A Study Into Schiaparelli

 

Elsa Schiaparelli established her important couture house in Paris in 1927. Known for her unapologetic, bold spirit, Schiaparelli lived a very tumultuous life. After leaving home, Schiaparelli studied Philosophy at the University of Rome, which, in part, was due to her parent’s influence. She didn’t enjoy this and went on to publish a collection of erotic poems titled, “Arethusa” which angered her parents greatly. She was consequently sent to a Swiss convent as a punishment. She was allowed to return home after some time but ended up running away from her upper-class family to flee an arranged marriage, moving to the U.S. to work as a translator. After having translated for some time, she went to Paris in the 1920s and opened her couture house. By 1935, Schiaparelli had an impressive reputation and was considered a trailblazer of the time in regards to couture, perfume, cosmetics, lingerie, and more. During WWII, Schiaparelli ran to New York where she opened a branch and began mass-producing her designs. To provide more insight into the profound impact that Elsa Schiaparelli has had in fashion design, I want to explore specific moments in her career which led the house to its esteemed position today.

During the 1920s, Schiaparelli was setting up the image, ethos, and principles behind the house. In 1927, she created her first hand-knit pullover which was an immediate success (perhaps due to the surrealist trompe-l’œil, or three-dimensional illusion, motif around the neck of the pullover). This trompe-l’œil motif later became so popular that when garments were featured in publications, Schiaparelli’s name was not even mentioned due to its global recognition.  It was in 1928 that Schiaparelli then launched her first signature perfume scent, “S''. It was also around this time that Schiaparelli also introduced the first visible, functional zips into couture designs.

 By the 1930s, the house had eight ateliers with over 400 employees. Schiaparelli also created the “mad cap” during the 30s which was yet another worldwide success. The “mad cap” was a knitted tube that would take any shape the wearer wanted, and thus was very versatile leading to its large success. This was shortly followed by the first accessories inspired by surrealism and artists such as Dada and Dalí. Schiaparelli was an avid fan of surrealist art and went on to collaborate with Dalí in the creation of a powder compact made in the shape of a phone dial. The two also collaborated in designing coats and suits with bureau-drawer pockets.

the Art Deco Rotary Telephone Dial Powder Compact designed by Salvador Dalí and Elsa Schiaparelli made in France circa 1935

the Art Deco Rotary Telephone Dial Powder Compact designed by Salvador Dalí and Elsa Schiaparelli made in France circa 1935

In the 1940s, Schiaparelli introduced the first mermaid silhouette into Haute Couture and went on to further experiment with evening-wear silhouettes. For example, the “Forbidden Fruit” is an evening dress that uses underwear in trompe-l’œil with a heavily embroidered bra seeming to appear out of a strapless dress. Schiaparelli went on to further experiment with dress designs and created the first Tuxedo dress in Haute Couture which included diagonal buttoning detailing and further exploration between contrasting hard and soft fabrics. Unfortunately, the house suffered post-war and was shut down in 1954, but Italian businessman, Diego Della Valle, acquired the brand in 2007. Despite this, it was not until 2013 when Marco Zanini was appointed as the Creative Director of the house that it became public knowledge that Schiaparelli had been revived. In 2014, the house presented its Haute Couture collection during Paris Fashion Week for the first time since 1954. 

Currently, Schiaparelli has been gaining more and more publicity thanks to the work of Daniel Roseberry as their current creative director. In addition, large influencers such as Kim Kardashian and Lady Gaga have been seen sporting garments from the house. Most memorable is perhaps the custom-made gown Kim Kardashian wore at Christmas which went viral on Twitter when people linked the design to The Hulk or the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles. 

Schiaparelli, despite having lay dormant for many years, proves itself to be a timeless couture house thanks to Roseberry’s ability to link the traditions of the house with contemporary culture. Writing on his appointment in an Instagram post, Roseberry said:

Schiaparelli was a master of the modern; her work reflected the chaos and hope of the turbulent era in which she lived. Today, we find ourselves asking similarly big, identity-shaping questions of our own: What does art look like? What is identity? How do we dress for the end of the world?

Schiaparelli answered these questions with candor and humor, but one of her greatest legacies may be her commitment to fantasy, her understanding that we need fantasy in complicated times. I want to offer my own answers to these questions, and offer a fantasy—a dream—that feels relevant, and necessary, for today.

It’s clear that with Roseberry as the creative director, Schiaparelli will continue to grow and flourish and I’m so excited to see what is next for the house.

 
Sophie Richardsonbatch 3