photography & web

A trail from hell and an umbrella - Golden Ears solo overnight trip

Sep 19, 2021

So I went to camp on the Golden Ears mountain lately and turns out I wasn’t mentally prepared for what’s going on on this trail. Cloud inversion hunters - read on before you head there!

View from a tent on the Panorama Ridge at Golden Ears mountain, BC, Canada

As per usual - some stats:

  • Destination: Panorama ridge camp, Golden Ears mountain, Golden Ears Provincial Park, BC, Canada
  • Elevation of the Panorama ridge camp: ~1370m
  • Why I wanted to go there: I missed camping on a ridge rather than in a valley/near a lake and also was hoping for a cloud inversion.
  • Was it my first time on the trail: yes.
  • Would I recommend this trail: I’m not sure… If you like suffering than maybe. It’s seriously tough, especially with an overnight pack.
  • When I went: Sept 12-13, 2021, solo.
  • Trail length (roundtrip): ~20 km (AllTrails) , but Strava thinks it’s more like 32km. I would say it feels like infinity anyway.
  • Trail elevation gain to the camp: ~1200m (AllTrails), ~1400 (my Strava recording).
  • Trail quality: the first 7 km are deceiving. First 3 are really well maintained and even, then it’s the regular rocks & roots stuff. But at 7.3 km (on AllTrails) the trail changes drastically and consists of many, many vertical scramble sections that make this trail very tough and exhausting.
  • My ascent time (with overnight backpack): 7.5 hours minus about 30 mins I tried to attach an umbrella to my backpack 😅 For reference, the weight of my backpack was 19kg.
  • My descent time: 7.5 hours minus about 40 mins I spend taking pics on the lower part of the ridge.
  • Water sources: a few near the Alder flats - you’ll see the dramatic sign “Last drinking water”. Then no water until the camp - so make sure to fill at least 2 liters at Alder flats - you’ll need that liquid.
  • Temperatures: about 15°C high, about 7°C low.
  • Special permits needed: yep. A day pass for the West Canyon parking in the Golden ears park - free; a backcountry permit for Golden Ears park - $5.
View from of the emergency shelter on the Panorama Ridge at Golden Ears mountain, BC, Canada
Female backpacker

Why I did this (to myself 😅)

So it’s September and I’m struggling with the idea that the summer is over and want to do more backpacking before the season is really over for me. Also I really wanted to take pics of sunset/sunrise during a cloud inversion which is more likely to happen now that the temperatures drop.

Golden Ears was on my list for a while, the view from the ridge looked amazing in the photos. I spent the summer camping near lakes (can’t complain whatsoever though) and wanted to camp on an alpine ridge for a change.

So yeah, decided to go camping at Golden Ears. Little did I know of what’s to expect 😅 and that sounds dumb because like how you head on a trail without checking what it looks like?!

But no, I checked the trail stats and read the reviews, I just got a wrong impression. I read about the scramble parts and I thought to myself well okay I can manage a couple scrambles. And maybe they’re talking about the summit part which was optional to me (there’s a great view from the camp and the summit is additional 300m elevation so I thought it isn’t mandatory for me). Also I read backpackers get there in 4 hours, which is similar to my time going up Wedgemount lake.

So I concluded it’s probably similar to Wedgemount lake trail and I’ll be fine. But I wasn’t fine 😅 And it wasn’t anything like Wedgemount lake! Way, way worse. I mean, I came back in one piece and without injuries (my knees were in pain, but they seem to have recovered now). If I knew what this trail looks like I wouldn’t go.

The trail

I’ll refer to waypoints and distance in the AllTrails map.


  • First 3km are more or less even and well maintained, gentle ascents/descents.
  • 3-5.5 km (to Alder flats): the trail is rocks & roots style, a bit annoying but nothing major. Near Alder flats is also the last chance to get water. Alder flats campsite is nothing special btw, didn’t notice any views - so idk what all the hype is about and why ppl even bother to hike there to get drunk 🙄 (referring to discussions in various Facebook groups).
  • 5.5-7.3 km (to the lookout marked on the AllTrails map): gets steeper but still ok, most of the way is on a dry creek so lots of big loose rock which is annoying.
Rocky trail at Golden Ears Provincial Park, BC, Canada
Foggy and rocky trail at Golden Ears Provincial Park, BC, Canada
  • 7.3-7.7km: this is where things take a turn. It is the steepest and the crappiest section of the trail. At less than 500m long it sucks your soul out. It starts with 5 Stawamus Chief-style stair sections, which is hard, but these are stairs. They are walkable. And then there are like 6-8 scramble sections one after the other. Some of them are basically dirt cliffs, some are solid rock. Most of them are between a meter to 2 in height, but there was one of like 4 meters, don’t remember if in this or the next section. There are some roots to hold on to.

