I’ve always wanted to see whirling dervishes perform the mystical Sufi ceremony known as a sema, in which their series of mesmerizing turns help them, and the audience, reach a state of nirvana. But my recent attempt to attend a ceremony in Istanbul was a giant fail. Because of a scheduling snafu and the press of time, my husband and I wound up taking our two restless children — 9 and 7 — to watch what seemed to be a touristic version of the dance, and our comprehension and appreciation of the ritual was sadly limited. In the spirit of helping other tourists get the most out of attending a whirling dervish ceremony, here’s what I wish I had known about the tradition, including what to expect and how to behave.