Tri Magnum Manual

ROBERT Q.
RILEY ENTERPRISES
Tri-Magnum: Excitement on Three Wheels
 Copyright 1997 Robert Q. Riley Enterprises, LLC

P.O. Box 14465 • Phoenix • AZ 85063-4465
Email: rqriley@rqriley.com
Web: http://www.rqriley.com
T R I - M A G N U M : E X C I T E M E N T O N T H R E E W H E E L S
Table of Contents
Introduction 1 Body Construction 29
Prepare Chassis 29
Three Wheel Vehicle Dynamics 3 Plywood Bulkheads 30
Factors That Determine a Vehicle’s Exterior Foam Panels 31
Rollover Threshold 3 Build the Interior 35
Special Considerations of Three Wheel Wheel Wells 39
Vehicles 5 Front Bumper and Bumper Well 40
Effective Half-Tread and Center of Gravity Cooling Vents 41
Location 6 Rear Light Wells 42
Understeer and Oversteer 6 Canopy and Window Recesses 42
Low Polar Moment of Inertia 8 Final Detailing 45
Conclusions and Recommendations 9 Fiberglass the Exterior 46
Fiberglass Underneath 49
Remove Canopy 51
Substituting a Different Detail the Interior 54
Motorcycle 10 Canopy Fixtures 56
Motorcycle Drive Train Attributes 10 Headlight Assembly 59
Water Cooled versus Air Cooled 11 Engine Room Cover 60
A Reverse Gear 12 Finishing 63
Specifications 13 Final Assembly 66

Mate Body to Chassis 66
Materials List 14 Controls 66
Upholstery 68
Windows 72
Vendor List 16
Detailing the Vehicle 74
Chassis Construction 17 License & Operation 77

Prepare the Motorcycle 17 Obtaining a Title 77
Install Parallel Frame Members 18 Obtaining a License 77
Tripod Mast 20 Operation 78
Front Suspension 21
Install Front Suspension 23
Rear Suspension and Wheel 26
Brakes 27
Introduction
An overview of the information to follow.
T
his book provides step-by-step construction details, as well as tips on substituting
I N T H I S B O O K
a different motorcycle, technical information on three wheel vehicle dynamics,
Design information and guidelines on how to go about obtaining a license for your finished vehicle.
Motorcycle substitutions Carefully read the book and study the drawings before beginning construction.
Licensing a three-wheeler The prototype Tri-Magnum was built using a 1976 Kawasaki KZ900 motorcycle as a
Step-by-step instructions basis. If you would like to substitute a different motorcycle, please review the chapter
Where to get parts
entitled Substituting A Different Motorcycle. Those who wish to make changes in the design
should become familiar with the factors that influence the dynamic stability of three wheel
vehicles. For an overview of the primary factors that determine three wheel vehicle
stability, refer to the chapter entitled Three Wheel Vehicle Dynamics. The chapters entitled
Chassis Construction and Body Construction cover the actual construction of the vehicle. They
are written in the order in which Tri-Magnum is built. For operating tips and information
on how to obtain a license, see the chapter entitled License & Operation.
The cost to build Tri-Magnum can vary widely. Much depends on how prudently you
shop for components. Over the course of many purchases, there will be many
opportunities to go over budget. Your choice of accessories, tires and wheels for
example, can have a large impact on construction costs. Also, it’s a good idea to obtain
quotations from a number of local dealers before purchasing salvaged auto parts. We
checked several salvage yards for the VW front suspension used on the prototype. The
highest price quoted was twice that of the lowest price. The cost of steel is another large
variable. For short lengths of tubing and small sections of plate, find a supplier who will
let you look through their remnant pile. Most suppliers charge extra to cut a small piece
of material from a full-size piece. Often, the cutting charge can exceed the cost of the
material itself. And finally, if you have difficulty locating specialized components, check
out the suppliers listed in the Vendor List.
If you have questions about the construction of Tri-Magnum, please address your inquiry
to Robert Q. Riley Enterprises, not to the publication in which you may have seen the
vehicle. You’ll receive the quickest response by sending an email message. If you inquire
by mail, please include a stamped, self-addressed envelope. Due mainly to liability
implications, we cannot suggest modifications, nor comment on ideas you may have in
mind for changes of your own.
Great care was taken to prepare plans that will enable a builder to construct a safe and
proper operating vehicle. However, neither Robert Q. Riley Enterprises nor the
publishers of any periodical that may feature Tri-Magnum plans can assume any liability
for the safe and proper operation of any vehicle based on these plans.
1
2
Three Wheel Vehicle

Dynamics
An overview of the fundamental factors that affect three-wheel vehicle
handling.
A
lthough many excellent three-wheel designs have been developed, the majority
I N T H I S
of vehicles that have actually reached production have not been especially well
C H A P T E R engineered. As a result, three wheel vehicles have gained a reputation for poor
Rollover threshold handling and marginal stability. In reality, a three wheel vehicle can be just as
resistant to rollover as the majority of four wheel automobiles now on the roads.
Impact of cg location
Moreover, a well designed three-wheeler is likely to be one of the most responsive
Understeer and oversteer vehicles one will ever experience over a winding mountain road. But the three wheel
Basic design guidelines layout does have its own set of limitations and design imperatives that must be
considered. This chapter provides an overview of the primary factors that determine the
handling characteristics of three wheel vehicles. The information is necessarily presented
in abbreviated form. It is not intended to equip the layperson with the tools necessary to
correctly engineer a suspension system from scratch. Instead, it’s provided more for
guidance, and as a way of giving the reader a sense of how modifications to Tri-Magnum’s
design are likely to impact the vehicle’s handling characteristics and resistance to rollover.
Factors That Determine A Vehicle’s Rollover Threshold
Three-wheelers are criticized most often for their low margin of safety against rollover.
According to conventional wisdom, three wheel cars overturn more easily than four wheel
cars. It is undoubtedly true that in a side-by-side comparison of the world’s production
vehicles the ones having three wheels are more likely to overturn than those having four
wheels. But this need not be the case. A correctly designed three-wheeler can be just as
resistant to rollover as a four wheel vehicle. The dynamic factors that determine a three-
wheeler’s rollover threshold are identical to those that determine the rollover threshold of
four-wheel cars.
On the most fundamental level, resistance to rollover is determined by the relationship

between the vehicle’s half-tread (one half the tread), the height of its center-of-gravity
(cg), and the magnitude of the turn forces acting laterally across the vehicle’s cg. The
relationship between the half-tread and the height of the cg is typically called the “L/H
ratio,” or length-to-height ratio (see Figure 1.1). These attributes of the vehicle’s
geometry are the fundamental factors that determine the turn forces (lateral forces
resulting from the turn rate) that the vehicle can tolerate before overturning. If the
vehicle’s half tread (L) were equal to the height of its cg (H), then a one-g turn would put
the vehicle at its rollover threshold. The typical rollover threshold of various types of
production four wheel vehicles is shown in Table T1.1.
3
L/H Ratio Determines Rollover Threshold
Body Roll Moves CG Slightly to Outside

Striking Curb Causes
Sudden Increase in Roll Rate
and High Lateral Force
Across CG
H (Height of CG)
Roll Moment
CG
Lateral Force Across cg

Resulting from Turn Rate
and/or Tripping
Sliding Against
Curb Causes Tripping
Roll Center
CG Displacement
Reduces L/H Ratio
(Length of Half-Tread) L
Figure 1.1 From Alternative Cars in the 21st Century, by Robert Q. Riley (SAE 1994)
Comparison of Typical Rollover Threshold by Vehicle Type

Vehicle Type CG Height (inch) Tread (inch) Rollover Threshold (g)
Sports Car 18-20 50-60 1.2-1.7
Compact Car 20-23 50-60 1.1-1.5
Luxury Car 20-24 60-65 1.2-1.6
Pickup Truck 30-35 65-70 0.9-1.1
Passenger Van 30-40 65-70 0.8-1.1
Medium Truck 45-55 65-75 0.6-0.8
Heavy Truck 60-85 70-72 0.4-0.6
Table T 1.1 From Fundamentals of Vehicle Dynamics, by T. Gillespie (SAE 1992)
The next consideration is the adhesion limits of the tires. In a steady-state turn, the
magnitude of turn forces cannot exceed the ability of the tires to grip the road.
Consequently, if tires breakaway before the vehicle reaches its rollover threshold, then the
vehicle will slide before it overturns. If not, then the vehicle will overturn before it slides.
Conventional passenger car tires can rarely support turns loads in excess of one-g, and
most breakaway at loads on the order of 0.70-g to 0.80-g. But much depend on the
particular tires, how they are loaded, and the surface of the roadway.
The foregoing analysis, however, produces an accurate indication of a vehicle’s resistance

to rollover only when the vehicle is assumed to be quasi-stationary, and the body is
assumed to be rigidly connected to the axles. Under dynamic conditions a number of
other factors come into play. As the body rolls about its roll center in response to turn
forces, the lateral location of the vehicle’s cg typically moves to the outside of the turn,
which decreases the effective half tread. In addition, rolling, pitching, and rebound
4
movements produce additional forces of their own. During slalom turns (a hard turn in
one direction followed by an equally hard turn in the opposite direction), the body is
“thrown” from a high roll angle in one direction to a high roll angle in the opposite
direction. Such maneuvers can produce inertial and rebound forces that are great enough
to exceed the vehicle’s margin of safety against rollover, regardless of the number of
wheels. And even with a large margin of safety, a vehicle can still overturn when it slides
against a curb or some other fixed obstacle, which suddenly arrests its lateral motion.
A simple L/H ratio analysis therefore provides only an approximation of a vehicle’s

rollover threshold under real and variable conditions. If one were to use it to estimate the
actual rollover stability of a vehicle, an extra margin would have to be included to account
for dynamic forces. When production cars are engineered, these dynamic forces are
calculated and their effects are simulated on computer.
Special Considerations of Three Wheel Vehicles
The L/H ratio can also predict the rigid-body rollover threshold of a three wheel vehicle,
but the effects of braking and acceleration forces must also be considered. Braking and
acceleration produce forces that act across the vehicle’s cg in a longitudinal direction.
With four wheel vehicles, these longitudinal forces have little effect on the vehicle’s
rollover threshold. The opposite is true of three wheel vehicles. Braking in a turn tends
to reduce the margin of safety against rollover of a single front wheel vehicle, and
acceleration in a turn tends to reduce the margin of safety of a single rear wheel vehicle.
Normally, the margin of safety against rollover of a three wheel vehicle is determined by
constructing a base cone, as shown in Figure 2.1.
Base Cone Analysis for Three Wheel vehicles

SINGLE REAR WHEEL SINGLE FRONT WHEEL
Note Turn Direction

Assuming a one-g adhesion
limit for the tires, the FORWARD
combined forces of the

weight of the vehicle acting Turn Direction
downward and the Resultant of % Wheelbase

turn/braking/acceleration Braking Turn
Center of Gravity
forces acting laterally would Base Cone is
Established by
Resultant of
result in a cone that Wheelbase
Lateral Forces
In Turn
projects toward the ground Braking Turn Forces Wheelbase
plane at a 45-degree angle. CG (Center of Gravity)
The actual vector, however, Resultant of Lateral

Forces Establishes
Base Cone
would depend on the actual % Wheelbase
adhesion limits of the tires.
Ground Plane
CG Height (H)
Ground Plane
Effective Half-Tread (L)

Resultant of Lateral Forces CG Height (H) Effective Half-tread (L)
Margin of Safety
Margin of Safety Against Rollover
Against Rollover Resultant of Lateral Forces
Figure 2.1 From Alternative Cars in the 21st Century, by Robert Q. Riley (SAE 1994)
5
Since braking, acceleration, and turning forces are limited by the adhesion limits of the
tires, the friction coefficient of the tires may be used determine the vector of forces that
will be projected toward the ground plane. The resulting base cone will then show the
effect of forces in all directions. But like the one-dimentional L/H ratio analysis, the
dynamic effects of body roll and rebound are not considered in the base cone analysis.
Effective Half Tread and Center of Gravity Location
The half-tread of a four wheel vehicle is simply one half the actual tread. With three
wheel vehicles, the effective half tread is represented by the distance from the vehicle’s cg
to the edge of the triangle formed by intersecting the contact patch of the three wheels
(see Figure 2.1). Consequently, when the cg is moved toward the single wheel end of the
platform, the effective half tread is reduced. The vehicle behaves as though the side-by-
side wheels had actually been moved closer together. When the cg is moved toward the
two side-by-side wheels, the effective half tread is increased and the vehicle behaves as
though the side-by-side wheels had been moved farther apart. One has two primary tools
for increasing the effective half tread of a three wheel vehicle: The two side-by-side
wheels may be moved farther apart to increase the actual tread, and the cg may be moved
closer to the end of the vehicle having the side-by-side wheels to increase the effective
half tread. (Increasing the wheelbase also slightly increases the effective half tread of
three wheel vehicles.)
Since the effective half tread of a three-wheeler is always less than its actual half tread, it is
important to keep the cg as low as possible in order to maintain an adequate L/H ratio.
Make the effective half tread as wide as possible by placing the cg as close as is practical
to the two side-by-side wheels. And because of its impact on effective half tread and
L/H ratio, a three-wheeler’s cg must be maintained at a pre-determined location.
Consequently, variable payloads such as luggage and fuel should placed low and near the
side-by-side wheels. Avoid placing them at the single wheel end of the vehicle.
It is easy to see that the closer one places the cg to the side-by-side wheels, the more
resistant to rollover a three wheel vehicle becomes. But this design imperative also
impacts the basic oversteer/understeer characteristics of the vehicle.
Understeer and Oversteer
In order to understand the understeer/oversteer characteristics of a vehicle, one must first

understand the behavior of a tire rolling under a load imposed from the side. During
turns at parking lot speeds, a tire rolls in the direction of its geometric heading. It travels
in the direction in which it is pointed. At higher speeds, steering inputs result in
significant side loads, which make the tire creep to the outside of the turn. The tire no
longer travels in the direction of its geometric heading. The difference between the tire’s
geometric heading and the direction in which it is traveling is called the “slip angle.” The
slip angle of a tire increases according to the magnitude of the side load. The magnitude
of the side load in a turn is a factor of the portion of the vehicle’s weight that is carried by
the tire, and the lateral acceleration resulting from the turn. The sharper the turn and/or
the greater the weight, the greater the slip angle. In a steadily increasing turn, the slip
angle continues to increase according to the magnitude of the side load, until the tire
6
reaches its limit of adhesion (determined by its friction coefficient). At the adhesion limit,
it breaks away and slides. This characteristic of tires is the basic factor underlying the
understeer/oversteer characteristics of a vehicle.
A vehicle is said to understeer when the slip angle of the front tires increase more rapidly
than that of the rear tires. At the limit of adhesion, the front tires of an understeering
vehicle tend to loose traction first, and the vehicle begins to mush ahead and come out of
the turn on its own, rather than spin out. Just the opposite happens with an oversteering
vehicle. With an oversteering vehicle, the slip angle of the rear tires increases more
rapidly than that of the front tires. The vehicle then tends to steer into the turn, which
further increases the turn forces (side loads) and accelerates the increase in turn rate.
Once oversteer begins, it increases on its own, unless the driver senses the oversteering
condition and manually steers out of the turn. At the limits of adhesion, oversteering
vehicles characteristically spin out, resulting in the loss of directional control. Since most
drivers are not highly skilled at handling a vehicle near the limit of adhesion, modern
automobiles are designed with some degree of understeer.
Assuming tires of equal size, construction, and inflation pressure, a vehicle’s natural
understeer/oversteer tendency is determined fundamentally the loading of the tires, which
is dependent on the vehicle’s cg. When tires are identical and evenly loaded (each tire
carries the same portion of the vehicle’s weight), then neutral steer naturally occurs.
When the front tires carry a greater percentage of the weight, then the vehicle tends to
understeer. When the cg is biased toward the rear tires, then the vehicle tends to
oversteer. With a four wheel vehicle, neutral steer would theoretically occur when the cg
is located at the mid-point of the wheelbase (placing equal weight on all four wheels). A
three wheel vehicle would have theoretical neutral steer when the cg is located at a
distance from the side-by-side wheels equal to one-third of its wheelbase. But due to the
effect of longitudinal cg location on a three wheeler’s effective half tread, a three wheel
vehicle designed for adequate resistance to rollover will likely have as much as 75 percent
of its weight on the side-by-side wheels. As a result, three wheel vehicles having a single
front wheel naturally oversteer and those having a single rear wheel naturally understeer.
The natural understeer/oversteer tendency of a vehicle can be modified in a number of