    These are very annoying to do with a big heavy backpack, as it greatly affects your balance and puts a lot of strain on leg muscles. At this point I started seriously thinking that I need to do leg workouts 🙄 (cause for now I don’t do any special workouts for hiking). Also while descending these on the way back I had to take my backpack off and drag it down on the dirt, step by step, because I couldn’t climb down safely otherwise.
Rocky trail at Golden Ears Provincial Park, BC, Canada
Rocky trail at Golden Ears Provincial Park, BC, Canada
My poor backpack after being dragged on dirt at Golden Ears park, BC, Canada
  • 7.7-8.4km: when looking on the map and seeing more space between the elevation lines I though this section would be better. No 😅 there are more scrambling sections, equally shitty. They are just spread out a bit more. So say you have one every 50 meters and not every 20 meters 🙈. Also there’s one with a rope. A thin rope tied to a thin tree… I kinda found it hard to trust.
  • 8.4-8.9km: this looks almost flat on the map. Guess what? More scrambling, even higher walls! Why, on the map it’s flat! The scrambling goes up and down, that’s why! Jeez. It. Was. Hell.
  • 8.9-9.6km: at this point you’re wondering if the scramble is over. No, it’s not. Although it’s a bit less frequent and a bit less sketchy. At some point there’s a vertical ladder and you’ll be like “Now, a ladder?! Where all the other ladders??”. It really feels like they forgot to install the 20 other ladders on the way 🤦🏽‍♀️. I know, I know, it’s all about the budget. But at least throw in some chains maybe? Like on Chief 🤷🏽‍♀️
AllTrails - Golden Ears trail at Golden Ears Provincial Park, BC, Canada
  • At 9.6km (if you look at the AllTrails map) it’s also the tree line. I saw that one comment on AllTrails “then you get to the tree line and forget all the crap” 😂 I swear it was my mantra on this hike. But the freaking tree line wasn’t coming. So there it was. After about 10k of hell. I didn’t forget all the crap 😂 but the alpine is beautiful. Also at this point the fog has kinda clamped up to clouds and I could see some views of the unnamed peak north of the trail, Pitt lake and the Golden Ears peak.
  • 9.6-10km is finally a nice walk in the alpine with the views mentioned above.
  • 10-10.1 km: you kinda can see it coming while enjoying the alpine - another scramble about 50m high in total. It has a couple especially sketchy parts where you’re close to the cliff, so practice caution…
  • 10.1-10.2 km: just a rocky trail and you finally reach the hut! 🎉
Rocky trail at Golden Ears Provincial Park, BC, Canada

So if you still want to go camping there, at least now you have your expectations for the trail set so low that you’ll go and be like “she’s talking BS, it’s not that bad” 😂🤣. Well I hope so. Cause a trail unexpectedly turning crappy when you’re already 7k in is the worst.

The camp

Couple words about the camp - it has like 7 quite small tent platforms. I went Sunday, that night there were just 5 more people camping, and it’s the end of the season. I heard there are bunches of people on weekends.

I wouldn’t say there are good spots to set up a tent otherwise - the ridge is narrow and rocky. But apparently dozens of people camp there in parallel, and I haven’t really explored around so might be more good spots.

I also saw some more campsites marked on the map, if you choose to display “Waypoints” in AllTrails map - well, the problem is, aside of you should be camping in the designated camp only, as per the park rules, there’s no water there. There are some puddles along the way, and you can drink from a puddle. But I don’t think they are permanent.

So either you bring a lot of extra water with you (not recommended 😬) or you hike to the stream at the camp (well, if you’re really fit and don’t feel like dying after all the scrambles).

