco shells and top with the feta, salsa, avocado slices and scallions.

Substitutions

No black beans? >> Use pinto beans, chickpeas — any favorite legume.

Vegan feta >> Dairy feta, cotija, or another cheese you like.

Nutritional Facts

Per serving (2 filled tacos)

  • Calories

    399

  • Fat

    18 g

  • Saturated Fat

    6 g

  • Carbohydrates

    51 g

  • Sodium

    775 mg

  • Cholesterol

    0 mg

  • Protein

    11 g

  • Fiber

    12 g

  • Sugar

    3 g

This analysis is an estimate based on available ingredients and this preparation. It should not substitute for a dietitian’s or nutritionist’s advice.

Adapted from “Cool Beans” by Joe Yonan (Ten Speed Press, 2020).

Tested by Joe Yonan.

Published September 24, 2023

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