“Brighton — never normal”. The tourist board’s recent marketing campaign (you’ll see its slogan everywhere), beautifully encapsulates this loveable seaside city. Where else would you spot a skateboarding Jack Russell, or a bearded young man in a tartan mini and fishnets? What other seaside city has an old gent tinkling away at his purple-painted piano on the beach? However unusual the look, nobody bats an eyelid here — and even the annual naked bike ride raises a cheer rather than a sneer.
But be warned, Brighton’s anything-goes vibe is catching. This became very apparent in the early years of my move to the city. I had a doctor’s appointment and was running late, so off I popped to the surgery, hair dripping wet, a mug of tea in one hand, slippers on my feet, and the cat following in my wake. Did anyone stare? Nope, not one bit.
Naturally, Brighton’s colourful past paved the way for its present offbeat ethos. The Prince Regent built his seaside party pad, the crazily extravagant Indo-Chinese Royal Pavilion, slap in the city centre; then came the Victorian sea bathers testing the waves in their bloomers in the hope of a health cure — and fast-forward to all those second-homer theatre luvvies snuffling G&Ts on the Brighton Belle as they drifted back to base. Even Graham Greene’s depiction of the city’s dodgy underworld in Brighton Rock still resonates.
So if you fancy a taste of Brighton’s capricious charms, ditch the car (most of the city is walkable), catch the train and get exploring.
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What to do
Brighton is packed with things to do. Just downhill from the station is the most boho neighbourhood: North Laine. Spend time mooching among its indie shops, including Snoopers Paradise flea market in Kensington Gardens. North Laine is the city’s hipster and hippy hangout: an amiable melding of Scandi-cool cafés and patchouli-fragranced trinket stalls — you’re bound to end up bagging a souvenir or two.
You’re now super-close to the Royal Pavilion. Topping the bill is its outrageously camp, dragon-festooned music room. Equally dazzling is the dining room, and children will love the kitchens, with plaster casts of hams, chickens and vegetables. Top tip: if it’s sunny, stop for an alfresco coffee at the Pavilion Gardens café. Very much a locals’ favourite, it’s a great people-watching spot. Just make sure the seagulls don’t nab your cake.
In the mood for sea air? In recent years Brighton beach has upped its game, ditching conventional seaside attractions for a hip enclave of buzzy cocktail bars, live music and mobile horsebox saunas on the pebbles, alongside snoop-worthy shops and galleries. That said, Brighton Palace Pier is fabulously fun and, for families, dovetails well with a visit to Sea Life Brighton* — the UK’s oldest aquarium. For a bird’s-eye view of the city venture up Brighton’s vertical pier. The British Airways i360* rises 138m above the burnt-out West Pier, and on a fine day you might spot the Isle of Wight.
Time now for an amble among the antiques shops and jewellers in the Lanes. Once the old fishing quarter, this warren of narrow alleyways is best discovered on a guided tour. Only in Brighton has a Blue Badge Secrets of the Lanes Walking Tour, during which you’ll get the scoop on its history.
After that you’re ten minutes’ stroll from villagey Kemp Town, where glorious Regency crescents mix with gay bars, flea markets and lively pubs. The beach scene here is a quieter alternative in summer months — you could even check out its nudist stretch if you’re feeling bold.
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Consider a hike at Devil’s Dyke if you’re in town for a few days. Part of the South Downs National Park*, it’s the UK’s deepest and longest dry valley, and in spring months the neighbouring woodland is awash with bluebells. Catch the open-air double-decker bus up there.
Where to stay
Not surprisingly, Brighton has more than a sprinkling of eccentrically kitted out hotels — we’re talking the kitsch rock’n’roll themed rooms of Hotel Pelirocco*, or Kemp Town’s Snooze*, a B&B rammed with retro knick-knacks. That said, there are Brighton hotels to suit every taste: from upmarket boutique hotels and chic B&Bs, to budget chains and impressively stylish hostels.
Inevitably, the urge will be to book a sea-facing establishment, and presiding over the clutch of hotels along the front is the city’s freshly refurbished grande dame, the Grand*. One important point to bear in mind, however, is the noise factor. Brighton’s beach backs on to a very busy road, so if that’s an issue, check your hotel has double glazing.
Kemp Town offers a broad range of boutique hotels alongside dozens of smart, affordable B&Bs — my recommendation is Drakes*, a supremely elegant art deco styled boutique hotel spanning two Georgian townhouses just minutes from Brighton pier. Walking to the city centre from here takes ten minutes max, and you avoid all those late-night revellers disturbing your sleep.
