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With the coronavirus pandemic closing international borders and raising safety concerns over air travel, 2020 will be the summer of the domestic road trip. And, according to Google, one place in particular is worth the drive.
The search engine says that Glacier National Park in Montana was the top-searched road trip destination for the month of May. It’s not hard to see why: with its fields of alpine wildflowers, snow-capped Rocky Mountain peaks, and crystalline lakes so clear you can see pebbles stretch to the horizon, Glacier is a sublime destination. (So much so, in fact, that a number of car commercials have been filmed on its winding, scenic roads. As well as, uh, the intro to The Shining. But the former is much more pleasant to think about!) And although it attracts three million visitors each year, it is far less crowded than outdoor hotspots like Zion, Yosemite, or Yellowstone. (The park began to reopen for recreational activities on June 8.)
Convinced to give it a go? Below, see Vogue’s guide to Glacier National Park, including where to stay and what to do—just make sure to check their website for the latest updates on reopenings and restrictions.
Where to Stay
Glacier National Park is dotted with historic lodges: chief among them, Lake McDonald Lodge and Many Glacier Hotel. Both open starting July 1.
Open since 1913, Lake McDonald Lodge is built in the style of a Swiss mountain chalet: gabled roof, wooden balconies, white ornamental trimmings. Inside, a grand room with vaulted timber beams and mounted game awaits—but you’ll be too distracted by the great outdoors: as the name implies, the hotel sits on the park’s biggest lake, which fills a basin carved by Ice Age glaciers. The rustic property’s cabins are perfect for families with children.
The Many Glacier Hotel is an old-school icon: built by the Great Northern Railway, there are no televisions or air conditioning, (Although don’t fret: even in August, the average high temperature is 70 degrees.) Rooms are comfortable, but basic. Yet its lakeside views and snow-capped mountain surroundings won’t leave you wanting much.
Seeking a more modern, boutique experience? Outside the park’s boundaries, in the town of Whitefish, Montana, is The Firebrand. Fireplaces and leather chairs with faux-fur throws abound, and the location can’t be beat: you’re in walking distance of the towns many mom-and-pop shops, art galleries, and specialty stores.
Then there’s Airbnb: although you can’t stay inside Glacier (because, well, it’s a national park), there are stunning cabins, ranches, and expansive retreats in the expansive forests outsides its grounds. Kayak, stand-up paddle-board, and fish from this stunning home with private lake access, or try out this tiny house in Kalispell.
What to Do
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Hike everywhere and anywhere—Glacier has over 700 miles of trails across its one million acres. With a reach this vast, where you hike truly depends what region you’re in: rather helpfully, the National Park Service lists hikes by region—Lake McDonald, Many Glacier, North Fork, St. Mary, and Two Medicine—on its website.
For those in the Many Glacier area, hike to Hidden Lake. The way is paved with yellow glacier lilies and mountain goats. Its stunning final destination, an azure lake framed by evergreens descending an arrowhead mountain, is nature at its finest—and, if you’re lucky like this writer was, you may even see a moose and its calf.
Afterwards, cool off by renting a canoe, kayak, or hand-crafted rowboat with Glacier Park Boat Rentals. They’re easy to find: the company has boat docks at Lake McDonald, Many Glacier, Apgar, and Two Medicine waterfronts. But make sure you check before you go: as of now, the company is closed, but may “re-evaulate their decision.”
Traverse Glacier’s grand passes via vehicle by cruising down the 50 mile “Going-to-the-Sun” Road. It takes two hours without stopping, which is essentially a meaningless statement because you’re bound to make stops. Look for wildlife at the fields beyond Logan Pass, gaze upon Clements Mountain, bask in the wonder of Bird Woman Falls, and hold on to dear life when making those hairpin turns.
But it’s not just adrenaline-filled activities that are the draw of Glacier. In lodges, at campgrounds, and in visitor centers, members of Blackfeet, Salish, Kootenai, and Pend d'Oreille tribes give talks about Native American history and culture. Attending one of the "Native America Speaks" sessions is powerful, educational, and helps visitors truly understand the meaning of the land they currently stand on. The park is still working on their schedule for the summer of 2020.
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If you need to take a break from nature, the neighboring town of Whitefish is chock full of Western charm and cool artisan shops. For the kids, a visit to Imagination Station—a vintage toy store—followed by a scoop from Sweet Peaks is a must.
Wondering what to bring? View our packing list, below:
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