ways. One of the most effective tools available to designers is the art of selectively
varying the location and stiffness of the anti-roll bar(s). An anti-roll bar is a transversely
mounted bar that extends from a suspension member of one wheel across to a
suspension member of the opposite wheel. It is connected to the frame in the center.
The primary purpose of an anti-roll bar is to prevent excessive body roll in turns. When
the body rolls in a turn, the anti-roll bar is twisted, much like a torsion bar, and it thereby
resists the roll of the body. An ancillary effect, however, is that it also reduces the
cornering force capability of the side-by-side wheels upon which it is acting. Because of
this effect, the anti-roll bar would be placed at the front of an oversteering vehicle to
reduce front-end cornering force capability, and thereby reduce the vehicle’s tendency to
oversteer. With an understeering vehicle, the anti-roll bar would be placed at the rear to
reduce understeer. By varying the stiffness and placement of the anti-roll bar(s), the
vehicle’s basic understeer/oversteer characteristics can be adjusted.
But three-wheelers have side-by-side wheels only at one end of the vehicle. Since the roll
stiffness of a three-wheeler can come only from the side-by-side wheels, designers do not
7
have a choice on where to locate the anti-roll bar. It must be placed at the end of the
vehicle having the two side-by-side wheels. As a result, the anti-roll bar actually
exaggerates the three-wheeler’s inherent understeer/oversteer tendency.
The remaining options for modifying the understeer/oversteer bias of a vehicle include
varying the diameter, cross-section, and compounding of the tires, and varying the
inflation pressure. Smaller, narrower tires develop less cornering forces than those having
a wide profile and a wide, flat tread. Wider rims increase a tire’s ability to develop
cornering force, and narrower ones decrease a tire’s cornering force. In addition,
increasing the inflation pressure increases cornering force capability, and decreasing the
inflation pressure decreases cornering force capability. These attributes can be selectively
varied to modify a three wheeler’s basic understeer/oversteer tendency. But the
effectiveness of these techniques is limited. Normally, they are not effective enough to
cause understeer in a single front wheel vehicle, nor to cause oversteer in a single rear
wheel vehicle (assuming the cg is heavily biased toward the side-by-side wheels).
Tri-Magnum has a significant degree of natural understeer, which is ameliorated by its

large front tires with their wide, flat tread. The single rear tire has a smaller cross-section,
which gives it less cornering force capability than the front tires. But even with these
compensating factors, Tri-Magnum still exhibits understeer, which is the preferred
condition. Due to the high power of its motorcycle engine in combination with the single
powered rear wheel, Tri-Magnum’s basic understeer can sometimes be pushed into
oversteer by applying maximum power.
As a final note, it is important to understand that an understeering vehicle is not

necessarily safe, and one that oversteers is not necessarily unsafe. Much depends on the
magnitude of the understeer/oversteer tendency. Many of the world’s production cars
have been built with oversteer; some of which have had a rather large degree of oversteer,
such as the ubiquitous VW Beetle. But in today’s litigation-happy environment,
manufacturers are careful to engineer some degree of understeer into their products. To
quote J. C. Dixon, author of Tires, Suspension & Handling (SAE 1995), “Understeer is when
the driver gets the blame, and oversteer is when the manufacturer get the blame.”
Low Polar Moment of Inertia
The attribute most responsible Polar Moment of Inertia

for the three-wheeler’s nimble
feel and responsive handling is its
inherently low polar moment of
inertia. A correctly designed
three wheel vehicle will have a
significantly lower polar moment
of inertia than most four wheel
vehicles. This occurs because of
the mandate to avoid spreading
Dumbell Has High Ball Has Low
out the vehicle’s mass over its Polar Moment of Inertia Polar Moment of Inertia
length, such as is typically done

with four wheel vehicles. Figure 3.1
8
A vehicle’s polar moment of inertia is determined by the percentage of mass that is located near
the ends. A vehicle with a high polar moment tends to be more sluggish in its response to
steering inputs. It takes more time to enter a turn and settle into a steady state turn rate. One
with a low polar moment enters a turn and establishes a steady state turn rate much more
quickly. The difference in steering response time is normally only fractions of a second, but it’s
enough to give the three-wheeler its characteristic nimble feel.
Conclusions and Recommendations
The three wheel platform demands more careful attention to the multitude of factors that
influence the vehicle’s stability and handling. It is essential that the cg remain within the
envelope set by the designer. Locate the cg as low as possible to reduce the size of the base
cone at the ground plane, and thereby maintain the largest possible margin of safety against
rollover. The cg should be as near as is practical to the side-by-side wheels; preferably about 75
percent of the wheelbase from single wheel end of the vehicle. Take care, however, to avoid
building too much oversteer or understeer into the design. The single front wheel platform
should be equipped with a smaller front wheel and tire to reduce the magnitude of its natural
oversteer. Rear tires would be larger in diameter and cross-section, and mounted on wide rims
for the greatest road-holding capability. With a single rear wheel platform (like Tri-Magnum),
one would generally want to increase the cornering force capability at the front to offset
understeer. But much depends on the degree of understeer, and whether power is delivered to
a single rear wheel or to the side-by-side front wheels.
Consider the tradeoffs between the options of reducing the cg height and that of moving it
closer to the side-by-side wheels. Both have a similar effect on the margin of safety against
rollover. But moving the cg closer to the side-by-side wheels will increase the vehicle’s natural
oversteer or understeer tendency (depending on whether the platform is a single front wheel or
single rear wheel design), and reducing the cg height tends to present ingress/egress and eye-
height problems at the extremes. In the final analysis, there are practical limits to both
techniques. But none of these limitations precludes the idea of designing a high performance
three wheel vehicle with exceptional maneuverability and high resistance to overturning. As it is
shown in the plans, Tri-Magnum has a large margin of safety against rollover. However, if the
cg were moved toward the rear as a result of a change in the design, the vehicle will become less
resistant to rollover. Moving the cg both upward and rearward would compound the
detrimental effects, and perhaps result in a vehicle with undesirable handling characteristics.
9
Substituting a Different
Motorcycle
T
he original Tri-Magnum prototype was built on a 1976 Kawasaki KZ900 motorcycle.
I N T H I S
The 900cc and 1000cc Kawasaki’s were dimensionally identical from 1973 through
C H A P T E R 1978. Consequently, the dimensions on the drawings would remain unchanged with
Power curve preferences any of the foregoing models. But it is not necessary to use a motorcycle of this series,
or even one made by Kawasaki. The chapter entitled Chassis Construction includes photographs
Cooling requirements
and instructions describing step-by-step how the Kawasaki motorcycle was aligned and mated
Shaft drive vs chain drive to the chassis when the prototype was built. You can use the same techniques to mate a
Reverse gear different motorcycle of your choice.
Since Tri-Magnum was first introduced, we have received many requests for suggestions
of other suitable motorcycles. The Honda Gold Wing would be an excellent choice. I
had an opportunity to ride in the Gold Wing-based Tri-Magnum built by Dan Hoffine.
His vehicle was quieter and smoother than the original Tri-Magnum. In addition, the
engine used in the Honda Gold Wing develops peak torque at a much lower rpm than
that of the KZ900. So it is more suited to an automotive application. When selecting a
substitute motorcycle, consider the following key attributes:
 Motorcycle drive train attributes

 Water cooled versus air cooled
 A reverse gear
Motorcycle Drive Train Attributes
Select one of the larger motorcycles as a basis. Generally, the larger the engine the better
Tri-Magnum runs. The few that were built on motorcycles having engines in the 400cc to
600cc range have generally not worked as well as those with larger engines. One problem
that seems to be common with vehicles built on smaller bikes is inadequate cooling.
Vehicles using smaller motorcycles tend to run hot. This is probably due more to engine
overloading than it is to an inadequate supply of cooling air. Although some of the
smaller bikes may work, it’s best to select a motorcycle with an engine of 900cc or greater.
The engine’s power curve is another important attribute. Tri-Magnum weighs

significantly more than the motorcycle used as a basis. With a heavier vehicle, an engine
that develops greater torque in the lower rpm ranges will work better, mainly because of
the low-end torque needed when accelerating from a stop. The higher rpm engines will
work (the original KZ900 was equipped with a high-rpm engine), but if you have an
alternative, select a motorcycle with an engine that develops peak torque in the lower rpm
ranges.
10
Note Another consideration is the vibration level of the particular motorcycle. The motorcycle
Should undue high- in Tri-Magnum is bolted rigidly to the chassis. As a result, vibrations from the motorcycle
frequency vibrations are transferred into the passenger compartment. Motorcycles vary widely in their level of
develop, use vibration vibrations. Although it is possible to mount the motorcycle in vibration dampers to
dampers at all reduce vibrations, it’s best to eliminate vibrations at their source. Select a smooth-running
connections between
bike for the best results. Dan Hoffine’s Tri-Magnum, built on a Honda Gold Wing, ran
the specially
constructed frame and as smoothly as a conventional passenger car.
the motorcycle frame.
Use relatively stiff Avoid motorcycles having two-cycle engines. Two-cycle engines typically have poor low-
dampers in order to rpm torque, and generally, they do not run as smoothly as four-cycle engines. Fuel
avoid flexibility at economy is also poor. A motorcycle with a four-cycle engine will produce the best
motorcycle connection results.
points.
Another consideration is whether to use a motorcycle with a shaft drive. As a general
rule, the answer is a qualified yes. Shaft driven bikes tend to be quieter and smoother, and
the shaft drive avoids the noise and maintenance problems associated with chain-driven
machines. But there is also a down side to using a shaft drive. Generally, your options
will be more limited (or eliminated) if you want to experiment with the final drive ratio to
fine-tune your finished vehicle for peak performance. Also, consider the room available
for using a larger rear tire. The diameter of the shaft drive housing and its close proximity
to the rear tire may limit tire size options. Normally, greater clearance exists with a chain
drive, which may work out better with the larger, uncrowned automotive tire
recommended in the plans.
Water Cooled Versus Air Cooled
If you substitute a different motorcycle, take special care to insure that the engine is
cooled to the manufacturer’s specifications. Cooling requirements vary between different
motorcycles, and engine room airflow could be slightly altered with a different setup.
The KZ900 used in the prototype was equipped with a free-air engine. A free-air engine
relies on an ample supply of ambient air for its cooling needs. Cooling will be adequate
with an air-cooled machine, provided you install the lower engine room covers shown in
the plans (see Engine Cooling in the chapter entitled Chassis Construction). If your vehicle is
equipped with a free-air engine, and you do not install these covers, the engine will
overheat.
Airflow through the engine room requires both an inlet and an outlet. The rearward
facing vents on the upper engine room cover are designed to provide an outlet for hot air.
But to establish an adequate flow of air across the engine, cool air must be forced into the
engine room from underneath. The lower engine room covers are equipped with
forward-facing scoops, which direct fresh air into the engine room. Without them, little
flow will exist on it own. It is also best to install an oil cooler. And be sure to install a
cylinder head temperature gauge with any motorcycle other than the KZ900 shown in the
plans. These relatively inexpensive devices can be purchased at most automotive speed
shops. A washer-like sensor is installed under one of the spark plugs, and a single lead is
routed from it to the instrument inside the passenger compartment.
11
In general, a water-cooled machine will produce a quieter, cooler-running vehicle. And