If you prefer the city centre, Regency Square has two peachy boutique hotels: stylishly boho Artist Residence*, and Hotel Una*. Both have side views of the sea, the West Pier and British Airways i360. A couple of steps from the station is the Ibis — sure, it’s a chain, but this one is surprisingly snazzy and offers attractive late-booking rates.
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On the independent front, alongside some good Airbnbs (my vote goes to Trafalgar Cottage in North Laine) you’ll find some excellent home rentals for a short stay. I recommend Mrs Butler Brighton*, close to Hove seafront and with sea views from its balcony.
One factor to consider: parking in Brighton is nightmarish. Few hotels have garaging, but many can offer affordable daily residential parking vouchers if, of course, you can find a space. Yet another reason to come by train.
Food and drink
When I first moved to Brighton there was an absolute dearth of decent restaurants. You either opted for dodgy Chinese, OK burgers, or so-so fish’n’chips. Thankfully, all that has changed and the city now almost rivals London for peerless restaurants, with some run by award-winning chefs. I’m talking Michael Bremner’s 64 Degrees, and its sister restaurant, Murmur, alongside ex-Fat Duck Duncan Ray’s Little Fish Market in Hove — a tiny establishment serving precision-cooked set menus with, naturally, a strong seafood theme.
Talking of which, there are surprisingly few decent fish restaurants in Brighton — although the beach-facing Salt Room is generally pretty good, and in decent weather its terrace is a big draw.
Vegetarians and vegans won’t have any problem tracking down decent food. There are excellent vegan cafés on the seafront, and award-winning Terre à Terre just east of the Lanes offers supremely inventive set menus and sharing plates. You’ll quickly discover that many of Brighton’s newest establishments favour small sharing plates and sustainable, low-mileage cooking — all a big plus.
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You’ll find fabulously hip independent coffee bars as well as bistros in North Laine; or if it’s tea you’re after, the Grand serves afternoon teas with all the trimmings.
The formerly sedate neighbourhood of Hove now has a clutch of excellent restaurants and wine bars along New Church Road. Try Etch, run by the MasterChef winner Steven Edwards. For a good Sunday roast check out Hotel du Vin*, the Ginger Pig in Hove, or the Sussex Yeoman pub near the station.
Drink — ah drinking… something Brightonians manage very well. You’re spoilt for choice for atmospheric pubs: everything from camp hideaways to gastropubs and drinking dens with live music. North Laine is a good starting point. Likewise, the city majors on cool cocktail bars, with Kemp Town winning hands down for choice.
Need food on the run? On Fridays there’s the brilliant Street Diner, a street food set-up in Brighthelm Gardens, just south of the station.
Don’t miss
How about a brisk walk westwards along the seafront? The beach scene around Hove Lawns is an altogether quieter affair and enjoyable in all seasons. Join the queue at Marrocco’s ice cream parlour, and while you’re waiting have a sly peek at David Gilmour’s swish new seafront home next door.
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Further west brings you to Millionaire’s Row, former home of Paul McCartney, Adele and Fatboy Slim. This enclave of white hacienda-style houses has its own private beach, and you can only take a gawp at the exterior. Near here is Hove’s cool new Rockwater, offering a mix of cocktails, snacky food and yoga lessons on the pebbles. In high season it does get rammed with rowdy out-of-towners, and the service is somewhat haphazard. That said, its rooftop bar is a great spot for sunsets.
Talking of the beach, head down to both piers at sunset and you’ll catch the murmuration of starlings swirling like black speckled clouds over the sea. And if you’re feeling sporty, Brighton has an active marine sports scene — everything from stand-up paddleboards and kayaks, to boat rides along the coast. Alternatively, rent one of the city’s turquoise bikes and ride the prom all the way to the Marina.
If it’s raining and you have children in tow, Brighton Toy and Model Museum is a must. It’s a dinky little set-up just beneath the station stuffed with vintage penny arcades, antique model trains running on a push-button operated 1930s track, as well as retro Meccano and old-fashioned dolls.
North Laine’s newest attraction is Paradox Place — a fantastic house of illusion, and we’re not talking wonky mirrors. Helpful staff are on hand to take photos and I won’t spoil the surprise by revealing more — just go there and be amazed.
Know before you go
Brighton is just under an hour by train from London. It’s a relatively safe city, but West Street on a Saturday night, packed with drunken hens and stags, does get pretty dire. Taxis are relatively affordable (the station rank is at the back of the station), and buses run throughout the city. Get a day pass for cheaper rates.
Take me there
Inspired to visit Brighton but yet to book your trip? Here are the best hotels from Booking.com* and Hotels.com*.
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