Garden Q&A: What should I do about my camellias?

What should I be doing for my camellias now that they are just about done blooming?

Camellias are a favorite plant here in the South for two simple reasons. When they are blooming from winter through spring, they are simply beautiful. And, being natives of Asia, they are well suited to our Southern climate and want very little care. In fact, our common garden camellia (C. japonica) has been known to live to be a hundred years old and reach heights of 20 feet or more. Some varieties are cold hardy and can survive temperatures down to 0 degrees. Others are heat tolerant and perform well as far south as Miami. But they can all benefit from a little TLC from time to time.

Camellias don’t normally need much pruning. Their natural round shape is destroyed when they’re sheared back the way we often shape other landscape shrubs. Shearing encourages leaf growth at the tips of the branches, which in turn blocks the sunlight from reaching the interior of the shrub. That causes the plant to have fewer flowers and an empty middle. Definitely not the lush appearance you’re after.

Since the first reason we prune any plant is to improve its health, start by pruning out any dead, broken and weak branches when the camellia stops blooming. Remove any straggling branches that take away from the plants natural form at any time during the year. Pruning should be avoided in late summer or fall because you will be removing next season’s flower buds.

In the home garden, camellias need only one or two applications of fertilizer a year. For your established plants, after the flowers drop in the spring through early summer, use an acid-forming “Azalea & Camellia” fertilizer. For young or container-grown camellias, use a fertilizer with equal amounts of nitrogen and potassium (first and third numbers on the label) and low phosphorus (the middle number). Apply as recommended on the label, and water the plant both before and after applying. Fertilizing camellias in late summer or fall can promote tender new growth that will be damaged if we experience an early cold snap.

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Compared to the other plants in my garden, camellias are low-maintenance, and rarely develop serious disease problems. Using good sanitation practices and proper irrigation can help keep some problems at bay. Camellia petal blight and camellia leaf gall – two common fungal diseases — are both best controlled by picking up and destroying all fallen and/or infected blossoms and affected leaves. Remove and replace last year’s mulch with a fresh 4-5 inch layer.

Of course, there are other pests and diseases with which you may want to be familiar. For all those pesky pest problems and more, the University of Florida publication, “Camellias at a Glance” (edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep002) will be helpful.

When can I transplant some azaleas? And when should I plant more in my garden?

For transplanting, the University of Florida recommends November through February. For planting new containerized plants, any time during the year, if they are then properly planted and helped to become established.

It may be counter-intuitive to move your azaleas in the fall and winter. After all, in spring when you see their full size and glory, it’s easier to visualize where they might be better used in the landscape.

However, fall’s cooler temperatures and (in some years) more frequent rain, help woody plants — like azaleas — develop stronger root systems throughout the winter dormancy. Healthy roots give the transplants a better chance for survival in the hot, humid weather ahead.

Before you do any transplanting or planting, “Azaleas at a Glance,” a publication of the University of Florida (edis.ifas.ufl.edu/mg019) is a must read.

I planted caladiums last year and left them in the ground over the winter. I’m not seeing any of them coming back up.

My personal experience is that caladium bulbs (botanically known as tubers) are a delicacy for all the neighborhood squirrels, and will be dug out and eaten as soon as your back is turned.

Caladiums are tropical. They grow year round further south, but, in north Florida our low winter temperatures typically cut short their growing season. Caladium tubers may suffer rot or slow growth if allowed to overwinter in cool, wet soil. They perform better if they are dug up and stored when the leaves have wilted.

In north Florida, caladium tubers are planted in the ground in April when the temperatures are 60 degrees and above. Our mild winter has spurred some tubers to begin growing a little early this year.

When the leaves emerge, mulch around the plant to retain soil moisture. Caladiums should never sit in either saturated or dry soil. They are heavy feeders and should be fertilized regularly with a soluble fertilizer.

Our tried-and-true shade loving caladiums can burn if fertilizer is applied directly to the leaves, if the plants are in direct sunlight, or if there is a lack of water. There are new varieties, however, that tolerate more sun without burning.

In short, be patient just a little longer. Look for new leaves to pop up and unfurl in the next few weeks.

As you’ve come to count on, the University of Florida’s publications can be very helpful. Look for “Growing Caladiums in the Landscape” (gcrec.ifas.ufl.edu/ornamentals/growing-caladiums/growing-in-the-landscape/) for more details.

Paula Weatherby is a master gardener with the Duval County Extension Service and the University of Florida/IFAS. If you have gardening questions, you can speak to a master gardener from 9:30 a.m. to noon and 12:30 p.m. to 3:30 p.m. Monday through Friday at the Duval extension office at (904) 255-7450.