Last Updated on 15th March 2024 by Charlotte
Plucked straight out of a French fairytale, Villefranche-sur-Mer is a smattering of brightly coloured houses and cobbled streets, opening out onto a deep harbour and the kind of crystal clear waters that the French Riviera is so famous for. Here’s your guide to the best things to do in Villefranche-sur-Mer, as well as what to know before you go.
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Introducing Villefranche-sur-Mer
Villefranche-sur-Mer looks like something straight out of a pastel hued dream. From the moment you step off the train at the town’s chocolate box train station, you’ll discover a delightful assortment of candy coloured houses, all grouped together in a haphazard way around a medieval church and azure-blue port.
If you want to discover all that Villefrance-sur-Mer has to offer, you’ll need to set aside around half a day, and longer if you plan to enter the museums, relax on the beach, and spend a leisurely lunch à la française.
I visited on an overcast day in late February and was blown away by the sheer beauty of this town of 5000 in the French region of Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur. Villefranche-sur-Mer has one of the deepest harbours along the French Riviera, meaning that there are almost always large ships passing by.
And while the Côte d-Azur is already famed for its temperate climate, Villefranche-sur-Mer is even milder than other towns in the region thanks to its enviable position protected by the high cliffs surrounding it and the narrowness of its harbour.
Thanks to its sheer beauty, the town has been used as a source of inspiration for many writers, artists, and musicians over the years. Indeed, Jean Cocteau once called Villefranche-sur-Mer “a source of myth and inspiration,” while the Rolling Stones Recorded their Exile on Mainstreet album there.
When wadnering the streets, it’s not hard to see why so many directors have chosen to film movies here. Notable ones you may have heard of include Alfred Hitchcock’s To Catch a Thief and Dirty Rotten Scoundrels.
As I sat in Place Amélie Pollonais, a square in the heart of town, I savoured an allongé (Americano- here’s my French coffee guide), read my book, and watched the pigeons cooed around the square, looking for leftover crumbs from previous diners. It was the most perfect moment, watching the world go by, with the azure blue sea in the distance.
How long do you need in Villefranche-sur-Mer?
As it’s pretty small, you can honestly see most of Villefranche-sur-Mer over the course of a couple of hours. However, if you wish to see all of the attractions, spend time relaxing in the square, and maybe even visiting the beach, you’ll want a full day to soak up all of this dreamy destination’s charms.
Best things to do in Villefranche-sur-Mer
Wander the old town
Truth be told, one of the greatest things to do in Villefranche-sur-Mer is to explore the maze of cobbled streets and colourful homes and allow the town to reveal itself to you. Almost every turn boasts an Instagram-worthy snap. Many buildings date all the way back to the Middle Ages, which only adds to the charm.
Rue Obscure
While wandering through town, you’ll likely come across Rue Obscure. This 13th-century tunnel goes under the houses in the heart of town and is dimly lit. Originally constructed in 1260 for military purposes, so as to allow soldiers to get easily through the town, today the tunnel is dimly lit and is roughly 430 foot long.
Church of St Michel
The imposing bell tower of the St Michel church dates back to the 18th-century and is a beautiful example of Baroque architecture. Free to visit and enter inside, it merits a closer look thanks to its intricately carved altar and beautifully painted ceilings.
Chapel of Saint Pierre
Located close to the water, the chapel of Saint Pierre is somewhat of a hidden gem of Villefranche-sur-Mer. Its ornate exterior was designed by artist Jean Cocteau (who lived in nearby Menton) and entrance inside costs €3. The chapel is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.
Citadel of Villefranche-sur-Mer (Saint Elme citadel)
One of the most imposing places to visit is the trapezoid-shaped citadel, which dates all the way back to the 16th-century and once protected the town from would-be invaders and marauders.
Over the years, the citadel has had many different functions, including as barracks by the Russians in the 1850s and as a US Naval Base between 1945 and 1962. Today the citadel is owned by the city and houses a museum dedicated to art and sculptures.
Villefranche-sur-Mer market (marché)
If you happen to be in town on a Wednesday or Sunday morning, then you can visit the twice weekly market, which takes place every Saturday morning on promenade de l’Octroi. There are a variety of delicious goodies for sale, including fresh fruits, vegetables, local cheeses, and even French butter.
