England’s loveliest little city is finally complete

Standing like a beacon on Wiltshire’s plains, Salisbury Cathedral supports Britain’s tallest spire. The 13th-century building is a fine example of English Gothic architecture and impresses all who see it (including, infamously, a pair of Russian spies). But it is about to become a great deal lovelier. In November, the cathedral sheds the last of the scaffolding that has kept it partially hidden from view for a remarkable 37 years.

The spire was the original focus for masons who were asked to replace its eroded stones in 1986. During this period, workers enjoyed the rare chance to inspect hand-cut stones from the higher levels. They found Victorian graffiti as well as oyster shells that, after their contents had possibly been devoured for lunch, were used to fill gaps between the bricks. Those recently carved include one with a Spitfire on it, in reference to the planes that were secretly built in Salisbury. 

Now the restoration project is complete, the stones will again become unreachable. When the last scaffolding boards are removed, light will flood back through the Prisoners of Conscience window and visitors will see the cathedral returned to its full glory.

It’s a boon to the whole city, one of England’s loveliest: quiet, with riverside walks and many timber-framed buildings on its medieval streets. 

Don’t rush straight to the cathedral when exploring, but pop first into the church of St Thomas Becket. Beneath beautiful wooden ceiling panels is a well-preserved 15th-century Doom painting, showing heaven and the serpents of hell.

The city’s Cathedral Close is encased in stone walls. Head through the High Street Gate and a stately expanse of lawn opens up before you, lined with splendid houses once used by the clergy. Overlooking Chorister’s Green, Mompesson House is an 18th-century townhouse, with period furniture and a walled garden. The buildings on West Walk, just around the corner, are also appealing. 

The Rifles Berkshire and Wiltshire Museum is housed in the former bishop’s store and its exhibits concern infantry soldiers through the ages. With exquisite proportions, Arundells is further along. Once the home of Sir Edward Heath, it contains paintings from Winston Churchill along with other memorabilia. The Salisbury Museum is on the same side, with displays about archaeology and finds from the Stonehenge area. 

Cross the road to step onto the grass and admire the cathedral’s west face. Inside, the building is a symphony of colourful stained glass, ribbed vaults and pointed arches. Tower tours last for 90 minutes. At ground level, see how the cathedral’s central marble pillars are bent slightly under the weight of the spire and note the reflections in the water of William Pye’s contemporary font. The cathedral also contains the world’s oldest working mechanical clock, while in the chapter house lies one of four original Magna Carta documents.

For lunch, head to another of Salisbury’s attractive public spaces, the vast Market Place. The paving stones here have hosted a market since 1227 and it is flanked by timbered buildings. Most restaurants have tables spilling out onto the square, creating a thriving cafe culture. 

For sourdough pizza there’s Nole, on Ox Row. The Pickled Frog serves tapas from a cutesy building with a vaulted roof opposite The Guildhall.

Alternatively, combine lunch with some light shopping and head away from the historic centre, past the clock tower and along Fisherton Street. Fisherton Warehouse offers coffee and antiques; Seventies and Eighties apparel is found at Foxtrot Vintage Clothing. A few doors down, Fisherton Mill and Gallery has a leafy courtyard cafe and sells handcrafted gifts. 

Walk off lunch with a stroll along the Town Path across Salisbury’s water meadows, scored with man-made channels and which inspired Constable’s paintings. The Old Mill pub is the spot for waterside refreshments. Return along the path and the cathedral’s spire soars above the trees.

For dinner, Allium, occupying an upstairs room above Market Place, is an excellent choice, with a super wine list and high-quality sharing dishes. On a bank of the Avon where the water is flush with green fronds, The Bishops Mill has a beer garden for an evening drink. Just a few steps away, Sips offers craft beer and ale. 

Don’t miss the city’s oldest pubs either, especially the Haunch of Venison, a wood-panelled chop house that dates to around 1320. Look out for the mummified hand, which reputedly belonged to an 18th-century card player. Alternatively, Caboose, near the station, has a 1920s-style parlour for afternoon tea and cocktails at weekends.

Once you’ve had your fill of history in the city centre, you can trace human habitation back to an iron age hill fort a couple of miles north of the city. A Roman settlement once flourished at Old Sarum and you can see the foundations of Salisbury’s original, Norman cathedral, abandoned when the other was built. Climb the ramparts for views across the plains and it’s hard to imagine that Salisbury might have grown up here instead of in the valley below, tucked between the clear chalk streams of the Avon and its sparkling tributaries.

Where to stay

Overlooking St Ann’s Gate, The Chapter House is a smart, traditional inn with a restaurant, bar and bedrooms decorated in a contemporary country style. Doubles from £145 a night.

On the city outskirts, Wilton is a pretty town with a history of textiles, some interesting buildings, and a fine hotel: The Pembroke Arms, with a large garden, good food and comfortable rooms. Doubles from £120 a night.