This Historic A-List Hot Spot in Portofino Has a Stunning New Look—And Is the Place to Be Seen This Summer

Behind the elegant, dark wood-paneled front desk of Splendido, A Belmond Hotel, Portofino, there sits a heavy, weather-beaten, leather-bound book. Inside its gently yellowed pages, you’ll find the autographs of many of the historic hotel’s most distinguished guests from decades past: Princess Grace of Monaco, who can be seen, in ravishing black-and-white photos, strolling past the hotel’s laidback La Terrazza restaurant; Ava Gardner, who even has a suite named after her at the property’s sister hotel, Splendido Mare, just a stone’s throw away; and Elizabeth Taylor, who accepted Richard Burton’s proposal, the first time around, on one of its wisteria-covered terraces (her favorite dish, the spaghetti pomodoro with tomatoes in three textures, is still on the menu).

Despite its illustrious pedigree, though, Splendido has never been content to rest on its laurels, as evidenced by the notes left in the book’s final pages, from its most recent visitors: everyone from Dua Lipa to Megan Fox and Machine Gun Kelly. They’re drawn by the building’s incredible setting and history, of course—hewn onto a verdant cliffside overlooking the glittering Ligurian Sea, it was originally a Benedictine monastery and then the summer home of an Italian baron before being transformed into a glamorous hotel in 1902—but also its unfailingly discreet and relaxed atmosphere, as well as its perpetual eagerness to look to the future and adapt its lavish suites and palatial communal spaces accordingly.

To that end, the hotel is currently in the midst of an epic, multi-year restoration and redesign spearheaded by Martin Brudnizki, the Swedish architect behind the ornate and wonderfully whimsical interiors of Annabel’s, the eye-popping splendor of The Coral Room at The Bloomsbury, and the old-world ostentation of The Beekman in New York, among countless other hotels, bars, restaurants and private members’ clubs. Renowned for his talent for reinvigorating historical buildings by imbuing them with a sense of playful theatricality and humor, he’s the ideal choice for the project, though he hesitates to call it a redesign per se. “We’re just reviving it for a new era,” he asserts, adding that the goal was to make guests feel like they’re bedding down at a friend’s villa, albeit a wildly wealthy one’s. “We wanted it to look like a house that had been in the family for generations and had been lovingly added to over the years.”

To achieve this authentic, informal, lived-in feel, Brudnizki took inspiration from a number of stunning buildings in the region, from La Cervara, a 14th-century abbey with spectacular gardens which now functions as a scenic wedding venue, to two that are visible in the distance from Splendido’s panoramic terraces: San Giorgio, a soaring, lemon-colored church; and Castello Brown, an ancient fort-turned-historic house museum. Homing in on their uniquely Ligurian design details, he sought to combine these in unexpected ways in the spaces he’s renovating, to create something that pays tribute to traditional techniques and local craftsmanship while also feeling resolutely contemporary.

The first phase of the hotel’s reconfiguration, which was unveiled earlier this month, centers on three major components: the expansive pool area; the neighboring Splendido Grill restaurant; and the jaw-dropping Baronessa Suite, the hotel’s crown jewel. Alterations to the former, by landscape architect Marco Bay, have been subtle but significant, nodding to both the natural environment and the pastel-hued houses that line Portofino’s cobblestone Piazzetta: the azure tiles inside the spacious, 1970s-era saltwater swimming pool have been replaced with a constellation of pale blue, navy and deep green tones which echo the shimmering open water beyond, and on the surrounding terrace, the floor has been laid with white, red and pink stones, and studded with delicate mosaic renderings of seashells, starfish and leaping dolphins. (If you take a boat down to the bay, you may even spot a real one frolicking in the sea.)

Meanwhile, in place of neutral umbrellas and recliners, there are now bright terracotta-colored sun shades and cushioned, sea green and white striped seating with candy floss pink piping. At the height of summer, when the main terrace becomes crowded with honeymooning couples, it’s worth climbing up the maze of stone steps, as tiny lizards dart across your path, to find one of these sumptuous loungers hidden on one of the rocky outcrops—these offer more space to spread out, more seclusion, and as you go higher, the view only gets better.

The warmth that permeates this space, and the chosen color palette which blends seamlessly with its setting, extends to the Splendido Grill beside it, too. Stylish and refined but with the homeliness of a trattoria, it now has a retractable striped terracotta and acorn green sunroof, the same red-flecked gravel floors as the pool area, and Murano glass pendant lights that glow as rosy sunsets slowly give way to dusk. Tucked into the timber-topped, cloth-covered tables are Bonacina rattan chairs with pistachio-green cushions with coral piping, while the fine bone china is hand painted with undulating waves and perched birds. Brudnizki also recommends sticking your head under the table. “There’s some cast iron foot detailing which I love,” he says. “It’s designed to resemble a floral bouquet.”