Puddle at Golden Ears mountain, BC, Canada

Couple words about the toilet. So there is a toilet in the hut, it’s the bio diversion one where you have to push the paddle 5 times. These tend to be the stinkiest, but apparently the best for nature, as I read at the Joffre lakes toilet 😅 yes, they have a whole lecture there - when the poop and the pee are separated, they both get processed by the nature pretty efficiently, almost without human intervention. So I’m all into diversion toilets, really. Also, this one didn’t really stink outside of the toilet which is a miracle 🙄

But anyway, they kinda forgot to put a toilet seat on it 🤔 and I know, it’s not that the toilet seats are clean in these places, but at least if you really need to, you can wipe it and then put some TP on it. Idk about you, but I can’t hover-poop like this, especially not after a hike like this 🙄 my legs are about to give up on me already 🤷🏽‍♀️

Also, there are no private place in the area. It’s surrounded by cliffs. And you can’t dig a cathole because it’s rocky all around. So if someone poops behind a rock, they will probably leave the toilet paper there as well 🤦🏽‍♀️ and it’s overall gross. So I suggest at least getting some doggy bags even though you have no dog and pack out all the toilet paper. I always have a few with me in case I have to go in the bush.

Of course, the toilet and the hut are full of garbage… I thought about taking some back with me, but a - I didn’t have a large garbage bag and b - I couldn’t imagine of carrying one gram more than I have to on this hellish hike back…

By the way - please shut the emergency shelter and the toilet so at least it won’t attract wildlife. The emergency shelter is really tricky to shut though.

Speaking of the emergency shelter - it’s the only place to store food in. You better do - potential bears aside, I saw a mouse coming to check out my food bag after the dark fell and before I stashed it in the hut.

View to the west at sunrise from panorama ridge at Golden Ears park, BC, Canada

The views were beautiful though. The fog kinda cleared and there was a cloud inversion, I set up a camp, took a bunch of pics, slept fairly well, woke up at 4:30 as per usual cause I had to pee 🙄 was afraid to get out of the tent until like 6 🙈 always the same mistake. I have to learn.

View of a tent and cloud inversion on the Panorama Ridge at Golden Ears mountain, BC, Canada
View of a tent, sunrise and cloud inversion on the Panorama Ridge at Golden Ears mountain, BC, Canada

Took I think my most epic time-lapse video during that sunrise with the clouds below me filled with the pinkish light (see it on my Instagram highlights). Took more pics. Ate breakfast, chilled for a bit, almost forcing myself cause I had the urge to pick up the camera and go shoot the mountains peaking above the clouds. 

Sunrise, a tent and cloud inversion on the Panorama Ridge at Golden Ears mountain, BC, Canada

So I didn’t go shoot and then 30 mins later the fog has filled the ridge and wouldn’t go away. So after getting sick of waiting I packed and left. In the fog. Which is not ideal, but the visibility was good enough to make the first 50m scramble part.

And down there, on the lower ridge, it wasn’t foggy and the Pitt lake side was almost clear with a really beautiful view of the lake, so I stopped to take another bunch of pics.


And then - the hellish way down. The last 5 km were the longest, oooh I was so ready to get done with this trail 😂

Fog on the ridge of Golden Ears mountain, BC, Canada
View of Pitt lake from the ridge of Golden Ears mountain, BC, Canada

Hiking with an umbrella

I have mentioned an umbrella - so yeah, I was hiking with an umbrella on the way up 😂☔️

I had this idea for a while now. I saw somebody hiking with an umbrella on Berg lake trail I think, though it wasn’t attached to the backpack.

Anyhow, the problem is that I get hot when hiking, especially up. If I wear a rain shell I sweat and it gets wet from the inside, so what’s the point. If I hike with a t-shirt, I get soaked, not fun - when I stop, I get cold quickly.

So I figured why not try and attach an umbrella to my backpack so it keeps me dry, at least partially. It was a last-last-minute decision, I didn’t have time to try this while at home, but had an umbrella in my car. So when I got to the trail I decided to try attaching it. I think people including the rangers on the parking lot were secretly laughing at me. But anyway, I attached it with a couple carabiners and started hiking. It wouldn’t stay in place, of course, so I had to do another stop and find a third carabiner and it has finally worked.

It wasn’t ideal, as I would like it to be a bit higher and a bit less tilted back, but hey - it gave me the desired protection! It was raining I think until I passed The Most Crappy Section, so was worth it. It even served me exceptionally well when I stopped for a lunch at the Alder flats - I just sat leaning on my backpack and beneath the umbrella! It was raining and I was dry!

