How To Grow And Care For Lenten Roses And Other Hellebores

Lenten roses get their ecclesiastical nickname from when they flower. The blooming begins in winter and extends into spring, surrounding the season of Lent (the 40-day season that many Christians observe before Easter). While the long-lived plants add color to the garden for several months, they're also appreciated for their attractive evergreen foliage. Each leaf consists of a long leafstalk ending in large, leathery leaflets grouped together like fingers on an outstretched hand. Contrary to what their common name might have led you to believe, Lenten roses are actually species of Helleborus in the buttercup family—they're most assuredly not roses.

All hellebores form tight clumps, but species differ in their manner of growth. Some have stems that rise from the ground with leaves all along their length; stems produce flowers at their tips in their second year, then die to the ground as new stems emerge to replace them. In other species, leaves arise directly from ground level, while separate (typically leafless) flower stems spring from the same points.

Flowers are usually cup or bell-shaped (those of H. niger are saucer-shaped), sometimes facing outward but more often nodding gently downward. They consist of a ring of petal-like sepals ranging in color from white and green through pink and red to deep purple (rarely yellow). Flowers of all hellebores persist a long time, often turning pinker as they age. And the blossoms are attractive in arrangements. After you cut them, slice the bottom inch of the stems lengthwise or seal the ends by searing over a flame or immersing in boiling water for a few seconds. Then place in cold water. Or simply float flowers in a bowl of water.

Hellebores are highly toxic to humans and pets, and can also cause skin irritation. Assuming that is not a concern for your home, these mostly trouble-free plants add much-needed cheer to the garden during the winter months.

Hellebore Care

Most hellebores are native to Europe, where they grow on mountain slopes, in open woodlands or scrubland, and in meadows. They prefer to be planted in similar soil in the home garden: organically rich, well-drained, and neutral or alkaline. Many species are adapted to drier summers, but benefit from watering during long, hot dry spells. Site them in good conditions and these low-maintenance plants should delight you for years to come. Many mature plants can produce up to 50 blossoms.

Light

Hellebores thrive in partial shade (with four or fewer hours of direct sunlight per day) or in light, dappled sun all day. You can also plant hellebores in a spot that is moderately shady in summer but receives more sun in winter when the trees lose their leaves. Hellebores do well at the edge of a woodland garden with other shade-loving perennials, such as ferns, hostas, gingers, foamflowers, and toad lilies.

Soil

Plant in small groups (three to five plants together), spacing plant groups about 18 to 24 inches apart in good, well-drained soil amended with plenty of organic matter. Hellebore plants prefer loamy soil that is somewhat alkaline but will also grow well in neutral to slightly acidic conditions (H. niger is an exception; it must have alkaline soil). Be sure not to plant too deep—the crown of the plant should not be buried. Hellebores do not like soggy or heavy soil.

Water

Water new plants once a week or frequently enough to keep the soil lightly moist until established. Hellebores are more tolerant of dry soil once they are established, as long as they are growing in a protected area in rich, loamy soil. You may need to supplement with watering in the heat of summer—a telltale sign is when the stems start to droop. Water deeply during those periods of dry heat.

Temperature And Humidity

Most hellebores can be grown in USDA Plant Hardiness Zones 5-8, which covers the Upper, Middle, and Lower South. A few species can be planted in Zone 9 in northern Florida and along the Gulf Coast, like H. foetidus, H. lividus, and various hybrids. Some varieties have been bred to survive in Zones 3 or 4 as well, which means you can find a hellebore that will grow almost anywhere in the U.S. except for the Tropical South. Overly wet and rainy conditions can cause fungal problems.

Fertilizer

If the soil is too acidic (pH 6.0 or lower), sprinkle a little lime over the soil surface once a year. It's also recommended to sprinkle a balanced slow-release fertilizer, such as Osmocote 14-14-14, once a year in early spring.

Types Of Hellebores

Corsican Hellebore (H. argutifolius)

• Blue-green, six to nine-inch leaves divided into three sharply toothed leaflets. Leafy stems carry clusters of two-inch pale green flowers from late winter into spring.
• More sun tolerant than other hellebores.
• Zones MS, LS; USDA 6-8

Lenten Rose / Hybrid Hellebore (H. x ballardiae)

• This cross between H. niger and H. lividus features outward-facing blooms on deep red stems. Varieties include 'Cinnamon Snow,' 'Pink Frost,' and 'Merlin.'
• Zones US, MS, LS; USDA 6-8

Snow Rose / Eric Smith's Hellebore (H. x ericsmithii)

• Hybrid of H. niger and H. x sternii. Features dark green, pale-veined leaves and large sprays of pale pink or white flowers, each up to four inches across. Blooms face out, not down.
• Varieties include 'Champion' and 'Monte Cristo.' Some crosses with H. x ericsmithii have been given a new species name, H. x glandorfensis, and labeled as Ice N' Roses Snow Rose.
  
• Zones US, MS, LS; USDA 5-8
  

Stinking Hellebore / Bearsfoot Hellebore (H. foetidus)

• Blooms from late winter to spring, bearing clusters of inch-wide light green flowers with purplish red edges. Leaves are slender and stinky when crushed or bruised.
• Zones US, MS, LS; USDA 6-9
• Self-sows freely where adapted

Hybrid Hellebore (H. x hybridus)

• These hybrids are usually the result of multiple crosses. They generally resemble principal parent H. orientalis, but flower color range has been extended and superior parents selected for seed production.
• Hybrid hellebores have the most variation in color and flower structure, with some varieties bearing double blooms or unusual colors from apricot to nearly black.
• Hardiness ranges from Zones 4-9, depending on variety.