adequate cooling will be more predictable than with a free-air machine. Essentially, one
has only to direct an adequate flow of fresh air through the radiator, rather than rely on
the correct circulation of air within the entire engine room. Another advantage is the ease
with which the vehicle can be equipped with a heater. To heat the cabin, simply route the
hot coolant line through a heater core mounted inside the cabin. The heater core, control
system, and ducting can come from a salvaged car.
A Reverse Gear
The original prototype was not equipped with a reverse gear, and plans do not show a
reverse. The best option for those who want a reverse is to build the vehicle on a Honda
Gold Wing equipped with a built-in reverse system. Beginning in 1988, all Aspencade and
Special Edition Gold Wings have been factory-equipped with an electric reverse.
According to Honda, however, their reverse system cannot be retrofitted to a motorcycle
that did not come with a reverse.
Another option would be to rig a reverse system using a standard automotive starter
motor in combination with a friction wheel. The starter motor would be mounted so that
either the entire motor and friction wheel assembly, or just the friction wheel itself, could
be pivoted against the rear tire; by pulling a lever from inside the cabin, for example.
When energized, the starter motor would then drive the car in reverse. No plans are
available for such a setup, so those who are interested would have to design their own.
Because of their continuously variable transmissions, both Urba Car and Urba Electric
use an electric reverse. With these vehicles, a ring gear from an industrial engine is
mounted on the jackshaft (part of the final drive of these vehicles). When the starter is
energized, the bendix gear on the starter motor automatically moves outward to engage
the ring gear and drive the car backwards. When the starter is shut off, the bendix gear
retracts to disengage the system, just like the starter mechanism of a conventional
automobile. Depending on the design of your motorcycle, such a system might be
designed to fit.
Key considerations for an electric reverse include the direction of rotation of the starter
motor, the ease with which a friction wheel could be attached/driven (assuming the
friction-wheel system is used), and the available space near the rear wheel for mounting
the assembly. Also, consider the speed of the starter output shaft in relation to the speed
at which the vehicle should be driven in reverse (about 5 mph, which equates to 60 rpm
with a 28-inch diameter tire). Some type of reduction drive may be necessary between
the starter motor and the drive train/rear wheel interface to make the system work
correctly. And finally, an electric reverse tends to be quite power-hungry, so be sure to
install a battery that is capable of handling the extra load.
12
Specifications
Length: 146 ½ inches Power Train: Kawasaki KZ900
Width: 65 inches Engine Type: 4 stroke, DOHC
Height: 42 inches transverse in-line 4 cylinder, air cooled
Wheelbase: 83 inches
Track: 58 inches Horsepower: 81 @ 8500 rpm
Brakes: Drum Front/Disc Rear Displacement: 55.1 cu. In. (903cc)
Curb Weight: 1125 lbs. Comp. Ratio: 8.5:1
Grd. Clearance: 4 ½ inches Bore & Stroke: 66mm x 66mm
Turning Circle: 32 feet Max. RPM: 9,000
Transmission: 5 speed, constant mesh
Fuel Capacity: 4 ½ gallons return shift
Seating: 2 side-by-side
13
Materials List
Plastic
40 yd 6 ounce, 60 inch glass cloth
18 yd 1 ½ ounce, 38 inch glass mat
1 roll 4 inch x 50 yards fiberglass tape
18 gal polyester laminating resin with catalyst
5 gal fiberglass body filler (Bondo or Slik)
1 gal Featherfil or Eliminator
9 sht 1 x 48 x 96 inch rigid urethane foam (not styrofoam)
1 sht ¼ x 48 x 96 inch Tuffak, Solar Bronze (windows)
Metal
30 ft 1 ½ x 2 ½ x .120 inch rec. steel tube (frame)
10 ft 1 ½ x 1 ½ x 1/8 inch angle iron (misc. brkts.)
15 ft ¾ x 1 ½ x .065 inch rec. steel tube (canopy)
20 ft ¾ x ¾ x .065 inch sq. steel tube (canopy)
1 ft 2 inch O.D. x .120 inch rd. steel tube (steering)
½ ft 1 ¾ inch O.D. x .065 inch rd. steel tube (steering)
1 ft 1 inch O.D. x .250 inch rd. steel tube (frame spacer)
2 ½ ft 1 inch O.D. x .120 inch rd. steel tube (shifter)
7 ft 5/8 inch O.D. x .120 inch rd. seamless steel tube (shift link & hinge
brngs)
1 ft 5/8 inch rd. steel rod (steering shaft)
3 ft 3/8 inch rd. steel rod (hinge pins)
2 ft ¼ x 1 ½ inch steel strap (canopy hinge & nut plate)
1 ½ ft ¼ x 2 inch steel strap (bumper brkt. & canopy latch)
3 ft 3/16 x 1 inch steel strap (headlight brkt. & steer assembly)
4 ft 1/8 x 1 inch steel strap (light brkt. & shifter)
2 pc 3/8 inch steel plate flame-cut per drwg. (canopy hinge)
3 pc ¼ x 4 x 4 inch steel plate (canopy hinge & light assembly)
1 pc 1/8 x 9 ½ x 18 inch steel plate (brake & throttle)
1 pc 4 x 4 ft x .063 inch aluminum sheet (air scoop)
Auto Parts
1 1969 or later VW Beetle front suspension assembly
2 1969 VW Beetle hood latch assembly (canopy & hatch latch)
1 1969 VW Van gas door (or substitute as desired)
1 1976 Subaru steering universal joint (steering assembly)
1 pr Datsun B210 hatchback pneumatic lift cylinder
1 Dodge Colt master cylinder (or substitute)
1 1976 Ford Courier brake pedal and pin
1 1968 - 1973 Datsun 510 park brake lever assembly (headlight)
1 1971 Datsun truck throttle pedal assembly (throttle pedal)
1 pr 1980 Ford Mustang side mirror
14
1 pr Sun Shield (by Kobel) #3117 window louver (vents)

1 GM #5966076 capsule assembly (headlight)
1 GM #5966077 capsule assembly (headlight)
1 Pace Setter #40-1499 stabilizer bar (front suspension)
1 Hurst #114-4580 Boot and Plate (shifter boot)
1 Formuling France #6317-13 steer wheel (13 in. dia.)
1 Formuling France adaptor (to fit steer shaft end)
1 license plate lamp (as desired)
1 pr small rectangular turn signal lamp as desired
1 pr Reflect-O-Lite #110-150 tail/stop lamp assembly (RV item)
2 12 v, single filament bulb & holder (fix inside lamp assembly)
2 14 x 6 inch ET Mag #25460 with Chevy bolt pattern
1 pr VW-to-Chevy adaptor plate
1 speedometer cable assembly with VW pickup & in-line ratio adaptor as
needed for motorcycle speedometer head
1 9 ft non-locking control cable (engine hatch latch)
1 6 ft non-locking control cable (canopy latch)
Motorcycle Parts
1 motorcycle 900 cc or greater, as desired
1 VDO #1262-901-015 12v cylinder head temp. gauge
1 oil cooler kit (to fit your motorcycle)
1 throttle cable assembly (size as needed to reach pedal)
1 clutch cable assembly (size as needed to reach lever)
1 tachometer cable assembly (size as needed to reach tach)
1 Gold Belt Line “DeHandlers” brake/clutch lever
Upholstery
3 yd 54 inch vinyl as desired (seat covering)
2 yd scrim (pleat backing)
4 ½ yd 40 inch carpet as desired (floor & wall covering)
30 ft small ply-grip strip (secures edges of vinyl)
30 ft pre-made welt (put into ply-grip to finish edges)
1 pc 1 x 48 x 96 inch foam (padding under vinyl)
3 can 3M #74 Foam & Fabric spray adhesive
500 short 1/8 inch pop rivet, aluminum
Miscellaneous
1 Morse #CFM-6 rod end joint (shifter linkage)
2 Nice #1633 DC bearing (steering assembly)
1 Slide-Co. Door Lock #15414 (steering latch)
2 sht 4 x 8 x ½ inch plywood (bulkheads & cabin panels)
1 1/8 inch veneer door skin (floorboard & kick panel)
15
Vendor List
Southwestern Insulation Fuller Enterprises

202 North 47th Ave. 1441 N. Smith Street
Phoenix, AZ 85043 Chattanooga, TN 37412
Phone: 602-272-6806 (Fiberglass materials)
Fax: 602-272-4738
(Urethane foam boardstock/sheets) Bertram Enterprises
6802 N. 55th Avenue
CMI-Composites, Inc. Glendale, AZ 85301
2701 West Virginia Ave. (Custom motorcycle wheels)
Phoenix, AZ 85009
Phone: 800-522-2599 H & R. Sales
(Fiberglass resin and cloth/supplies) 1118 - 1124 N. 35th Avenue
Phoenix, AZ 85009
Laird Plastics Phone: 602-269-6131
301 E. Watkins (Upholstery materials & supplies)
Phoenix, AZ 85044
Phone: 602-252-1701 J. C. Whitney & Co.
http://www.laird-plastics.com P. O. Box 3000
(Plastic sheet goods & adhesives) LaSalle, IL 61301
Phone: 312-431-6102
Fibre Glast Developments Corporation (Auto & motorcycle parts)
800-330-6368
http://www.fibreglast.com
(Mail order fiberglass materials & supplies)
16
Chassis Construction
Build the chassis first, following these step-by-step instructions
T
he chassis for the prototype Tri-magnum was built on a 1976 Kawasaki KZ900
I N T H I S
motorcycle. The front suspension was from a 1969 VW Beetle. The 900cc and
C H A P T E R the 1000cc Kawasakis were dimensionally identical from 1973 through 1978.
Frame construction Consequently, the dimensions on the drawings will remain unchanged with any
of the foregoing models. If you substitute a different motorcycle, follow the sequence of
Aligning the motorcycle
construction outlined on the following pages (see Substituting a Different Motorcycle). This
Front suspension setup will insure that the motorcycle is correctly mated to the VW front suspension.
Rear wheel modifications
If you are unfamiliar with three wheel vehicle dynamics, and must increase the wheelbase
Parking brake installation to accommodate a longer motorcycle, limit the increase to 5 inches. Do not decrease the
wheelbase to accommodate a shorter motorcycle (see Three Wheel Vehicle Dynamics).
Build the chassis first. Do not attempt to build the body then fit the chassis to it. In
effect, the chassis is used as a jig over which the body is built. This insures that the two
major assemblies will fit together, and that adequate clearance will be provided for the
various chassis components.
Take special care to square the chassis as