Beach (Plage des Bains)
Unlike some of the more pebbled beaches elsewhere on the French Riviera, the Plage des Marinieres (Beach of the Sailors) is much sandier, making it easier to relax on. Just bring a towel and plenty of suncream as there isn’t much shade nearby.
The beach is absolutely enormous, and stretches quite far, meaning that it’s never too difficult to find a spot to sunbathe or relax, even during the busier months of the year.
Le Port Royal de la Darse (Royal Port)
Located directly below the citadel, the lovely Port Royal was once used to dock Royal ships and is now a quiet and peaceful spot in town where boats bob in the water and few tourist venture to. At the end of the port, there is a small red and white lighthouse.
Space Invader
One of the more surprising discoveries of a visit to Villefranche-sur-Mer is that it is actually where you can find some Space Invaders. If you’ve ever been to Paris, then no doubt you’ve probably spotted a fair amount of street art.
Well, one of the most prevalent artists in the city (who also covers plenty of other spots across the world) is that of Invader, an anonymous artist who is famed for his street side mosaics. In Paris, over 1400 of his works can be found in varying shapes and sizes.
From full sized mosaics that cover an entire block to smaller pieces the size of your hand that can only be spied by those with the most eagle of eyes, there’s even a Pokemon-style app called ‘Flash Invaders’ where you can take photos of the mosaics you find and keep a record of how many you’ve found. In The French Riviera, there are 40 Invaders to find, scattered along the coastline.
Walk to Saint Jean Cap Ferrat
If you are up for a bit of a walk, then it’s perfectly possible to walk all the way from Villefranche-sur-Mer to the next villages along, Beaulieu-sur-Mer and Saint Jean Cap Ferrat. For more detailed instructions for the walk, you can use Google maps or alternatively head to the tourist office for a larger map of the area.
How to visit Villefranche-sur-Mer
The easiest way to get to Villefranche-sur-Mer is to take a direct train from Nice-Ville if you’re staying in Nice (making it one of the best day trips from Nice) or by taking the train from Menton if your accommodation happens to be there.
Another option from Nice is to take the #100 from the Old Port of Nice. Tickets cost just a few euros and can be purchased directly from the driver. Just be sure to validate your ticket upon entry to the bus in the machine, otherwise you could be fined as your ticket won’t be seen as valid.
The train station is less than a ten minute walk from the centre of town and looks like something straight out of a movie and is a deep red hue that contrasts wonderfully with the azure blue ocean. Directly opposite the station is where the main beach of the town lies.
On the walk from the train station to the town, you’ll already be introduced to the candy hued tones that make up the most colourful town on the French Riviera. The pleasant walk is set alongside the water and takes under ten minutes.
The point is, there’s one single train line which runs up and down the French Riviera, serving numerous quaint towns and villages en route. If a charming seaside town with all the charm of a Wes Anderson film seems right up your street, then you can even plan to stay in Villefranche-sur-Mer for several days.
There is a tourist office on the fringes of the old town, the other side of Villefranche-sur-Mer from the train station. Open throughout the week, you can go in and get leaflets about activities in the surrounding area, as well as a handy walking map for Villefranche-sur-Mer itself.
Where to stay in Villefranche-sur-Mer
Those looking to get away from it all need to look no further than Villefranche-sur-Mer. The brightly coloured settlement is like something of a vivid dream and the smattering of cafés spilling out onto the street around town make for a quintessentially French getaway. Here are some of the best places to stay in Villefranche-sur-Mer:
Mid-range: This laid-back three-star hotel overlooks the Bay of Villefranche sur Mer and offers classic rooms with free Wi-Fi. There is air conditioning and a restaurant onsite. https://www.booking.com/hotel/fr/provencal.en.html?aid=1212495&no_rooms=1&group_adults=2Check prices and availability here.
Luxury: Situated right in the heart of town, this four-star hotel offers free Wi-Fi, a restaurant onsite, and bicycle hire for an extra fee. The hotel is enviably located close to a number of bars and cafés. Check prices and availability here.
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Sophie Nadeau loves dogs, books, travel, pizza, and history. A Francophile at heart, she runs solosophie.com when she’s not chasing after the next sunset shot or consuming something sweet. She splits her time between Paris and London and travels as much as she can! Subscribe to Sophie’s YouTube Channel.