Majorcan Hellebore (H. lividus)

• Leaves resemble those of H. argutifolius but have purplish undersides and silvery veins above. Bears clusters of pale rose to silvery green flowers.
• Zones MS, LS, CS; USDA 7-9
  

Christmas Rose (H. niger)

• Lustrous dark green leaves are divided into seven to nine lobes with a few large teeth; they seem to rise directly from the soil.
• White, two-inch flowers appear singly or in groups of two or three on a stout stem about the same height as the foliage clump. Blooms from December into spring, with petals turning pink with age.
• 'Winter Dreams' can be grown in USDA Zones 3-9, while 'Snowbells' can be grown in Zones 3-7.
  
• Christmas rose needs more shade than other hellebores and can suffer in harsh winter sun.

Lenten Rose (H. orientalis)

• Basal leaves with five to 11 sharply toothed leaflets; branched flowering stems to a foot tall, with leaf-like bracts at branching points.
• Blooms in late winter and spring; flowers are 24 inches wide, in colors including white, pink, purplish, cream, and greenish, often spotted with deep purple. Hybridizes freely with many other species; many nursery plants may be hybrids.
• Easier to transplant than other hellebores.
• Zones US, MS, LS; USDA 6-8

Stern's Hellebore (H. x sternii)

• Hybrid between H. argutifolius and H. lividus, with bluish green foliage netted with white or cream and greenish, one to two-inch flowers suffused with pink bloom from mid-winter to spring.
• Zones US, MS, LS; USDA 6-8
  

Green Hellebore (H. viridis)

• Graceful bright green leaves are divided into seven to 11 leaflets; leafy stems bear one to two-inch-wide flowers in pure green to yellowish green, sometimes with purple on the inside. Blooms from mid-winter into late spring.
• Zones US, MS, LS; USDA 6-9

Pruning

As hellebores are hardy and resilient plants, pruning won’t hurt them. Every winter, just before the flowers appear, give them a haircut. Remove all leaves that began growing the previous winter and spring. “When trimming anything, try to cut at a joint, which helps with growth and avoids any bare stems sticking out,” advises garden expert Mark Thompson. Compost healthy-looking leaves and throw out spotted, brown, or yellow leaves with the trash. Do not compost diseased leaves, as they will spread their infected spores. Cutting off the leaves won't reduce the vigor of the plants. They'll quickly sprout new leaves.

Propagating Hellebores

Don't disturb hellebores once planted unless you must; they resent moving and may take two or more years to re-establish. Lenten roses make a beautiful carpet-like ground cover that naturally expands as the seeds drop. “If the soil is tended to before planting [and is mostly free from roots], they will spread more easily,” says Thompson. “You can then dig up, move, and replant them as they grow.”

To propagate, you can divide large, established clumps in fall. If well-sited, hellebores may self-sow, and the young seedlings can be transplanted in early spring. This method is much easier than trying to grow them yourself from seed.

How To Grow Hellebores From Seed

Hellebore seeds are best sown when fresh, right after the pods mature and begin to open. But seeds take a long time to germinate, waiting until temperatures drop in late fall to sprout. Follow the steps below to grow hellebores from seed. (Before you try this, check which variety you are growing. Some hybrids are sterile and cannot produce seed, while others may be patent-protected.)

1. Fill small containers with a seed sowing mixture that includes compost.
2. Sow a few seeds on top of the mixture in each container and press gently to ensure contact. Sprinkle a thin, lightweight layer of soil or grit on top.
3. Water well and place pots in the shade. Continue to water as needed. Seeds may germinate very late in the year.
4. Repot seedlings into individual pots once they are large enough to handle. Keep the pots outdoors through winter and plant in spring.

Potting And Repotting Hellebores

Hellebores do best when planted in the garden, but you may want to pot the plants if you have heavy soil that drains poorly. Choose a container that has a drainage hole and is tall enough to accommodate a deep-rooting plant. The new container should be slightly wider than the existing one and filled with loamy, well-draining soil with plenty of compost mixed in. Plant the hellebore no deeper than it was planted in its original container.

Water so that the soil remains lightly moist, but don't let the pot sit in water in a saucer. Set the container in partial shade, with protection from the sun during hotter hours of the day, especially in summer. Repot every two years with fresh soil and compost.

Once a potted Lenten rose has finished its bloom cycle, move the container to a less prominent, more shady spot instead of replanting it in the ground. “As long as it can receive part sun and normal rainwater, it should survive from year to year,” says Thompson.

Common Pests & Plant Diseases

Deer, rabbits, and rodents won't damage hellebores. Aphids can sometimes bother the plants. These pale green, soft-bodied, sap-sucking insects can be sprayed off of plants with water or controlled with horticultural oil or insecticidal soap.

Black or brown spots on leaves are typically caused by a fungus. Remove infected leaves from the plant and on the ground and throw them away. Clean up fallen leaves around your hellebores each autumn to reduce the spread of disease.

If blackened areas look streaky or cover leaves in a netted pattern, the situation is more serious. Your hellebore may be infected with Helleborus net necrosis virus, also known as black death. Other signs include black spots on flowers and stunted growth. Plants with this virus should be thrown in the trash, along with any debris from the plant.

How To Get Hellebores To Bloom

Plants grown in optimal conditions should bloom in winter or spring without problem. Here are a few things to check when your hellebores don't bloom as expected:

• Recent transplants can take a year or two to settle in before blooming.
• Burying the crown of a hellebore can interfere with blooming. Remove leaf debris from the crown, or raise the plant slightly if needed.
• Some hellebores need a little more sun to bloom, especially during the time of year they are actively growing and setting buds. (Too much sun can also be a problem if the plants are drying out or burning in the winter sun.)
• If your garden soil is poor in nutrients, side dress plants with compost and fertilize in early spring. You can also try fertilizing again in the fall to encourage next year's bloom.