you go along. Keep in mind that welding
tends to distort steel tubing. Consequently,
items that were perfectly square before
welding may not be square afterwards. It’s
good practice to tack-weld components at
two or three points around or along a seam,
then recheck for square before welding the
entire length of the seam. Carefully follow
the sequence of construction outlined on
the following pages and you should have no
difficulty keeping the chassis in alignment.
Figure 1.2 shows the finished chassis,
minus the motorcycle.
Figure 1.2
Prepare the Motorcycle
The first step in building the chassis is to properly prepare the motorcycle. Begin by
removing motorcycle-specific components such as lighting, seats, cowlings, foot pegs, and
other similar fixtures. Remove the handlebars, controls, and the instruments. Wire looms
should unplug at some point near the front of the motorcycle.
17
Remove the front fork and wheel. Support the rear on the center stand. Support the
front by sliding a length of tubing through the head (the frame fixture that holds the fork
bearings) and down to the ground. Drill a hole in the tubing underneath the head, then
insert a bolt so the head will rest against the bolt and support the front of the motorcycle,
as shown in Figure 2.2. The motorcycle should be free standing before proceeding.
Figure 2.2 Figure 3.2
Level the motorcycle in all directions using a carpenter’s level (see Figure 3.2). This may
seem like an easy task, but motorcycle frames are not necessarily symmetrical. So you
may have to be innovative in selecting appropriate checkpoints. Level the motorcycle in
the front-to-rear direction using a straight length of the frame. With the original
Kawasaki, the two side-by-side rails under the seat were used. However, one side gave a
different reading than the other. If the motorcycle is slightly off in the front-to-rear
plane, it will not cause problems. The side-to-side plane is more critical. So take extra
care and check the level against several points on the motorcycle.
Install Parallel Frame Members –  Sheet 2
Install the two parallel frame members that attach along the bottom of the motorcycle
frame. With a ‘73-’78 Kawasaki KZ900 series bike, refer to the dimensions on Sheet 2.
With a different motorcycle, new dimensions and attachment points will be required.
When fitting a different motorcycle, position the two parallel frame members as high as
possible for maximum ground clearance. Locate them as near as possible to the lower
frame rails of the motorcycle. The side-to-side separation of the parallel frame members
is 14 ½ inches. If possible, hold this dimension to avoid having to develop new
dimensions for the forward section of the chassis. Also, avoid locating the parallel frame
members in a position that might interfere with servicing the motorcycle later on.
In the following photos, the exhaust system is not in place as the frame is built. When
selecting the location and attachment points of the parallel frame members, be sure to
provide room for the exhaust system. Preferably, the stock exhaust will remain in place
during construction. Interference problems, however, may require that you remove it in
18
order to assemble the frame. Mainly because of interference problems, Tri-Magnum was
equipped with an aftermarket four-into-one exhaust system. As shown in the plans, the
stock exhaust system will not fit unless it is modified to clear the frame.
Figure 4.2 shows a close-up view of the right, front mounting bracket, which is welded to
the motorcycle frame. An identical bracket is located on the opposite side. Figure 5.2
shows a close-up view of the right, rear attachment bracket. The attachment on the
opposite side is identical to this one.
Note
The triangular front
bracket is welded to
the motorcycle frame
and the new frame is
bolted to the bracket.
At the rear, the
mounting bracket
bolts to the front foot-
peg fixture on the
frame of the
motorcycle.
Note
To hold the correct
separation and keep
them parallel, clamp a
14-1/2-inch length of
wood between the two
frame members, as
shown in Figure 6.2.
With a different
motorcycle, this
separation dimension
may be slightly
different.
Figure 6.2
19
As the attachment brackets are fitted, take special care to get the frame members leveled
and squared with the motorcycle. Notice that the rear of the new frame attaches to the
motorcycle fixture that originally held the front foot peg assembly. The fixture is well
reinforced with a large gusset that anchors it securely to the frame. The workman in
Figure 6.2 is using a carpenter’s level to check side-to-side alignment of the parallel frame
members.
Tripod Mast –  Sheet 2
With the Kawasaki, match the angle of the mast to the head-angle of the motorcycle.
With motorcycles having a different head-angle, it is best to hold the angle of the mast as
shown in the plans, and allow a slight misalignment between it and the head of the new
motorcycle. This will avoid any need to change the profile of body panel “C,” which fits
flush against the front of the mast. Figure 7.2 shows the mast clamped in place and ready
to be sized. Use a carpenter’s level to check the alignment of the mast. It should be
perpendicular to the floor (in the lateral direction).
Figure 7.2
The workman in Figure 8.2 is scribing a trim-line at the top of the mast, 1/8 inch above
the head tube on the motorcycle. In Figure 9.2, a similar trim-line is being scribed flush
with the top of the crossbeam on the frame.
Next, install the upper and lower head brackets. The two round bushings shown in
Figure 10.2 are machined to fit snugly into the bearing seats in the motorcycle frame.
They should protrude at least 1/8 inch above and below the head tube. Clamp the
brackets in place then weld them to the frame as shown in Figure 11.2. Use a ¾ inch
diameter bolt vertically through the center to secure the motorcycle to the mast.
20
Front Suspension and Wheels
Use the front suspension assembly from a 1969 or later VW Beetle. This version is
equipped with ball joints. Do not use the older king-pin-equipped model.
The front wheels are centered 14 x 6 inch ET Mags (model #25460) with PL 95/70R14
radial tires. The wheels were purchased with Chevy bolt patterns, then mounted to the
VW hubs using VW-to-Chevy adaptor plates. The centered wheels and the ¾ inch thick
adaptor plates together add extra width to the tread for improved stability. Although
wheels are available to fit the VW bolt pattern, it is best to use adaptor plates in order to
increase the vehicle’s tread.
21
Remove the steering limiter bracket, as shown in Figure 12.2, then slide the steering box
inboard until it stops against the vertical truss that connects the upper and lower axle
beams.
Warning
After the body is
finished, weld the
steering box clamp
to the axle beam to
prevent it from
rotating around the
beam. Tighten the
steering box bolts
securely, then fix
them with the bend-
up tabs under the
bolts.
Figure 12.2
The steering box will be free to rotate around the axle beam once it is moved inboard
away from the locating buttons on the axle beam. These locating buttons engage notches
on the steering box clamp and hold it securely in place. For now, leave the steering box
free to rotate. The body must be finished before the correct angle of the steering box can
be determined. After the correct angle has been determined, weld the steering box clamp
to the axle beam to prevent further rotation.
Warning Later photos show an aftermarket lowering kit installed on the VW front suspension. The
Install a heavy-duty lowering kit, however, is unnecessary. The finished vehicle will ride at the correct height
stabilizer bar, such in front (the lower axle beam 8 to 9 inches above the ground at full load) with the stock
as the Pace Setter suspension. If, because of a difference in weight, your vehicle rides too high in front, a
Model #40-1499. It similar kit may be installed after the car is finished. They are available at most VW speed
may be unsafe to
shops.
operate the vehicle
with the stock
stabilizer bar.
22
Install Front Suspension -  Sheet 2
At this stage, the framework that connects to the motorcycle should be finished and
squared. The next step is to correctly mate this assembly to the VW front suspension.
This must be done accurately. If the motorcycle and/or front suspension are not squared
and correctly aligned, the vehicle could develop unusual handling characteristics. Critical
relationships are as follows:
 The longitudinal centerline of the motorcycle must project across the center of the
VW axle assembly located ahead of it.
 The motorcycle must be in a vertical position and the VW axle beam must be parallel
to the ground when checked side to side. Verify both items with a carpenter’s level.
 The VW axle beam must be at right angles to the longitudinal plane of the motorcycle
(one side of the axle beam cannot trail behind the other). To check for square,
measure from a fixed point on each side of the VW axle assembly to the rear axle of
the motorcycle. An appropriate hard point on the VW suspension would be the
center of the lower ball joints. Provided that the longitudinal centerline of the
motorcycle projects across the center of the VW axle beam, the two components will
be squared when the distance on both sides is equal.
 Support the VW axle assembly so the lower beam is 8 inches above the ground and
the upper and lower beams are perpendicular (they do not lean forward or rearward).
Verify by placing a carpenter’s level vertically across both beams.
Warning  The VW axle assembly must be located at the correct distance ahead of the
Consider the effect motorcycle. If you are using one of the 1973 through1978 900cc-1000cc Kawasaki
on stability when motorcycles, refer to Sheet 2 for the correct dimensions. With a different motorcycle,
making any change modifications to the dimensions on the drawings may be required to accommodate
that may affect the
vehicle’s cg. See
the new setup. Because of possible detrimental effects on the vehicle’s cg, do not
Three Wheel Vehicle
change the location of the tripod mast and do not move the motorcycle rearward
Dynamics at the
away from the mast. The mass of the motorcycle must remain as close as possible to
front of the book. the front wheels while avoiding a shorter wheelbase. If the rear wheel must be
moved rearward to maintain the wheelbase, consider the option of lengthening the
motorcycle’s rear trailing arm to displace only the rear wheel toward the rear.
Note  The rear of the motorcycle must be at the correct height, and the lower parallel frame
The ride-height of the members must be supported at the front so they point directly toward the lower axle
finished vehicle will be beam of the VW front suspension. If you are using a version of the Kawasaki
about 8 or 9 inches at
motorcycle used for the prototype, locate the rear edge of the parallel frame members
the front axle beam,
and at about mid- 6 inches above the ground. If you have chosen a different motorcycle, elevate the
travel of the rear rear until the rear wheel is at its maximum limit of downward travel while still
wheel. Positioning remaining firmly in contact with the ground.
given to the right is
only for aligning The first step in aligning the chassis components would be to determine the spacing
purposes. between the VW suspension assembly and the motorcycle. Block up the front suspension
and square it according to the foregoing instructions. Next, take the motorcycle off its
23
center stand and position it behind the front suspension and at the correct distance.
Block up the rear of the motorcycle to the height specified above, then block up the front
of the parallel frame members so they point directly toward the lower axle beam on the
front suspension. You can then square the two components and proceed to mate them,
as shown in the following sequence of photos.
Figure 13.2 shows how to use two lengths of angle iron to clamp the components
together so they do not move as the steel frame members are welded in place. Notice
that the angle iron is clamped securely to the front suspension and the motorcycle
framework.
Figure 13.2
In Figure 14.2, the workman is tack-welding the steel tubing in place. Figure 15.2 shows
the connection at the lower axle beam, and Figure 16.2 shows the angle iron truss that is
welded between the lower frame member and the upper axle beam.
After the motorcycle has been mated to the VW axle beam, weld the cross members in
place as shown on Sheet 2. The cross members give the frame torsional rigidity. Weld
the front bumper supporting structure to the front of the VW axle assembly. It is
installed parallel to the ground. The bumper supporting structure is later fiberglassed to
the body. Consequently, it must unbolt from the frame, as shown in the drawings. For a
photo of the finished chassis, minus the motorcycle, see Figure 1.2 at the beginning of the
chapter.
24
Figure 14.2
25
Rear Suspension and Wheel
Leave the rear suspension unmodified until the vehicle is finished, then make changes
only if necessary. Depending on the weight distribution of your vehicle, it may be
necessary to install rear springs having a different spring-rate. When fully loaded, the
maximum travel of the suspension should be about equal in both the up and down
directions (the wheel should rest at mid-travel). If the rear rests too high or too low,
remove the springs and take them to a dealer in used motorcycle parts. A different set of
springs with a slightly greater or lesser spring rate should be available. With the prototype
vehicle, lighter springs were required. If you have difficulty locating the correct springs
for your setup, a good alternative is to replace the spring-loaded rear shocks with air
shocks. Air shocks can be precisely adjusted for the correct ride-height.
If you retain the stock motorcycle rear wheel, use a large, uncrowned tire. In general,
however, motorcycle wheels are not designed for the high side loads that are typically
experienced in an automotive application. Much depends on the design of the particular
wheel. The best setup is to replace the rear wheel with a 15-inch disc type automotive
wheel, then install the widest automotive tire that will fit into the frame. The wheel in the
prototype vehicle is made of two outer halves of a Cragar #52340 wheel having a 1¾-inch
offset. A local auto parts dealer can order the correct wheel half-sections and the
appropriate center spacer from Cragar.
A local motorcycle speed shop should be capable of machining a special hub and the
necessary adaptors to mate the motorcycle drive and brake rotor to the automotive rear
wheel. If you have difficulty locating someone who can do the job, contact Bertram
Enterprises in Glendale, Arizona (see Vendor List in front of book).
The rear tire used for the prototype is a Goodyear Arriva Pl55/80R15 radial. This is the
widest tire that will fit into this model of the Kawasaki motorcycle. The limiting factor is
the location of the chain, which clears the new tire by only ¼ inch. Figure 17.2 shows
how the trailing arm was notched to clear the tire. Figure 18.2 shows the specially built
wheel in place with the disc brake assembly.
26
Brakes
A three wheel vehicle must be equipped with hydraulic brakes on all three wheels. The
1976 Kawasaki KZ900, however, is equipped with mechanical rear brakes. We installed a
hydraulic caliper and rotor set from a KZ650 motorcycle, but others will also work. The
Dodge Colt master cylinder was chosen because it is equipped with fluid reservoirs that
are clamped directly to the unit, which avoids the job of finding a suitable location for a
remote reservoir. Just about any dual-chamber master cylinder with a ¾-inch bore will
work.
Use the existing motorcycle flexible brake line at the rear, between the caliper and a fixed
point on the frame, as shown in Figure 19.2. Figure 20.2 shows a typical brake flex-line
connection at the front. Locate the fixed end on the frame in a position that will allow
full-lock steering and full bounce without causing the line to bind or rub the tire.
Warning
Steel brake lines
must be correctly
flared at fittings. A
special tool for
flaring steel lines is
available at your
local auto parts
store. Use the tool
according to the
manufacturer’s
instructions. An
improperly flared
line could fail in
service.
Note Route steel lines from both front flex-lines to a tee fitting, which may be placed at any
After the vehicle is convenient location on the frame. Route a single steel brake line from the tee to the front
finished, bleed the brake line receptacle on the master cylinder. Route a single steel line from the rear flex-
brakes beginning with line to the rear brake line receptacle on the master cylinder. Install an inline brake light
the wheel farthest pressure switch at any point in either line to operate the stoplights.
from the master
cylinder and working
toward the one closest When the vehicle is finished, test the brakes for the correct balance between the front-
to the master cylinder. and rear-wheel braking. Ideally, the front wheels should lock up before or simultaneously
with the rear wheel. A system in which the rear wheel skids before the front wheels will
tend to destabilize the vehicle during hard braking. To correct a rear-biased braking
system, either increase the piston diameter of the front wheel cylinders, or decrease the
diameter of the rear cylinder. Another method of balancing the brakes is to install two,
single-piston master cylinders (one for the front and one for the rear), then operate both
of them with a single pedal working against a “balance bar,” which simultaneously
operates the plungers of the two master cylinders. The master cylinders are mounted
side-by-side with the brake pedal located between them. The brake pedal is adjusted
27
sideways toward the master cylinder requiring extra braking force. This is a popular setup
for sand rails and dune buggies. A ready-made balance bar pedal assembly should be
available at a local VW speed shop.
The finished vehicle must be equipped with parking brakes. The VW front brakes can be
modified to operate as parking brakes. Using the rear brake shoes of the VW as a pattern,
drill a hole in the front brake shoes so they will accept the parking brake actuating
mechanism from the rear brakes. Install the mechanism so the brake cable exits the top
of the backing plate. You will have to cut a small, square hole in the backing plate to hold
the end of the cable. See Figure 21.2.
Note
Do not attempt to use
the rear brakes on the
front. It is important
to retain the front
wheel cylinders.
Figure 21.2
28
Body Construction
Follow these step-by-step instructions to build the body
T
he fiberglassing techniques described on the following pages are designed
I N T H I S
especially for the do-it-yourselfer who is producing a single item. The process
C H A P T E R requires no mold, and pound-for-pound the resulting lightweight body shell is
Step-by-step construction considerably stronger than a conventional molded body. Although experience in
working with fiberglass is helpful, it is not necessary. Technique comes quickly and
Using urethane foam
fiberglass is surprisingly easy to work with. Carefully follow the plans and you should
Fiberglassing techniques have no difficulty building the body.
Canopy & hatch details
The body is assembled of panels cut from one-inch-thick, rigid urethane foam sheets.
Finishing and painting The panels are cemented in place over ½-inch plywood bulkheads, which have been
bolted to the chassis. This guarantees that the finished body will fit the chassis and that
adequate room will be provided for the various chassis components. It also gives the
builder a preview of how the styling will look in its finished, full-size state. Whether the
styling works or not will become apparent at a point when it can be easily changed for
little cost. After the foam body is finished it is then covered with two lay-ups of 6-ounce
Note
Use a solvent-based glass cloth and polyester laminating resin, which is applied one lay-up at a time to both
adhesive to bond the outside and inside surfaces. Cut the foam to shape using a razor knife, and glue it
urethane foam. Water- together with a solvent based contact cement. Apply the resin with a large paintbrush.
based adhesives do not Remove bubbles and wrinkles before the resin sets. Clean tools with acetone.
work well on urethane
foam. Until you become familiar with the material, add the catalyst sparingly to allow plenty of
working time. The required amount of catalyst and the setup time will vary between
brands of resin. Temperature also has a marked effect on the cure rate. Tests on one
brand with ¼ ounce of catalyst added to one quart of resin produced a pot life of 30
minutes at 72 degrees and 13 minutes at 90 degrees. Setup time is also very volume-
sensitive. Resin will set more rapidly in the mixing bucket than it will when it is spread
out in a thin coat on the surface of the body. Use this characteristic as a signal. When the
resin in the mixing bucket begins to gel, make sure the material on the body is smoothed
out and ready to set.
Most dealers who stock resins and fiberglass cloth will stock urethane foam, or they can
order it for you. If you have difficulty locating fiberglass materials or urethane foam,
check the Vendor List at the front of the book, or visit our website for additional sources.
Prepare the Chassis -  Sheet 5
Because the body is built over the chassis, the first step is to properly set it up. All major
chassis components should be in place. It is important to locate the chassis at its finished
29
ride-height. That would place the lower axle beam of the front suspension at 8 inches
above ground level. Ride-height at the rear would be at mid-travel of the rear suspension.
Because of the reduced weight, the front

suspension will be resting at its upper limit
Note: of travel. To fix it at the correct height,
It’s best to chain the remove the shocks, then compress the
suspension to its final suspension and chain it in place as shown
ride-height so the in Figure 1.3. The chain is wrapped around
vehicle can be moved the lower shock mount, pulled up through
about on its wheels the hole in the shock tower, then secured
during construction. by inserting a bolt through a link. Fix the
ride-height at the rear either by chaining it
in place, as in the front, or by removing the
shocks and supporting the chassis on
blocks. The advantage of chaining it in
place is that the vehicle can be moved
Figure 1.3
about on its wheels while it is under
construction.
Plywood Bulkheads -  Sheets 3  5
Cut the bulkheads from ½-inch plywood according to the dimensions shown on Sheet 3.
Bolt them in place on the chassis. It is important to hold the bulkhead-to-bulkhead
spacing and elevation specified on the drawings. Also, bulkhead “C” must lean rearward
at the specified angle. The shape, spacing, and elevation of the bulkheads are necessary to
give the body the correct lines. Deviating from the plans could interrupt the smooth
front-to-rear flow of the lines by causing a bulge, dip, or some other inconsistency in the
shape of the body. See Figures 2.3, 3.3, and 4.3.
If you are using a different motorcycle, differences in the chassis may affect the location
of a bulkhead, which will have to be reflected in the bulkhead’s profile. The specified
location of the bulkhead over the motorcycle, for example, may not allow for appropriate
30
attachment points, or the bulkhead may end up in a location that will interfere with
servicing later on. If a bulkhead must be moved, it will have to be reshaped to carry the
lines of the body at its new location. Make the necessary changes, then install the
bulkhead(s) and verify the new profile by placing stringers front-to-rear over the
bulkheads, as shown in the following section entitled Exterior Foam Panels. A bulkhead
that is incorrectly shaped or out of positioned will cause an interruption in the front-to-
rear curvature of the stringers. You can then make the appropriate change in the
offending bulkhead(s), as needed to carry the lines smoothly over the length of the body.
Figure 4.3
Exterior Foam Panels -  Sheets 5  6  7
The drawings do not give dimensions for the large, exterior foam panels. It is easier to
take tracings directly from the bulkhead assembly. Remove the front wheels and support
the front of the chassis so the lower axle beam is 8 inches above the ground. Temporarily
install 12-foot lengths of ¼ x 1½-inch wood molding strips, running lengthwise across
each break in the plywood bulkheads as shown in Figure 5.3. Use small brads to hold
them in place so they can be easily removed later on.
Note
Stringers are
temporary. Install
them so they can be
easily removed later
on.
Figure 5.3
31
Begin with the side panels “F.” Hold a large section of foam against one side of the body,
then mark the trim-line along the upper and lower stringers, as shown in Figure 6.3. Trim
the panel slightly oversize, as shown in Figure 7.3, then check it against both sides of the
body for fit. If the bulkheads are accurately cut and installed, this initial panel “F” should
fit either side. Use the first panel “F” as a pattern for the second one for the opposite
side.
Notice that in Figure 7.3 the bulkhead contact areas are marked onto the foam. These
marks help locate the panels as they are installed. They also indicate where to apply the
contact cement. The cement is applied to the plywood mating edges and to the
corresponding mating surfaces of the foam. Do not apply cement at this point. Simply
fit both panels then put them aside.
Warning
Cutting and sanding
urethane foam
produces airborne
particles, which remain
suspended for an
extended period.
Breathing air laden
with urethane foam
particles is harmful.
It’s good practice to
wear a respirator when
working with the foam.
The next step is to make panels “G.” Because they are 12 feet long, you will have to
cement an extra 4-foot length of foam onto one of the 4 x 8 foot sheets (urethane foam
normally comes in 4 x 8 foot sheets). Lay the 12-foot section against the upper side of
the body as shown in Figure 8.3. Notice the notch cut into the bottom edge of the foam
at each of the bulkheads. Mark the inside as shown in Figure 9.3. Cut two matching
panels, test fit them, then put them aside.
With the wood stringers still in place, trace the outline of panel “H” onto a length of
foam. Cut this panel at least 3 inches oversize along the outside edges. These panels will
32
be fitted to the body after panels “F” and “G” have been installed. For now, rough-cut
them to shape then put them aside.
After panels “F,” “G,” and “H” have been cut to shape, remove the wood stringers and
begin cementing the panels in place over the bulkheads. Install panels “F” first. Apply
the contact cement, let it tack off, then press the panels in place along the sides. Allow
the material to take a natural curvature along the front-to-rear plane. Pulling or pushing
in the lengthwise direction will cause flat spots or bulges between bulkheads. After the
panels are in place, use a Surform file to shape them along the top and bottom edges so
the curvature flows smoothly from front to rear and passes even with the peak at the top
and bottom corners of each bulkhead. Figure 10.3 shows panels “F” in place and shaped
to match the bulkheads.
Figure 10.3
Next, cement panels “G” into place. These panels are shaped along the top edges to
establish the upper profile of the body. It’s best, however, to wait until the body is more
fully assembled before shaping the top profile. For now, leave them slightly tall along the
top.
With panels “F” and “G” in place, shape panels “H” as needed to get them to fit. Each
panel should fit flush against the side of panel “G” and overlap panel “F” along the side
of the body. The workman in Figure 11.3 is applying contact cement in preparation for
panel “H.” After “H” has been installed, trim the overhang as shown in Figure 12.3.
33