Lunch at Golden Ears park, BC, Canada
Hiking with umbrella at Golden Ears park, BC, Canada

Shall we start a new fashion? 😂 

So a few tips/things to consider for umbrella-hiking:

  • You now have a higher clearance, be mindful of that when passing under branches.
  • You also have a wider profile which is inconvenient in narrow places. The umbrella can catch up on things.
  • For the reasons above, don’t use a big umbrella. I had a small one and had enough protection.
  • If it’s windy than the umbrella probably won’t help and will break. But if it’s both rainy and windy I would stay home anyway 🙄🙄
  • Scramble with an umbrella is a joke. A sad one. I have no idea how I’ve actually made it with the umbrella on past The Most Crappy Section. When you put the hiking poles forward and lean forward onto them to make a big step, the umbrella hits them. It’s very annoying.
  • Your umbrella is probably going to get destroyed along the way. So don’t bring an expensive one. I have broke one of the carcass poles of mine along the way. While searching the hiking umbrella hashtags I’ve actually came across a company that makes hiking umbrellas, but I would hesitate to invest in one for this exact reason.
  • Figure out how to attach the umbrella to the backpack while you’re at home, because otherwise you will waste precious time while on the trail, like me, and will get wet while doing it, also like me. Walk and jump with it to see that it stays in place.
  • I don’t have a recipe for attaching an umbrella to a backpack - I’ve used carabiners, it has worked so-so. You can use any type of ties, ideally ones you can open easily to quickly remove it if needed. Ideally you want to somehow fix it vertically, if it makes sense - for example, mine once had a string loop at the handle, but it has ripped off at some point (before the trail), so I had no easy way to make the handle stay at the same level and the umbrella kept sliding down.
  • Make sure the umbrella doesn’t create pressure points on your body while attached. Mine was pressing on the collar bone and it was very painful and I had to waste time, again, to readjust it.

For me - hiking with an umbrella is going to be a thing now!

More lessons learned

Hiking and facepalming at Golden Ears park, BC, Canada

Will share a couple things I thought would help me next time 🙄:

  • Day hike the trail before heading on an overnight trip - at least for the trails outside Garibaldi park 😆 I’m thinking about camping at mount Unnecessary for a while and now have decided that I’m going to check it out with a light backpack first.
  • Do leg workouts… I might 😅 but yeah, I start feeling sometimes, and especially after Golden Ears, that my leg muscles become the bottleneck. Before it was rather the cardio. So I might start weight training.
  • Bring apple juice and/or research some concentrate options - so I have a general problem that if I don’t eat frequently while hiking, I start being low energy and moody. And anxious 😅😅 That has to do with blood sugar dropping below certain level. So I make sure to take breaks for snacks, but this time in addition I brought my old water bladder filled with a liter of apple juice. I swear I think that’s what kept me alive through this hell on the way up!! It’s fast sugar, so it turns to energy real quick and I felt the difference. Do recommend.
  • Become alert on the slightest mention of scramble in trail reviews 😂 and then try to research how much of it actually exists on the trail.
Sunset View from the ridge of Golden Ears mountain, BC, Canada

Overall… I don’t regret doing this trail. I ticked it off from my list and it does feel good. Was it worth it… mmm tough question. It’s easy to speak sitting at the comfort of my home. But I would think many times before doing it again 😅 And it’s not a trail I would automatically recommend to someone without knowing their fitness level.


Have you done this one? What you think of it, let me know 😂 maybe I’m just spoiled.


Safe travels and pleeeease leave no trace!

Cheers,


Oless

Follow my journey on the instagram!

Sunset over Sunburst and Cerulean lakes In mount Assiniboine park British Columbia
By Olessia Bourgart 16 Aug, 2023
The tale about my biggest solo adventure of the summer 2022, full of anxiety and epic views.
My backpacking gear reviews
By Olessia Bourgart 25 Nov, 2021
It’s almost winter and that means - driving conclusions regarding our current gear and planning what improvements we want to make before the next season. I wanted to publish there reviews for a while, but didn't know how to organize them. So here they just are.
Female backpacker in a tent watching cloud inversion in the alpine of Golden Ears mountain
By Olessia Bourgart 04 Oct, 2021
Getting good night’s sleep is an important part of an enjoyable adventure, especially where physical challenges are involved. My sleeping system was a bit off last year, and after testing my upgrades for 10 nights on different trips this season I’m happy to report it’s much better!
Show More
Share by: