Le Caillou du Pacifique (the Pacific pebble), what a strange nickname to give France’s overseas department of New Calendonia.

This French archipelago is large: it consists of a main island, Grande Terre, and the Loyalty Islands of Maré, Ouvéa, Lifou and Tiga. A little to the south of Grande Terre, you can discover the Isle of Pines, famous for its pristine white beaches that are dotted with columnar pines.

Its exceptional lagoons are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Coral reefs surround Grande Terre for more than 10 kilometres (6 mi) off the coast, making New Caledonia an island with the second largest coral reef in the world, after Australia.

This antipodean France has a special status: following the Nouméa Accords of 1998, Caledonian citizenship and a transfer of power from the French state to New Caledonia is gradually being implemented.

France might be having difficulty letting go. This island chain harbours a mineral treasure that represents an enormous financial windfall: nickel. One third of the world's nickel resources are exploited here. It’s hardly a recent development though, since the rush for ‘red gold’ began near Nouméa in 1874.

In 1864, the French state established the bagne where 21,630 people were sent to smash rocks until 1897 – perhaps that's where the nickname comes from. Overall, 4,250 revolutionaries from the Paris Commune, including Louise Michel, would be sent.

French colonialism in this part of Melanesia was not a path strewn with flowers, but was made in pain. In 1878, the Kanaks, the original inhabitants, rebelled. In all, 1,200 Kanaks and 200 Europeans were killed. Ataï, the leader of this rebellion, was decapitated and his head sent to Paris for study. Fortunately, times change and in 2014, the Natural History Museum in Paris returned Ataï's skull to his descendants to repair the outrage.

Today's New Caledonia is still divided into two groups: the Kanaks, the original Melanesian people, and the Caldoches, the descendants of the French settlers.

This Collection has seven stages over 114 kilometres (71 mi) and allows you to discover the magnificent paths and landscapes of the Southern Province. It’s a tropical country and although you start in a rather deserted area, from the third day the trail takes you into a remarkable rainforest.

The change of scenery is total and the diversity are extraordinary because all the plants and animals you meet along the paths are endemic. The cold and humidity are very present however so you’ll need a good jumper and rain gear.

You should also bring good non-slip hiking shoes, as the red laterite paths are often muddy and slippery.

There’s no need to pack a tent, because at each stage you will find a faré – a refuge. These are always equipped with a water point and often a barbecue. However, if you want more privacy, there are plenty of campsites available. The water in the mountain creeks is drinkable but to be on the safe side, take water purification tablets, which you can buy at the pharmacy.

I recommend visiting this part of Oceania from early May to mid-November. This period is cooler and less rainy. Avoid the hot and humid season that runs in these latitudes from mid-November to May.

The beginning of the route, which starts in Prony, is difficult to access as there’s no bus service to it. You either have to be dropped off or hitchhike to get there. On the other hand, at the end of the route it’s easy to return to Noumea from Dumbéa via the bus.

The local currency is CFA francs, and you’ll need to be prepared when it comes to supplies. There are no supermarkets or restaurants on this itinerary, so you must buy your food in Noumea and carry it with you.

To make your stay complete and connect with the locals, you absolutely must try the nakamal cafes, often signposted along secondary roads.

They serve kava, an earthy anaesthetic drink that has a strong relaxing effect. It’s amazing! This is the same drink served in the other Melanesian islands of the Pacific as a sign of welcome during a tribal ceremony called the Custom.

Have a good trip on this Great New Caledonia Trek 1!