Fit and install the under-panels “I.” Cut the bottom section from panel “G,” extending
rearward from plywood bulkhead “D,” as shown in Figure 13.3. Fit and install the lower
rear side panels “J,” as shown in Figure 14.3.
Note
Longitudinal lines
drawn on the side of
panel “G” (Figure
14.3) provide a guide
for establishing the
smooth flow of
bodylines along the
top profile, and for
locating the upper tail
light faring (Figure
15.3).
To correctly finish the rear, the upper and lower profiles of the body must be established.
Use a Surform file to shape panels “G” along the top edges. The upper edges of panels
“G” should pass flush with the top of each bulkhead and flow evenly over the length of
the body. Bulkheads also establish the profile along the bottom of the body. The
rearmost plywood bulkhead “E” fits against the fender bracket on the KZ900 motorcycle.
Panel “E” establishes the shape of the body at the rear. Dimensions for the wheel skirt,
the under-panels, and the panels that cap the rear are provided on Sheet 4.
If you have selected a different motorcycle, simply shape the rear of the body by
continuing the natural flow of bodylines toward the rear. The body may be lengthened at
the rear as needed to accommodate a longer wheelbase. Figure 15.3 shows the rear
nearing completion. Figure 16.3 shows a rear view after the skirt has been installed.
Notice how the skirt bends outward as it blends forward into the body.
34
Figure 15.3
Figure 16.3
Build the Interior -  Sheets 4  6  7
Build the cabin interior before installing panel “Y” to cap the top of the body. Drawings
give dimensions for the plywood interior panels. The first step is to install the right and
left plywood side-panels “T.” The two nailing strips on bulkhead “C,” indicated by the
arrows in Figure 17.3, locate the side panels at the rear. Figure 18.3 shows the side panels
in place. Notice the outward bend as these panels pass the shock towers. To achieve this
35
bend, kerf the plywood top-to-bottom about half way through on the outside according
to the drawing on Sheet 4. Nail the panels in place at the rear, then push the forward
ends outward against the steel bumper supports. Nail through bulkhead “B” and into the
front edge of panels “T.” After they are secured, check for adequate clearance for the tie
rods at full bounce and full-lock steering. The close proximity of the tie rods to Panels
“T” can be seen in Figure 18.3.
Note
Check for adequate
clearance between the
lower edges of panels
“T” and the tie rods.
Their close proximity
is apparent in Figure
18.3.
Use a portable reciprocating saw to cut the

center from bulkhead “B,” as shown in
Figure 19.3. The correct trim-line is shown
on Sheet 3. The opening in bulkhead “B”
should be flush with the inside surface of
panels “T” on both sides. Install the
floorboard panel “U” as shown in Figure
19.3. Glue and nail it in place, then secure
it with a 4-inch wide mat and cloth lay-up
along the seams (arrows). The half-circle
hole in the center will be necessary only
with a lowering kit. Figure 19.3
Cap the top of the wheel wells with 1-inch foam as shown in Figure 20.3. There are no
dimensional drawings for these panels. Simply hand fit them to your vehicle. It is very
important to locate the top surface of these foam panels just below the level of the seam
on the outside of the body where panel “H” butts into the side of panel “G.” This places
the top of the wheel wells below the canopy trim line. The canopy trim line will be
located ½ inch above the seam between panels “H” and “G.” To locate this exterior
seam on the inside, push a nail through the foam from the outside (keep the nail parallel
to the ground) at several points along the seam. Mark each point where the nail protrudes
on the inside of the foam. Connect these points with an evenly curved line drawn on the
inside surface of the foam. Use this line as a reference on the inside as you install the
foam over the wheel wells.
36
Note
When capping off the
wheel wells, be sure to
keep all foam panels
below the canopy trim
line, which is ½ inch
above the exterior
seam between panels
“G” and “H.”
Figure 20.3
Install the two 1/8-inch-thick wood veneer floorboard panels “V” and “W” (see Figure
21.3). Dimensions are provided on Sheet 4. Panel “V” is cut wide because it overlaps the
edge of panels “T” on both sides of the cabin. Secure it my nailing into the edges of
panels “T” from underneath the floorboard. Panel “W” simply lays in place and is
temporarily secured with glue. Fiberglass applied over the interior ultimately bonds all
panels together. Figure 21.3 shows the interior at this stage, as viewed from behind and
above. After the glue sets, secure all interior floorboard seams with a 4-inch wide mat and
cloth lay-up of fiberglass. Notice that the edges of the foam over the wheel wells are
rounded to blend into panels “T.”
Apply a mat and cloth lay-up of fiberglass over the interior as shown in Figure 22.3. Do
not apply fiberglass to the inside surface of panels “G” at this point. Apply fiberglass
over the top of the wheel wells, but stop just short of panels “G.”
37
Note
Large foam panel in
the center (Figure
24.3) is temporarily
installed to hold a
convex curvature in
the roof panel.
Install the foam panel “X.” Dimensions are given on Sheet 4. Secure it on the inside
with two lay-ups of mat and cloth (Figure 23.3). Figure 24.3 shows the body ready to
accept the roof panel (panel “Y”). The large section of foam in the center of the cabin
(arrow) is temporarily cemented in place then shaped along the top as needed to keep
panel “Y” slightly convexed across the windshield. This foam panel should follow the
shape of panels “G” along the top, but it should be ½ inch higher to match the level of
bulkheads “B” and “C” at the center. Test fit panel “Y” to make sure the temporary
center panel is correctly shaped. Drawings do not provide dimensions for panel “Y.”
Simply lay a 12-foot length of foam over the top of the body, hold it down against the
side panels, then mark along the outside edges. Trim it oversize, then cement it in place.
Do not apply cement to the temporary panel in the center of the cabin. Figure 25.3
shows how the body will look at this stage (wheel well openings will not have been cut
into the body).
To eliminate the panelized appearance, use a Surform file to round corners and blend the
seams between panels. Many first-time builders are reluctant to file deep enough into
38
corners to eliminate the panelized appearance. It’s possible to file more than half way
through the foam along the corners without compromising the strength of the body.
Carry the curves as far as possible onto the flat areas of adjacent panels to give the body a
smooth-flowing appearance. Smooth the file marks by block sanding the foam.
Note
The roof panel is
installed slightly
oversize then trimmed
flush along the edges
after it’s in place.
Figure 25.3
Wheel Wells -  Sheet 8
The center of the hubs will locate the center of the wheel wells. Make sure the hubs are
steered straight ahead. Using the hubs as the center of a compass, mark the circular
openings onto the side of the foam. Cut the openings with a razor knife then install both
front wheels. The chassis should rest with the axle beam 8 inches above the ground.
Figure 25.3 (above) shows the left wheel well opening at this stage.
39
The next step is to build the eyebrows around the openings. Beginning with either side,
cement scraps of foam into place around the opening to form an eyebrow like the one
shown in Figure 26.3. The foam that forms the eyebrow has been sanded to about half-
thickness so it will take the bend. Scrape pieces of foam may be wedged between the
eyebrow and the tire to keep the eyebrow from flattening where it is unsupported.
The foam eyebrows can be easily damaged. As soon as possible, secure them with a
single lay-up of mat, as shown in Figure 27.3. After the fiberglass cures, remove as much
foam as is practical from underneath the eyebrows to provide plenty of bounce and
steering clearance. The wheels will swing forward and rearward as they are steered. Steer
them through the full range of movement in order to verify adequate clearance. During
full bounce, the tires will move upward nearly 3 inches.
Front Bumper and Bumper Well -  Sheets 1  3
Trim the foam that extends past panel “A” according to the dimensions shown on Sheet
1. Figure 28.3 shows how the bumper well will look after it has been cut to shape across
the front. Use a Surfoam file to remove foam from the inside perimeter as shown in
Figure 29.3. The thickness at the leading edge is reduced to ½ inch, then the edge is
rounded.
Figure 28.3
Build the front bumper according to the dimensions on Sheet 3. Fiberglass the bumper
after the body is finished. That way you can shape it to fit snugly into the finished
bumper well. Leave enough clearance to allow for about 1/8 inch of fiberglass and filler
on the bumper.
40
Figure 29.3
Cooling Vents -  Sheets 1  4  8  13
Although the motorcycle occupies most of the space from panel “C” rearward, the engine
room is sectioned off at the rear by panel “D.” Cooling air is directed into the engine
room from underneath. Hot air is drawn out of the engine room at the top by rearward-
facing vents.
Begin the top vent by filing a recess into the foam as shown in Figure 30.3. Position the
forward edge of this recess 4 ½ inches ahead of panel “D.” File the recess through the
foam at the front, then blend it up to the surface as it extends rearward. Figure 31.3
shows the vent nearing completion. Nails are used to hold the foam outer cover in place
as it is shaped and blended into the body. File away as much foam as possible from
underneath the surface of the vent cover. Cement the cover to the body after it is
finished.
41
The rearward-facing side vents are aftermarket plastic louvers designed to fit the rear
quarter windows of the Datsun 280 ZX (1979-1983). Purchase the louvers then sand a
recess into the foam to a depth that will place the louver frames flush with the surface of
the body. Place one louver on each side of what will later become the upper engine room
cover. Position them with the rear edge 3 inches ahead of bulkhead “D.” Use small
sheet-metal screws to install them after the body is finished.
The aluminum scoops fit between the frame and the side of the body, one on each side.
The downward turned leading edge is located 2-4 inches behind bulkhead “C.” The
center area occupied by the motorcycle remains open on the bottom.
Rear Light Wells -  Sheets 1  6  8
The taillights mount to the portion of bulkhead “D” exposed inside the rearward-facing
nacelle on each side of the body. The treatment here is purely cosmetic and may be
changed to suite your own taste. Figure 32.3 shows the workman cementing a fillet into
place to level the inside of the tunnel. Install a similar fillet inside the upper portion of
each tunnel. Figure 33.3 shows the fillets in place on the opposite side. Notice that foam
has been filed from the inside surface of the nacelle so it presents a thin edge.
Canopy and Window Recesses -  Sheet 8
Window glazing is cut from ¼-inch polycarbonate then cemented and screwed into place
on the canopy. Naturally, the windows are installed after the body is finished, but the
foam must be prepared for them at this stage. The polycarbonate is ¼ inch thick, so the
window supporting flanges on the canopy must be recessed 1/4 inch below the adjacent
surfaces. This will place the windows flush with the fiberglass skin when they are finally
installed. See the section entitled Windows before proceeding.
The first step in locating the windows is to outline the perimeter of the canopy on the
foam using a black felt marker. Establish the rear edge of the canopy by drawing a line on
42
the foam even with the front surface of the plywood bulkhead “C.” This line should
extend across the roof, then down both sides to a point ½ inch above the seam between
panels “G” and “H.” Since bulkhead “C” will not be visible, it will have to be located by
pushing a nail through the foam until it contacts the plywood. Move the nail slightly
forward until it penetrates past the front surface of the bulkhead, then mark that point.
Do this at several points across the roof and down the sides. Connect these points with a
straight line drawn on the foam. This will trace the front surface of bulkhead “C.”
The next step is to trace a similar line across the cowl, which will establish the front edge
of the canopy. Place this line even with the rear surface of bulkhead “B,” which can be
located using a nail as described above. As this line drops over the edge of the body,
angle it rearward and down to a point ½ inch above the seam between panels “G” and
“H.” Connect the front and rear canopy edges by tracing a line ½ inch above this seam
along both sides of the body. The perimeter of the canopy will now be correctly located
on the body.
Use a Surform file or a sanding block to recess window engagement flanges on the
canopy. The window glazing comes flush with the edge of the canopy across the front,
along both lower sides, and up most of the rear. Windshield corner posts (A-pillars) are
1½ inches wide. The top of the windshield is 13½ inches ahead of the rear edge of the
canopy.
Figure 34.3 shows the workman beginning to put the windshield recess into the foam
using the lines on the canopy as a guide.
Figure 34.3
43
Figure 35.3 shows the finished window recesses at the front. Figure 36.3 shows them at
the rear. Notice that the rear canopy trim-line is sanded into the foam across the roof.
The trim line at the front is established by the front edge of the windshield.
Figure 35.3
Figure 36.3
44
Final Detailing
After all the elements have been sanded into the foam body, carefully inspect the surface
for consistency and detailing. The curvature of rounded seams on one side of the body
should match the curvature of the same seam on the other side. Check the body for
waves and dips. Eliminate sharp corners. It is acceptable to leave a crisp break in a
bodyline, but the crest of the break must be slightly softened by wiping it lightly with fine
sandpaper. For fine work, use a scrap piece of foam as a sanding block (no sandpaper,
just foam). Inspect the seams for cement protruding above the surface of the foam.
Remove excess cement with tweezers. Cement left protruding above the surface will keep
the fiberglass from lying smoothly over the foam. Figures 37.3, 38.3 and 39.3 show the
finished foam body ready to accept the fiberglass.
Note
Fiberglass will not
wrap over a sharp
corner. Even along a
crisp break in
bodylines, slightly
round the edge.
Figure 37.3
45
Note
Depressions along a
seam normally do not
cause a problem. Any
area that protrudes
above the surface,
however, should be
leveled before the
fiberglass is applied.
Figure 38.3
Figure 39.3
Fiberglass the Exterior
Cover the body with two lay-ups of 6-ounce glass cloth and polyester laminating resin.
Apply one lay-up, then return to the starting point and apply the second one. Apply the
fiberglass in sections according to the following photos. Drape the dry cloth over the
body, then notch and trim it as needed to get the material to lay smoothly in place.
Overlap adjoining sections at least 3 inches.
Catalyze an amount of resin that you can comfortably work in about 20 minutes. Apply
the catalyzed resin with a large paintbrush. Make sure the cloth is thoroughly saturated.
46
Dry areas will cause the cloth to delaminate from the foam later on. Remove wrinkles
and bubbles before the resin sets.
Beginning with either side, apply a lay-up over the nacelle from the front wheel well to the
rear light well, as shown in Figure 40.3. When both sides have been covered, go on to the
next lay-up, which covers the cowl, both sides ahead of the wheel wells, and most of the
windshield posts, as shown in Figure 41.3.
Note
Before applying resin,
notch and trim the
glass cloth as needed
to get it to follow the
shape of the body.
Where a gap exists in
the coverage, overlay it
with a small piece of
cloth after the lay-up is
finished.
Figure 42.3 shows the following lay-up, which covers the inside of the bumper well.
Figures 43.3 and 44.3 show separate views of the same lay-up, which consists of several
sections of cloth. Each side above the nacelle is covered by one section of material,
which overlaps onto the roof a few inches to cover the rear faring of the top vent.
Separate pieces of material then cover the rear between the vent faring, the roof, and the
two windshield posts. Figure 45.3 shows the lay-up covering the lower rear side panels,
and Figures 46.3 and 47.3 show the final exterior lay-ups. After the resin cures, use a
Surform file to remove clumps of resin from the surface, then return to the starting point
and apply the second lay-up. Figure 48.3 shows the fully fiberglassed exterior.
47
Note
Cut the windows out
after the fiberglass
cures. Leave a large
flange around
windows. Flanges are
trimmed to the
appropriate width
later.
Figure 48.3
48
Fiberglass Underneath
The body must be inverted or on its side in order to fiberglass underneath. Position of
the body as needed to provide easy access to the work. It is important, however, to
correctly support body until it is fully covered with fiberglass. It does not become fully
rigid until the foam has been fiberglassed on both sides. Until then, it will be easy to build
a distortion into the body. It must be supported at bulkhead locations when resting on
the floor. When suspended from the rafters, use the front bumper brackets and bulkhead
“D” as the load-bearing connection points.
The foam underneath must be smoothed and rounded at seams before the fiberglass is
applied. Use a razor knife to cut away fiberglass around the edges that was not properly
applied. The arrows in Figure 49.3 point to sections of panels “K” and “L” that must be
trimmed flush with the inside surface of the rear skirt. Round all seams between foam
panels using a small Surform file. In Figure 50.3, the workman is rounding the seam
between panels “G” and “H.”
Note
Remove bulkhead “E”
and discard it. A sharp
blow with a hammer
from behind will
dislodge it.
Note
Secure the bumper
support bracket by
fiberglassing it to the
outside walls of the
cabin, as indicated in
Figure 51.3.
Figure 51.3 52.3
49
Figure 51.3 shows how the wheel wells will look from underneath, and Figure 52.3 shows
how they should look after the foam has been rounded and blended. Glass the steel
bumper support member securely to panels “T.”
The workman in Figure 53.3 is trimming the lower edge from bulkhead “C” on each side
of the cabin. Use a belt sander to round all corners on the plywood cabin. Figure 54.3
shows a view of the cabin area after the corners have been rounded. As sections of the
body are detailed, they may be fiberglassed over. The body should be covered with two
mat and cloth lay-ups underneath, with the exception of the floorboard panel “W” and
the rear of bulkhead “C” where it makes contact with the mast. These areas should
receive two lay-ups of cloth only. This is done to avoid an excessive buildup of fiberglass
along areas where the body makes contact with the frame. If the fiberglass is too thick
along frame contact areas, it may be difficult to fit the body to the chassis later on.
Figure 55.3 shows a typical