This attention to detail extends to the bar, which is decorated with hand-painted green and white tiles in the style of the region’s traditional Albissola ceramics, mirroring those found in many of the guest rooms. Behind it is a large, in-built pizza oven that rolls out Ligurian-style pies loaded with olives, codfish, lemon, and thyme. Digging into one is mandatory during your stay, though the other riffs on regional specialties are equally tempting: pesto-filled tortellini; fresh octopus drizzled with lemon and olive oil; and a refreshing Condigiun salad with tomatoes, peppers, and basil mopped up with abundant focaccia.

But, despite the luxuriousness of these shared spaces and their impressive offerings, nothing compares to the new Baronessa Suite. “We imagined it to be like the drawing room of a well-traveled Italian aristocrat,” notes Brudnizki. “It exudes a sense of history and culture, and we designed it as a distinctly feminine space with touches of pink, floral motifs, and traditional lace.” You enter through a hallway with a baroque gold mirror flanked by shell-shaped wall lights carved from timber. “These are one of my favorite details,” adds Brudnizki. “They’re by Bartolozzi e Maioli in Florence, a family-run business from 1938. They shared their incredible knowledge and skills with us, and were absolutely fascinating to work with.”

Beyond it is a grand sitting room, with graniglia alla Genovese floors—a northern Italian blend of mosaic and terrazzo—layered with a cream-colored rug featuring roses and intertwined vines. Everything feels connected: there’s a through line from this to the real vines that cover the columns and railings of the private terrace, just outside; the hand-painted vines that decorate the ceiling and panels above the door; the delicate little roses that adorn the ceramic chandelier; the floral cushions scattered on the cloud-like pink sofa; the framed illustrations of local flowers above it; the leaf motifs on the coral lampshade; and the marble-topped tables with carved wooden stems that resemble vine-lined tree trunks. The intricate lace curtains, meanwhile, mirror the lace that covers an ornate rose and pistachio-hued cabinet.

Through an atmospheric dressing area with lantern-like lamps and a set of pale pink wardrobes adorned with yet more vines and flowers, you come to the supremely dramatic bathroom with its graniglia alla Genovese bath and a mosaic wall bearing seashells and a giant bouquet of roses. On either side of it are two pale green and white terrazzo sinks with hand-painted drawers and ceramic trays filled with Acqua di Parma toiletries, and in one corner a gigantic tiled rainfall shower.

Past it is the bedroom, a symphony of pastels and gold detailing that is perhaps best described as Marie Antoinette meets The Grand Budapest Hotel by way of The White Lotus: rich, fabric-covered pink walls; an antique chaise longue reupholstered in lemon yellow fabric; antique painted bedside tables topped with Albissola lamps; and an elaborate king-size bed. The latter features a timber headboard, carved to resemble unfurling agapanthus leaves, as well as a traditional midollino weave and gently faded Lampasso fabric, sourced from a workshop just a 20-minute drive away.

Combined, these elements could easily look overwrought or fussy, but offset with crisp white bed linens and a few quietly modern touches—a sleek gold reading light, a pared back dressing table, a cushioned chair with scalloped edges—it all feels remarkably fresh. Also adding to the sense of airiness is the fact that this room has the most natural light—and most astounding views—of the suite, given it overlooks both the extended terrace, with its terracotta floors, sun lounger, rattan sofa, and intimate dining area, and an entirely separate private garden which offers direct access to the pool.

At first glance, the Baronessa Suite is magnificent to say the least, but the true value of Brudnizki’s work can only be appreciated by staying there. Without disturbing the historical integrity of its rooms, the designer has incorporated a range of technological advancements into the space that are either invisible or tucked out of sight and, when discovered, a thrilling surprise. The lighting changes seamlessly according to the time of day, for instance, and enhanced sound insulation means that you can hear a pin drop, even though the bustling Splendido Grill is just below the terrace. Inside the drawers of the antique bedside tables are integrated lighting controls and charging points, while the aforementioned lace-covered cabinet in the living room contains a marble-topped minibar complete with a Nespresso machine, wine rack, fridge, and drawers stuffed full of traditional Italian snacks.

Ensuring that the hotel’s remaining suites and communal spaces are equally intuitive and striking is a top priority for Brudnizki as the redesign continues, as is “not alienating those who adore Splendido and come here regularly”. After all, this is a property with a fiercely loyal following, frequented by guests who have booked the same rooms for decades, request their furniture be moved to their exact specifications, and know the piano player at the La Terrazza bar by name. But, with Brudnizki’s sensitive and eagle-eyed approach, they seem poised to fall even further in love with the hotel, just as a new set of design obsessives discover it for the first time.

Room rates at Splendido, A Belmond Hotel, Portofino start at €2,300 per night based on double occupancy and €11,000 per night for the Baronessa Suite.