method of propping the body
on its side so fiberglass can be
easily applied to the inside of
the nacelles. Put scraps of
foam under the body at the
front and rear (the front piece is
visible in the photo) so it
cannot rock front to rear.
Position the body so its weight
is resting squarely at bulkhead
“C.” To prevent damage, it is
best to rest the body on a scrap
piece of foam at bulkhead “C.” Figure 55.3
50
The workman is preparing to

fiberglass inside the engine
room in Figure 56.3. Remove
all foam from inside surfaces of
Note the flanges around the side
In Figure 56.3, the vents and gas cover. The inside
foam has been entirely lay-ups then extend onto these
removed from the thin fiberglass flanges to
flange around the gas entirely encapsulate the foam
cover and side vents.
and form a rigid flange around
openings. These flanges are
trimmed to about ½ inch wide,
as needed to support the
particular fixture from behind.
Continue detailing and
fiberglassing the underside until
there are no exposed areas of
foam or plywood. Figure 56.3
Remove Canopy -  Sheet 9
Note Before the canopy can be cut from the body, it must be reinforced with a steel
In Figure 57.3, much framework. To provide the necessary working room for installing it, invert the body and
of the underside of the chain it to the rafters, as shown in Figure 57.3. Use three separate lengths of chain.
body has been covered Connect one chain to each of the two front bumper support brackets. Bolt a length of
with filler. This was angle iron across the cutout in bulkhead “D,” then connect a third length of chain to the
done to avoid having
center of the angle iron to support the body at the rear.
to invert the body
again later on. If you
wish to finish the
underside at this time,
refer to the section
entitled Finishing.
Warning
Use chain of
adequate strength
and be sure the
rafters will support
the load. The body
will weigh 250
pounds or more at
this stage. A failure
of the supporting
structure could be
hazardous.
Figure 57.3
51
Remove the top portion of bulkhead “B,” then remove all foam from inside the canopy,
including about 1½ inch past the point of contact with bulkhead “C.” Apply two mat and
cloth fiberglass lay-ups to the inside. Figures 58.3 and 59.3 show the canopy at this stage.
The steel cage must be assembled in place. It cannot be installed as a unit. Make the
front and rear cross members then position them in the canopy. Figure 60.3 shows the
rear cross member in place. Position it 1¾ inches ahead of bulkhead “C” across the top.
A cross-sectional view of the rear of the finished canopy is shown on Sheet 9.
Note
Position the steel
tubing 1-3/4 inches
ahead of panel “C.”
The dimension given
on the cross-sectional
drawing on sheet 9 is
for the finished
canopy. Do not
confuse it with the
dimension provided
here.
Figure 60.3
52
Note
Accurately fit the steel
cage inside the canopy.
Its location should
allow the canopy to be
cut free along the
correct trim-line.
Figure 61.3
Fit the front member then lay it in place ½ inch behind the intended canopy trim-line at
the front, as shown in Figure 61.3. Fit and position the four longitudinal members, one
running front to rear along the lower edge on each side of the canopy and one inside each
windshield post. These members can be hand-bent to follow the contour of the canopy.
Tack-weld the assembly together inside the canopy. It is not necessary to securely weld
the cage. Fiberglass will hold the assembly together.
Fill gaps between the fiberglass and the steel cage by shredding mat and pressing it into
place. Saturate the mat with catalyzed resin. Another method is to make a paste of
shredded mat, Cab-O-Sil (a thixotropic agent) and resin. This paste is then catalyzed and
pressed into gaps using a putty knife or plastic squeegee. After filling the gaps, apply two
additional mat and cloth lay-ups over the entire inside of the canopy, encapsulating the
steel cage.
After the fiberglass cures, turn

the body upright and cut the
canopy free using a portable
reciprocating saw, as shown in
Figure 62.3. Along the window
areas, the cut-line should be the
base of the recess, just past the
radius. Across the top, the cut-
line is the deepest part of the
groove that was sanded into the
foam. Figure 63.3 shows the
inside of the canopy after it has
been cut from the body. Figure 62.3
53
Note
Flanges around the
canopy and window
openings must be
trimmed to the correct
width. See Windows
for the correct sizes.
Figure 63.3
Detail the Interior -  Sheet 9
With the canopy cut from the body, the interior can be detailed and finished. This
consists mainly of building the seats into the cabin and building the rain gutter around the
perimeter of the opening. Begin by cementing three laminations of 1-inch foam onto
bulkhead “C” according to the drawings on Sheet 9. Foam is also used in both the front
and rear corners of the floorboard (the bottom of the seat) to form the curvature across
the bottom of the seat.
Use foam as a temporary mold to build the rain gutter. Cement scraps of foam inside the
body along the edges of the canopy opening. Prop the canopy in place and use it as a
gauge to determine the precise shape and depth of the rain gutter, as shown in Figure
65.3. The rain gutter may be built in sections as shown in Figures 64.3 through 67.3.
Figure 64.3 shows the foam seats and the rear portions of the rain gutter ready to accept
the fiberglass.
54
Note
All fiberglass work
must be completed on
the canopy before
using it as a gauge in
forming the rain
gutter. Allow for a
finished gap of 1/8 to
¼ inch between the
edge of the canopy
and the edge of the
body. Use a belt
sander to remove
material from around
the edges of the
canopy and/or the
canopy opening, as
needed to provide for
the finished gap.
Figure 64.3
Cover the seating area with two lay-ups of mat and cloth. Stop the mat at the edge of the
seat and allow only the cloth to extend over the return around the top of the seat (top rain
gutter). Let the cloth extend about 2 inches onto the exterior skin of the body. This
encapsulates the foam seat so it becomes a permanent part of the body.
As stated earlier, the foam along the rain gutter serves only as a temporary mold. Apply
two lay-ups of cloth to the outside surfaces of the rain gutter. Let the cloth extend about
2 inches onto the outside surface of the body. After the fiberglass cures, remove the
foam from behind the rain gutter, then apply two mat and cloth lay-ups along the inside
55
surface to build up the rigidity from behind. Figure 67.3 shows the interior nearing
completion.
Figure 67.3
Canopy Fixtures -  Sheets 9  10  13
Although the plans give dimensions, the canopy fixtures should be hand-fitted to the
vehicle. Install the canopy hinges first. That will correctly locate and fix the position of
the canopy so the other fixtures can be accurately fitted. Because the canopy is equipped
with two separate hinges, the hinges must be carefully built and installed or the assembly
could bind or fail to hold the canopy in the correct position when closed. It is important
that the right and left hinges rotate on the same axis. An imaginary line through the
center of one hinge pin should project through the center of the other hinge pin. And
when closed, the canopy must line up with the body around the edges of the opening. To
achieve a good fit, assemble and fit the hinges according to the following instructions.
The first step is to fabricate the nut plates then weld them in place on the steel frame
embedded in the front of the canopy. Simply grind away the fiberglass to expose the
steel, then fiberglass over the nut plates after the welds cool. The center-to-center spacing
of the hinges is 30¾ inches. Be sure to locate the nut plates so the hinge bodies will come
in contact with an area between the screws. Screw 3/8-inch bolts into the holes in the nut
plates to keep resin out of the threads. Figure 68.3 shows the left nut plate area after it
has been covered with body filler.
56
Warning
Fiberglass is a
flammable material.
Consequently, use
only an arc welder
when welding next
to fiberglass. A gas
welder will apply
undue heat, which
will damage the
surrounding
fiberglass and
possibly cause a fire.
Cool the tack welds
with water
immediately after
welding. Next, position and install the hinges. Assemble the hinges, but do not weld the butt
plates in place. Glass the hinges into the body first. The hinges must be glassed in place
with the hinge pins in alignment. If the right and left hinges do not rotate around the
same axis, damage to the canopy or the hinges could occur. To insure alignment, replace
the separate hinge pins with a single length of 3/8-inch steel rod extending through both
hinges. This will align the rotational axis. Temporarily tack-weld a length of angle iron
between the hinges to hold them in alignment (Figure 69.3), then remove the long 3/8-
inch rod and reinstall the separate hinge pins. Install the hinge assemblies as a unit. Break
the tack welds and remove the temporary angle iron brace after the resin cures.
Note
The center-to-center
distance between the
right and left hinge
body is 30¾ inches.
Figure 70.3 shows the
right hinge assembly
after it has been
glassed into the body.
Embed the large base
plate into the
fiberglass, then apply
fiberglass both
underneath and over
the top to securely
hold it in place.
Locate the hinges so
the hinge bodies will
contact the nut plates
when the canopy is in
place.
Figure 70.3
57
The final step is to correctly attach the butt plates to the hinges. To do this, screw the
butt plates in place on the canopy, then set the canopy in place on the body. Make sure
the gap is even around the edges. If needed, place shims between the body and the
canopy to hold the canopy flush with the exterior skin of the body. When the canopy is
perfectly lined up, swing the hinges against the butt plates and tack weld them in place.
Immediately cool the welds with water, then carefully remove the canopy and finish the
welds. The hinge pins may have to be removed in order to remove the canopy.
Note Reinstall the canopy and check the operation of the hinges. If the front of the canopy
The canopy swings contacts the body as it opens, grind away fiberglass across the front of the canopy (and/or
forward as it moves body) as needed to provide adequate clearance. If the gap becomes excessive, you can let
up. Because the the windshield extend past the edge at the front and hide the gap (see Note o the left).
glazing (windshield) is
level with the exterior
Figures 71.3 and 72.3 show the left nitrogen cylinder in place. It is important to locate the
surface, it will clear the
body first. As a result, connection points so the nitrogen cylinders become fully extended just before the canopy
the gap between the hinges come in contact with the rain gutter across the front. Otherwise the hinges could
body and the glazing swing against the rain gutter and damage the fiberglass. When the canopy is closed, the
can be much smaller nitrogen cylinders should just clear the top of the wheel wells (Figure 72.3).
than the gap between
the body and the
leading edge of the
canopy itself. To hide
an excessively large
gap at the front, let the
windshield glazing
extend beyond the
front of the canopy.
The canopy latch components (a hood latch from a VW Beetle) are shown installed in
Figures 73.3 and 74.3. Notice that the component glassed to the body in Figure 73.3 is
located just below the top surface behind the seat. The short lever extending forward is
used to unlatch the canopy from inside. Use a pull-cable to unlatch it from outside the
vehicle. The cable may be located underneath one of the wheel wells, or it may be
attached to the frame just inside the gas cover. Keep the cable as short as possible to
avoid undue friction in the system.
58
Headlight Assembly -  Sheets 1  9  11  13
Locate the headlight openings on the cowl according to the dimensions shown on Sheet
1. Use a portable reciprocating saw to cut the openings in the body. Save the pieces cut
from the body. They will be used to make the light buckets.
Reinforce the pieces cut from the light openings with two lay-ups of cloth on the outside.
After the fiberglass cures, peel the foam away from underneath, then build up the rigidity
with two lay-ups of mat applied to the inside. Figure 75.3 shows the headlight covers
ready for fiberglass underneath. After the fiberglass cures, glue the Masonite sections in
place, then apply a single lay-up of cloth to both the outside and inside surfaces of the
Masonite to bond the assembly together.
Remove foam from between the outer and inner skin around the edges of the headlight
openings in the body. Remove foam to a depth of ¼ inch, then fill the cavity with lay-ups
of mat as needed to bring the edges flush with the openings again. This will bond the
outer and inner skin together and form a rigid frame around the openings. The next step
59
is to build a small flange along both sides of each opening. Using the light buckets as a
gauge, build the flanges at the position required to hold the light buckets flush with the
exterior skin. A finished light opening is shown in Figure 76.3.
Install the hinges and actuating mechanism to complete the assembly. Just as with the
canopy hinges, the light bucket hinges must rotate around a common axis. Use the
crossbar to tie the two hinges together, then install them as an assembly. The right hinge
and the crossbar are visible in Figure 70.3. Glass the hinge assemblies to the underside of
the cowl, then fit the light buckets. To accurately fit the light buckets to the hinges, put
the buckets in place in the openings, then reach in from behind and apply a thin layer of
body filler over the portions of the hinges that rest against the sides of the buckets. When
the body filler cures, it will cement the hinges in place at the correct location. Remove the
light buckets by removing the hinge pins, then use pop rivets to permanently secure the
hinges.
Figure 77.3 shows the lights open and the bumper in place. Notice that wells are cut into
the foam bumper to provide room for the lights. Figure 78.3 shows the lights closed and
the bumper removed. Clearances are very close around panel “A.” The assembly will
have to be hand-fitted to get it to work smoothly. The actuating mechanism is bolted to
the flange across the front of the canopy opening. It works against the center of the
single crossbar connecting the two light assemblies together.
Engine Room Cover -  Sheets 1  9  13
Use a felt marker to outline the engine room cover (drawings refer to the cover as
“Hatch”) on the body, then cut it free with a portable reciprocating saw. Locate the front
of the cover 2½ inches behind the canopy opening across the top. Bring the trim line
straight down both sides, then carry it rearward ½ inch above the seam between panels
“G” and “H” just as you did with the canopy. The trim line across the rear falls 2½
inches ahead of the seam between the roof panel and the rear cap on the body. As the
rear line drops over the sides angle it slightly forward. Round corners as desired.
60
Figure 79.3 shows the engine room cover after it has been cut from the body. Notice that
part of panel “D” is left in place on the cover. This serves as a gusset to keep the cover
from spreading across the bottom. At this stage, raw foam will be exposed along the trim
line. Remove the foam from between the outer and inner skin to a depth of about ¼
inch, then apply three lay-ups of mat along the recess. This will cover the foam and bond
the inner and outer skin together along the edges. A cross-section view of the edge is
shown on Sheet 9.
Figure 79.3
Note
The waxed Masonite
will leave a deposit of
wax on the fiberglass.
Wax must be removed
before applying
fiberglass to the
backside of the flange.
To remove the wax,
wipe the fiberglass
with acetone, then
sand with coarse
sandpaper.
To form the flange at the front and rear of the engine room, cement lengths of heavily
waxed Masonite along the inside of the opening according to Figure 80.3. Put ¼ inch
spacers between the Masonite and the inside skin to displace the flange ¼ inch to the
61
inside. Apply two mat and cloth lay-ups to the outside as shown in Figure 81.3. After the
fiberglass cures, dislodge the Masonite, then apply two mat and cloth lay-ups to the inside.
Make a similar flange across the front.
Figures 82.3 through 85.3 show the various fixtures required for the removable engine
room cover. The 1/8-inch plate projecting forward of the front edge in Figure 82.3 must
be bent to fit snuggly under the flange on the body. The rear latch assembly, shown in
Figures 83.3 and 84.3, is a cable-operated hood latch from a VW Beetle. Locate the cable
handle inside the cabin or under one of the wheel wells. Figure 85.3 shows the fuel cover.
Glass a steel plate underneath the cover, then screw the cover to the steel plate.
Note
The attachment
fixtures shown to the
right result in a
removable engine
room cover. As an
alternative, the cover
may be hinged to pivot
forward or to one side.
62
Finishing
Before the body can be painted, the surface must be leveled and filled. Irregularities are
covered with a surfacer, then the surface is leveled and sanded smooth. The filler and the
techniques used to finish Tri-Magnum’s body are the same as those used by body shops
to repair collision damage. Filler is available under several brand names such as “Bondo”
and “Slik.” This resin-based material adheres well to fiberglass, and it provides an easily
sanded surface. The quantity required to finish your vehicle will depend on the degree of
roughness of the surface. Also, experienced users tend to use less material than someone
who is inexperienced. Begin with a single five gallon pail (single gallons cost more), then
purchase more if necessary.
Before applying the surfacer, use a disc sander to remove bubbles and rough spots on the
surface of the body. If you sand through to the foam, patch the area by pressing
shredded mat into the foam and saturating it with resin. The patch should extend under
the skin about ¼ inch beyond the edge of the hole.
Mix the catalyst into the filler according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Mix a small
Note amount at a time; about as much as will fit on a one-foot square pallet. Apply and
The working and setup smooth the filler with a plastic squeegee. The application should be no thicker than is
times quoted in the
needed to fill the weave of the cloth and cover surface shallows. Clean filler from tools
text are about normal.
Body filler, however, is and hands with acetone. By allowing residual filler on a plastic squeegee to set, it can be
very catalyst-sensitive. easily peeled away before it fully hardens.
You can reduce the
working time to less Working time for correctly catalyzed filler is about 15 minutes. When it begins to harden,
than 5 minutes, or it sets up rapidly and becomes too thick to spread within about 30 seconds. Shortly after
increase it to over 30 it sets, the material will reach a state of hardness wherein it can be easily shaped with a
minutes by adjusting Surform file. Use the file at this stage to remove excess material and level the surface.
the amount of catalyst. The correct state of hardness is indicated by how well the material files. If the filler tends
Work small areas at a to granulate or rub off the surface, it is not hard enough to file. If the file bites well into
time.
the filler, peeling off small curled strips about the size of the teeth on the file, then it is
just right. When the file starts to skip across the surface without biting into the filler, the
material is too hard and you will have to use a sander to complete any work that is still
remaining. If large areas set up before you can completely level the surface with the body
file, use a vibrator or disc sander and 36-grit sandpaper. Do not be concerned with
sanding scratches at this stage. They will be removed later.
Note Use a vibrator sander with 80-grit sandpaper to remove file marks and minor waves and
Block sanding by hand dips in the surface. Sighting across the surface or simply wiping the palm of your hand
is the most effective across the body will locate waves and ripples. It often helps to put a straightedge against
method of eliminating the body to verify what your other senses tell you about the surface. Fill low areas with
waves that are often body filler, then sand smooth. Move the sander vertically, then horizontally across waves
missed by a vibrator
to smooth them out.
sander.
Figure 86.3 shows how the filler is carried across the rain gutter. There is no need to
apply filler to the inside of the cabin. It will be covered with upholstery later on. Notice
the relatively sharp edges around the rain gutter. By leaving the edges sharp, it is much
easier to avoid waves along the edges. Sharp edges are slightly rounded later by block
sanding lightly with fine sandpaper.
63
Figure 86.3
Figure 87.3
64
Figure 87.3 shows the canopy in place. Notice that it is recessed ¼ inch along the lower
edges and up most of the rear. This is done to allow for the thickness of the window,
which is designed to rest flush with the exterior of the body.
When the finish has been brought to a state where the irregularities are no more than 20
mils deep, the entire body is sprayed with Eliminator or Featherfil. These are brand
names of products that consist primarily of body filler that has been thinned to a
sprayable consistency. Coating the body with one of these products will provide a thin,
easily sanded surface that will eliminate the remaining imperfections in the finish. Block-
sand this last coating for a ripple-free finish. Begin with 180-grit paper, then finish with
220-grit. In figure 88.3, the lower half of the body has already been coated with
Eliminator, and the top half is ready to receive it.
Note
The plastic louvered
quarter-window cover
is temporarily in place
to check fit. It will not
have been installed at
this stage.
Figure 88.3
Although the instructions indicate that you can paint directly over Featherfil and
Eliminator, we recommend that you primer the body before painting it. Use a contrasting
color so you can spot imperfections in the finish as you sand. Wet-sand the primer with
320-grit paper. When you are finished sanding, go over the finish and check for small
holes and nicks. Fill them with spot putty, then sand the areas smooth after the putty
cures.
The paint most easily applied by the novice is lacquer. Unless you are a professional, do
not attempt a metallic color. Metallic paints require precise technique and good
equipment. Thin the lacquer according to instructions, then spray on about three coats.
Let the lacquer dry overnight, wet-sand with 400-grit paper (just enough to remove the
roughness), then spray on three more coats. Let the lacquer cure overnight, then wet-
sand lightly with 600-grit paper. Use a buffer and rubbing compound to bring out the
gloss. Set the buffer on low speed, then move it in broad, sweeping motions across the
finish. Do not apply pressure to the finish. Just lightly sweep across the surface. Take
special care around corners to avoid burning through the paint.
65
Final Assembly
These final details go quickly, and you’ll soon be driving your creation
T
he most pleasurable part of building Tri-Magnum is this final stage of assembling
I N T H I S
it into a real, working vehicle. With most of the dirty work already finished, you
C H A P T E R can take your time and enjoy the results as Tri-Magnum rapidly transforms into a
How to install the body truly magnificent machine.
Control system details
Mate Body to Chassis
Window installation
Upholstery techniques After the body has been painted, re-mate it to the chassis. Place ¼-inch thick rubber
weather strip on the frame along areas of contact with the body. This will reduce the
Tips on engine cooling
transfer of high frequency vibrations into the body. The body is secured at the front by
Achieving a factory look four 3/8-inch bolts; two in each of the bumper support brackets. It is secured at the rear
by two 3/8-inch bolts through the lower part of bulkhead “D;” one bolt on each side.
Secure bulkhead “C” to the mast using a single 3/8-inch bolt. This bolt may be placed at
any convenient point along the upper half of the mast. Use self-locking nuts and lock
washers.
Controls -  Sheets 1  11 12  13
The body must be in place on the chassis before the controls can be fitted. The controls
consist of the brakes, throttle, clutch, shifter, instruments, and switches, and the steering
assembly. The brake pedal and master cylinder along with the throttle pedal mount to a
fabricated steel plate, which is fiberglassed onto the floor between bulkheads “A” and
“B.” This places the two controls in a conventional automotive location.
Note
Figure 1.4 shows the
mounting plate, and
Figure 2.4 shows it
glassed into place on
the floor. The holes,
visible in Figure 1.4,
are designed to let
fiberglass penetrate
through the plate at
several points to
securely bond it to the
floor.
66
Connect the steel brake lines, then bleed the brakes according to the instructions in the
section entitled Brakes. The throttle cable is a standard motorcycle cable assembly, which
can be made up by your local motorcycle dealer.
Build the shifter according to the drawings on Sheet 11. It bolts to the floor from
underneath and protrudes into the cabin. It utilizes a long connecting rod to operate the
standard motorcycle foot control, which has been removed and re-installed backwards
(with the foot peg pointing toward the inside). The shift lever carries the two handlebar
switch assemblies and the clutch lever, all of which are taken from the motorcycle. Splice
in extra wire, one wire at a time, so the switches will reach their new location on the
cabin-mounted shift lever. An extra long clutch cable will also be required. A local
motorcycle dealer should be able to make it up in any length necessary. Secure the cable
and wire looms to the chassis. The shifter assembly is shown in Figures 3.4 and 4.4.
Power the headlights, turn signals, and taillights with the original leads used to power
these fixtures on the motorcycle. A repair manual covering your motorcycle will help in
identifying the correct leads. Be sure to run separate ground leads from fiberglass-
mounted electrical fixtures to the ground circuit of the motorcycle.
The original Tri-Magnum was equipped with the stock KZ900 instrument cluster and
indicator lights. A new tachometer cable, long enough to span the distance between the
engine and the instrument cluster, can be made by a local motorcycle dealer. In Tri-
Magnum, the standard motorcycle speedometer is driven by the left front wheel, which is
already set up to accept a cable drive. But the VW speedometer is calibrated for one
revolution of the cable revolution per revolution of the wheel and the motorcycle
speedometer will be calibrated for roughly three revolutions of the cable per revolution of
the wheel. To account for this difference, use an in-line speedometer ratio adaptor. Have
your local speedometer shop make a cable assembly with a VW pickup at the wheel and a
ratio adaptor with the correct gearing needed to duplicate the input of your motorcycle
speedometer in its original application.
The steering column is designed to pivot upward so the steering assembly is out of the
way when you get into or out of the car. The assembly must latch in place when it is
67
down in the driving position. Dimensions are shown on Sheet 12. When fitting the
assembly to your vehicle, be sure to align the swing axis of the housing with that of the
universal joint at the end of the steering column. If both components do not rotate
around the same axis, the assembly will bind during operation. Use self-locking nuts and
lock washers on all steering components. Figure 5.4 shows the steering housing in the
down and locked position. Figure 6.4 shows the housing pivoted up (shown from the
opposite direction of the photo in Figure 5.4).
Warning
Locate the steering
box so the shaft is in
line with the steering
column, then tighten
the steering box
clamp and secure the
bolts with the bend-
up tabs under the
bolts. Weld the
steering box clamp
to the axle beam to
prevent further
movement. Align
the front suspension
to factory
specifications after Figure 5.4 Figure 6.4
the vehicle is
finished. Remove the steering column assembly to install the upholstery. Instrument drive cables
Periodically inspect and wire looms are taped together, then routed as a unit through the floor near the
the bolts in the steering box. Secure the cable assembly in a position that will avoid undue stress as the
universal joint steering assembly is rotated through its full range of movement. The hole in the floor
during the first few
thousand miles of
may be covered with a flexible vinyl boot, or you can build a rigid fiberglass or metal
operation. cover that can be screwed to the floor. Be sure that cable and wire looms do not become
entangled in the steering assembly. Do not close the canopy with the steering assembly
pivoted up because the steering wheel may contact with the windshield.
Upholstery
Installing the upholstery is a relatively straightforward job. But have a professional sew
the large pleated section that covers the seat. Make a pattern of this area in your vehicle,
then add an extra 4 or 5 inches around the edges. If the pleated panel is made oversize, it
can be trimmed to fit as it’s installed. In the prototype Tri-Magnum, the pleated section
measured 44 inches wide by 54 inches long, which was made as a large rectangle with the
pleats on 1½-inch centers. There is no need to have the edges finished because the panel
is trimmed around the edges as it is installed.
Note
If you cannot find ply- The first step is to install ply-grip strip (available from your local upholstery shop) across
grip locally, purchase it the top as shown in Figure 7.4. Use a pop rivet in each of the holes provided.
from H&R Sales in
Phoenix, Arizona (see Use 3M #74 Foam and Fabric Adhesive (in the spray cans) to cement 1-inch foam in
Vendor List). place as shown in Figure 8.4. Notice that the inside edge of the foam follows the line
68
across the rear bulkhead where the urethane blends into the plywood. Use an electric
knife to cut the foam. Figure 9.4 shows the vinyl partially installed over the foam. Use
the #74 spray adhesive to cement the vinyl to the foam. Trim the vinyl about 1 inch
oversize across the top, then secure it by bending the ply-grip over to capture the edge of
the vinyl. Put pre-made vinyl welt into the jaws of the ply-grip as they are closed. This
gives the edge a finished, sewn look.
Figure 7.4
Install ply-grip strip along the perimeter of the pleated area of the seat as shown in Figure
10.4. Take special care to get the ply-grip symmetrical across the top. Install it over the
vinyl, just at the edge of the foam underneath. Again, be sure to secure it with a pop rivet
in each of the holes provided. Use the spray adhesive to cement 1-inch foam over the
entire area bordered by the ply-grip strip.
69
Note
Place a pop-rivet in
each of the holes
provided when
installing the ply-grip.
Figure 10.4
The final section of vinyl to be installed is the large pleated panel that covers the seating
area. Test fit the panel before applying the cement. Remove the shift lever (do not
unbolt the bracket, just remove the 3/8-inch pin from underneath), then lay the
upholstery panel in place over the foam and carefully position it so the pleats are running
straight across from side to side. Check to see that the panel is centered with an equal
amount of excess material around the edges. Do not attempt to trim the panel to fit at
this point. Instead, place alignment marks on the material and the foam or body using a
grease pencil, then remove the pleated upholstery panel.
Apply the spray adhesive to the surface of the foam and to the backside of the pleated
upholstery panel. When the adhesive tacks off, carefully position the vinyl and press it
into place over the foam. It is best to start at the top and work down. Take special care
to get the material aligned with the grease pencil marks. Do not allow the vinyl to touch
the foam until it is perfectly aligned. If it touches, it will stick, which means that you
might have to tear the foam to separate the pleated panel.
70
After the vinyl has been cemented in place, begin at any convenient point and trim and
secure the edge with ply-grip as you work around the perimeter. Cut the vinyl oversize to
provide enough material to wrap over the ply-grip and into the jaws. It will take more
material than one might think. Consequently, add about 1 inch to the excess amount that
seems appropriate, then trim more from the edge if necessary. Do not put the scrim into
the ply-grip. (“Scrim” is the foam material sewn to the back of the vinyl when it is
pleated.) Pull the scrim back and let the jaws of the ply-grip grab directly onto the vinyl.
Work short lengths of the perimeter at a time. Push pre-made welt into the ply-grip as
the jaws are closed onto the vinyl. Figure 11.4 shows the pleated panel partially installed.
Note
Do not put the
“scrim” into the jaws
of the ply-grip. Ply-
grip will not hold onto
the scrim. Scrim is the
padding that is sewn to
the back of the pleated
vinyl.
Caution
Avoid trimming too
much from the pleated
panel as it is installed.
More excess material
will be required that it
might appear.
Figure 11.4
Figure 12.4 shows the finished interior. Cement carpet in place to cover the remainder of
the interior. If butt-seams are accurately cut in the carpet, they will not be visible. A
carpeted kick-panel made of plywood or Masonite covers the area ahead of the foot
controls.
Cement aftermarket automotive weather strip into the rain gutter. This material should
be available at a local supplier of aftermarket auto accessories.
71
Figure 12.4
WINDOWS -  Sheet 13
Note The window glazing for the prototype was cut from ¼-inch polycarbonate sheet. This
If you live in the States material is available under the brand names of “Tuffak” and “Lexan.” Acrylic sheet may
of Maryland or be substituted. Acrylic costs less than polycarbonate, but it does not resist scratches
Pennsylvania, check nearly as well. Either material will meet the legal requirements of a motorcycle
with your local windshield.
officials before
installing To prepare the canopy for the window glazing, trim the flange along the windshield posts
polycarbonate or to 5/8 inch. The flange across the top of the windshield should measure 1 inch. Paint
acrylic window glazing.
the inside of the canopy and the areas of contact with the window glazing flat black.
Make cardboard patterns of the window openings then transfer these patterns to the
paper mask on the glazing material. Cut the windows about 1/16 inch undersize. The
material is easily cut using a circular saw equipped with a fine-tooth blade. Use a portable
reciprocating saw to round the corners. Finish the edges with a belt sander. The
windows should fit snugly in place leaving a 1/16-inch gap between the edge of the
glazing and the edge of the recess in the canopy. The windows should come flush with
72
the edge of the canopy across the front, along the bottom-sides, and up the rear. If you
have a large gap at the front between the body and the canopy, you can hide it by letting
the windshield extend slightly past the edge of the canopy.
Note Glazing material is installed using General Electric Black Silicone Auto Seal along the
To install the window areas of contact with the canopy. The windows are secured with #8 flush-head screws.
glazing, drill & tap for Pre-drill the holes and fit the windows before installing them with the black silicone.
screws where steel Place screws on 4¼-inch centers across the bottom of the windshield, and on 8½-inch
tubing exists centers across the top. Place them on 12-inch centers along the windshield posts and
underneath the
around the perimeter of the side windows. Drill holes in the glazing material slightly
fiberglass. Thread the
window hold-down oversize to avoid a tight fit at screws.
screws into the steel.
Use sheet metal screws Screw the windows in place, then use a razor to cut through the paper mask around the
along the fiberglass inside edges. Remove the windows, then remove the paper mask around the edges to
flanges. Let screws expose the glazing material along the bonding surface. Leave the rest of the mask in place
self-thread through the to protect the glazing material. Apply the silicone to the canopy, then immediately screw
fiberglass. Grind off the windows into place. Wipe excess silicone from around the outside and inside edges.
the part of the screws Let the material cure overnight then remove the paper mask.
that penetrate through
to the inside. Paint
ENGINE COOLING -  Sheet 13
screws flat black.
Air cooled motorcycle engines are of the “free air” design. This means that there is no
fan to force air across the cooling fins of the engine. Engines of this type normally rely
on the relative wind caused by the motion of the vehicle to provide the required airflow
across the cooling fins. Because the motorcycle is now enclosed, there will be no relative
wind unless you design elements into the vehicle to create the required airflow. This is
what we have done with the Tri-Magnum design.
Note
You will need access
from underneath for
servicing. Cut holes of
adequate size into the
aluminum, then make
doors to cover the
holes. The doors may
be secured with
quarter-turn fasteners.
Figure 13.4
73
Caution To control the flow of air, the engine compartment is bordered at the front by bulkhead “C”
Install a cylinder head and at the rear by bulkhead “D.” Ambient air is forced into the compartment by aluminum
temperature gauge to scoops at the bottom. There is one on each side, which covers the area between the frame and
monitor the the side of the body, and extends rearward to bulkhead “D” (see Figure 13.4). The center is left
temperature of the open underneath the motorcycle. Hot air is drawn out of the compartment by the rearward-
engine and verify that facing vents built into the upper engine room cover.
adequate airflow has
been established. Install an electric automobile radiator fan to provide air flow at idle, or when extra cooling
Check with the is indicated by the cylinder head temperature gauge. Mount the fan to the tripod mast
manufacturer for the
directly ahead of the engine.
recommended cylinder
head temperature.
Engine oil is also a vital part of the cooling system of a motorcycle engine. Install an
aftermarket oil cooler. A kit designed to fit your motorcycle will be available at your local
motorcycle dealer. Mount the cooler core away from hot engine parts and in a location
that will provide ample airflow.
Detailing the Vehicle
Often, the difference between a vehicle that looks homemade and one that has a factory-
finished appearance is little more than attention to detail. The aluminum cover plate and
the black, screw-on knob shown in Figure 14.4 give a finished appearance to the canopy
latch assembly. Figure 15.4 shows the finished gas cover. Rubber U-molding finishes the
edge of the opening, and it also cushions the door as it closes to avoid the sound of metal
slamming against the unprotected fiberglass.
The prototype Tri-Magnum is painted metallic pewter, which is accented with black trim.
This black and pewter theme is carried throughout the vehicle to give it a tied-together
appearance. Figures 16.4 through 19.4 show close-up views of various features where
black is used to accent the pewter. Notice the foam rubber grip (a “Grab-On” bicycle
handlebar grip) on the nitrogen cylinder in Figure 17.4. Although not really necessary, it
helps finish the interior, and it provides a cushioned grab point for raising and lowering
the canopy.
74
The side trim shown in figure 20.4 is made from black automotive trim tape. The center
section, which carries the name “Tri-Magnum,” is cut from 3-inch wide material. It is
bordered along the top and bottom with ¼-inch tape.
Trimming the vehicle is one of the most pleasurable parts of the project. Once started,
however, it is easy to become carried away. With each new finishing detail, the car seems
to look much more attractive. This is an addicting process, and the tendency is to add so
much trim that the natural beauty of the vehicle is lost. It’s best to keep the trim simple
and tasteful. In fact, the trend today is toward a plainer look where appointments are
finished in the same color as the car. Often, texture is the only cosmetic differentiation
between different components. A similar treatment might be used with Tri-Magnum.
75
Figure 20.4
Figure 21.4
76
License & Operation

Tri-Magnum is classified as a motorcycle in most countries, including the U.S.
V
ehicles that are operated on the public roadways must have a title and a license.
With homebuilt vehicles, both the title and the license come from a state or
regional agency. In the U.S., homebuilt vehicles are regulated on a state level
and must comply with the regulations of the state in which they are licensed.
Note They are not federally regulated.
To avoid costly
mistakes, determine
which standards will Normally, a vehicle does not have to meet any regulations, nor even to work, in order to
apply to your vehicle become a titled entity. In order to operate on the public roadways, however, the vehicle
before you begin must be appropriately equipped and licensed. A license will be issued on a homebuilt
construction. That vehicle as long as it meets applicable standards of construction and is equipped according
way, they can be to local requirements. The best way to find out which standards apply to your vehicle is
accounted for as the to visit the local agency in charge of inspecting and licensing homebuilt vehicles. In the
vehicle is built. U.S, this will most likely be a state agency entitled “Department of Motor Vehicles” or
“Motor Vehicle Department.” Most such agencies can provide a booklet outlining the
required equipment and the correct procedures for obtaining a title and a license.
Obtaining a Title
Before your finished vehicle can be licensed, you must first obtain a title. To obtain a title
in the U.S., you will have to present receipts for all components and materials to the
appropriate state agency. In most states, however, the titling agency will accept a title
bond in place of the receipts. Purchase the title bond. It will save hours of time pouring
over receipts with an official in order to document ownership of the vehicle. Save all
receipts because they will be the only proof that you actually own the vehicle.
Obtaining a License
On a federal level, three wheel cars do not exist in the U.S. If a light duty vehicle operates
with not more than three wheels in contact with the ground, it is classified as a
motorcycle. Homebuilt three-wheelers are regulated on a state level, and requirements
differ slightly between states. Significant differences exist between the requirements that
apply to four wheel cars and those that apply to three wheel vehicles. In general, three-
wheelers can use acrylic window glazing (or none at all), they need only a single headlight
and taillight fixture, and they are not required to be equipped with wipers, defrosters,
vehicle-width bumpers, fenders, and seat belts. Motorcycle emissions standards are also
less stringent, or not controlled at all. However, some of the foregoing may not apply
universally in all states. For example, a vehicle built by a resident of Maryland or
Pennsylvania may have to be equipped with a laminated safety plate windshield and
windshield wipers. Seat belts may be required in some states, even though seat belt
77
standards do not apply to motorcycles. And your state may require that the headlights
Note automatically come on when the engine is started.
If engine-on headlights
are required in your None of these variations in state-level motor vehicle standards will make it difficult to
state, you can install an obtain a license, provided you know the requirements from the beginning. Unnecessary
extra headlight in the
difficulties could develop, however, if a builder proceeds without knowledge of the motor
center of the front
bumper and wire it to vehicle standards in their particular state. Before beginning construction, visit the agency
come on with the responsible for inspecting and licensing specially constructed vehicles and pick up a copy
engine. This will avoid of the pamphlet containing equipment requirements for three wheelers. That way, local
having to extend the requirements can be accounted for as your vehicle is built.
normal headlights
during daytime driving. Operation
See Dan Hoffine’s Tri-
Magnum in the Gallery The most unusual feature of operating Tri-Magnum is the shifter and clutch arrangement.
section of our website.
However, it is a feature to which you will adapt quite rapidly. The shift lever operates the
motorcycle foot shifter, so the shift sequence will be the same as that of the motorcycle.
To shift to the next lower gear, push forward on the lever, then release it to the neutral
position. To shift up to the next gear, pull back on the lever and release it. Squeeze the
clutch lever when shifting to disengage the clutch.
Do not push the vehicle until you become acquainted with its handling under various
driving and road conditions. If your vehicle is based on one of the larger motorcycles, it
will have plenty of excess power. As with any other high-performance vehicle, an
abundance of excess power is both good and bad, depending on how you use it.
During the first few hours of operation, keep a close watch on the cylinder head
temperature. If you have followed the plans and installed the proper ducting, the engine
should be adequately cooled. Your local motorcycle dealer should be able to provide the
correct operating temperatures for your particular engine.
For the first few thousand miles of operation, do a nightly check of the vehicle for loose
nuts and bolts. If you forget to properly tighten or secure a fastener, it should become
apparent early on. It is especially important to check steering and suspension fastener.
Make sure that the lock-down screw on the large nuts that secure the front wheel bearings
is appropriated tightened. An unsecured wheel bearing nut could result in a lost front
wheel.
Be sure the steering column is securely locked in the driving position before operating the
vehicle. Operating the vehicle with the steering column unlatched can result in a loss of
control. Do not close the canopy with the steering column in the “up” position. The
steering column must be down in the driving position to avoid contact with the
windshield when the canopy is closed. If the canopy is closed while the steering column
is pivoted upward, it could crack the windshield.
78

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ROBERT Q.

Tri-Magnum: Excitement on Three Wheels

 Copyright 1997 Robert Q. Riley Enterprises, LLC

Specifications 13 Final Assembly 66

Chassis Construction 17 License & Operation 77

Three Wheel Vehicle

Factors That Determine A Vehicle’s Rollover Threshold

On the most fundamental level, resistance to rollover is determined by the relationship

L/H Ratio Determines Rollover Threshold

Body Roll Moves CG Slightly to Outside

Lateral Force Across cg

Comparison of Typical Rollover Threshold by Vehicle Type

The foregoing analysis, however, produces an accurate indication of a vehicle’s resistance

A simple L/H ratio analysis therefore provides only an approximation of a vehicle’s

Special Considerations of Three Wheel Vehicles

Base Cone Analysis for Three Wheel vehicles

Note Turn Direction

combined forces of the

downward and the Resultant of % Wheelbase

plane at a 45-degree angle. CG (Center of Gravity)

The actual vector, however, Resultant of Lateral

adhesion limits of the tires.

Effective Half-Tread (L)

Effective Half Tread and Center of Gravity Location

Understeer and Oversteer

In order to understand the understeer/oversteer characteristics of a vehicle, one must first

The natural understeer/oversteer tendency of a vehicle can be modified in a number of

Tri-Magnum has a significant degree of natural understeer, which is ameliorated by its

As a final note, it is important to understand that an understeering vehicle is not

Low Polar Moment of Inertia

The attribute most responsible Polar Moment of Inertia

length, such as is typically done

Conclusions and Recommendations

 Motorcycle drive train attributes

Motorcycle Drive Train Attributes

The engine’s power curve is another important attribute. Tri-Magnum weighs

Water Cooled Versus Air Cooled

In general, a water-cooled machine will produce a quieter, cooler-running vehicle. And

1 pr Sun Shield (by Kobel) #3117 window louver (vents)

Southwestern Insulation Fuller Enterprises

Take special care to square the chassis as

Figure 2.2 Figure 3.2

Install Parallel Frame Members –  Sheet 2

Figure 4.2 Figure 5.2

Tripod Mast –  Sheet 2

Figure 8.2 Figure 9.2

Figure 10.2 Figure 11.2

Front Suspension and Wheels

Install Front Suspension -  Sheet 2

Figure 15.2 Figure 16.2

Rear Suspension and Wheel

Figure 17.2 Figure 18.2

Figure 19.2 Figure 20.2

Prepare the Chassis -  Sheet 5

Because of the reduced weight, the front

Plywood Bulkheads -  Sheets 3  5

Figure 2.3 Figure 3.3

Exterior Foam Panels -  Sheets 5  6  7

Figure 8.3 Figure 9.3

Figure 11.3 Figure 12.3

Build the Interior -  Sheets 4  6  7

Figure 17.3 Figure 18.3

Use a portable reciprocating saw to cut the

Figure 21.3 Figure 22.3