Believe it or not, there was indeed a time before incessant phone pings, congested sidewalks of chipped concrete and never-ending train strikes. A time when the agenda held little more than a morning swim, an afternoon of reading in the sunshine and, to finish, a well-earned dinner and a perfectly-pulled pint. A blissful time, a joyful time. A time long-gone… so you may think. With a trip to Ireland's wild and rural West Cork, you can travel back to this magical point any time you'd like (and if you're coming from London, it's only an hour and twenty minutes by plane to Cork Airport, Co. Cork).
We'll take you through the most beautiful, perfectly-preserved towns and hidden gems throughout the region and give you the best hotels, cottages and castles in West Cork to catch some sleep amidst the magic… we have a sneaking suspicion you won't be in too much of a hurry to travel back to the future after your time in West Cork.
How to get there
West Cork is a vast expanse of rural countryside, full of lovely villages and market towns. Thankfully, getting there is not too complicated, no matter your origin or how you choose to travel.
Your journey to West Cork will usually necessitate a stop in Cork, which can be reached either by air, water or land. From Cork, you'll need to opt for either car, helicopter, taxi or public transport to continue your journey west.
Several airlines have frequent flights directly into Cork City (there are also connecting flights from Shannon and Dublin Airports, too). There are no airports in West Cork, but certain towns and events can be reached by chartered helicopter.
Driving through the winding, teensy roads of West Cork is the most usual - and beautiful! - way to get there. Cars can be hired from Cork Airport, Cork Ferryport or the Cork City Railway Station for those visiting from outside of Ireland. Taxis, too, can be hired (do be sure to save their telephone number should you have a late one at a pub!). The best option for public transport is the Bus Éirann (Irish Bus), which provides service throughout the country with direct West Cork connections including the towns Baltimore and Skibbereen.
The city of Cork can be reached by Brittany Ferries, which travel to the Ringaskiddy Ferry Terminal at the Port of Cork from France. Irish Ferries and the Stena Line also provide services from Rosslare and Dublin, with ferries coming from Wales. Intrepid (and seasoned) sailors can sail the coast, although this is not usually advised and can be quite tricky to navigate.
Kinsale
Pressed against a rocky shoreline is the seaside town of Kinsale. The southern starting point for Ireland's famous Wild Atlantic Way trail, Kinsale greets a mix of first-timers and those who are coming to the end of their western tour. Jewel-toned shops contrast with the bright village greens and the harbour's aquamarine water.
With a vibrant arts community, Kinsale is home to a myriad small arts and design stores, including Mamukko, whose owner transform old sails into sturdy totes. Adventurers will stumble upon ancient Celtic ruins and a magnificent 17th-century lighthouse whilst walking the Old Head of Kinsale trail. Some of Ireland's best seafood is caught just beyond the harbour; enjoy fresh-caught cod at Fishy Fishy or splurge on a fabulous dinner at Bastion. During the summer months, head to boutique brewery Blacks and sip on fresh ales and stouts.
Schull
Once a humble, tiny fishing town, Schull has recently skyrocketed in popularity – especially amongst the arts crowd. With actors Saorise Ronan and Paul Mescal purchasing waterfront property, expect to find understated glamour in Schull (and really, really good surfing). Backdropped by Mount Gabriel, the protected harbour is ideal for recreational boating and bracing swims. After a long day, enjoy a pint at Hackett's or the Bunratty Inn and fresh seafood at L'Escale, open in the summer months.
Clonakilty
With miles of beach and great surf, packed with history and culinary heritage, Clonakilty is one of West Cork's finest locations. Learn to surf on Inchydoney Beach, pay homage to Michael Collins at his final resting place, Béal na Blá, in nearby Castleview and eat your weight in fresh cream and black pudding, a local specialty; in Clonakilty, anything is possible. With pretty village houses nestled against lovely pubs and restaurants – Wilde & Co., the Winery and De Barra's Folk Club are local favourites.
Glandore & Leap
Just nineteen minutes from Clonakilty are the smaller harbour villages of Glandore and Leap. Surrounded by grassy knolls whose green colours cannot be seen outside of Ireland and buttressed by salty harbours and imposing cliffs, there is perhaps no better corner of the world. After a romp around Lough Hyne, spin your way back to Leap, home to Connolly's of Leap, one of the world's best music venues (a truly unmissable experience for anyone even remotely in the village's vicinity). After ordering a Murphy's and an infuriatingly delicious wood-fired pizza at Connolly's of Leap, groove and dance the night away to the live alternative and rock tunes.
Bantry
Bantry is a town full of history and lore, a must-visit for those interested in Irish history. It is said to be the ancient home of Breandán the Navigator, the first person to discover America and was the site of a failed French revolutionary invasion, stymied by local landowner Richard White, 1st Early of Bantry, whose house and gardens can be visited year round – perfect for interiors lovers. Bantry's Wolfe Tone Square commemorates Theobald Wolfe Tone, the leader of the 1798 rebellion, who sought to work together with the French during their expedition to the country. After uncovering the town's history, take the time to visit Bantry's market and go for a sail or swim in the protected harbour. Golf lovers, too, can find lovely courses ready for your next tee-off time.
Beara Peninsula
At the very edge of West Cork (and what feels like the world) sits the Beara Peninsula, whose coasts are smattered with scenic towns and villages, the finest being Glengarriff, Adrigole, Castletownbere and Eyeries. Remote destinations all of them (you'd be hard pressed to find phone service), each town and village are idyllic jewels along the coastline. Enjoy scenic walks along hilly trails and – for the daring – invigorating swims in the Atlantic Ocean.
Where to stay
Inns & hotels
- Perryville House, Kinsale.
An elegant 19th-century townhouse overlooking Kinsale Harbour.
From €295 per night. - Liss Ard Estate, Skibbereen.
An esteemed country estate with well-appointed guest rooms and an acclaimed kitchen set on over 160 acres of pristine nature, including a private lake and a garden installation designed by renowned artist James Turrell.
From €300 per night. - Giles Norman Townhouse, Kinsale.
Modern luxury accommodation run by gallerist couple Giles and Catherine Norman.
From €165 per night. - The Castle, Castletownshend, Skibbereen.
A family-run, boutique B&B in a 17th-century Irish castle. Also available are self-catering cottages.
From €100 per night.
Holiday homes & Airbnbs
- Inish Beg, Creagh, Baltimore.
A private island estate accessible by a quaint road bridge with catered luxury holiday homes.
From €85 per night. - The Old Church Hall, Ballydehob.
A 200-year-old church hall transformed into lovely accommodations for up to four guests.
From £145 per night. - Fuchisa Lane Cottage, Schull.
A secluded stone cottage close to Schull, ideal for couples.
From £75 per night. - The Little House, The Cove, Baltimore.
A traditional Irish cottage – and the oldest in the village. A short walk away from the town of Baltimore and its harbour.
From £82 per night. - The Beach Cottage, Inchydoney.
Wake up to crashing waves at this lovely beach cottage on one of West Cork's finest beaches.
From £119 per night. - The Coach House, Clonakilty.
A perfect house for romantic getaways, just outside of Clonakilty in the middle of stunning nature.
From £93 per night. - Gortavallig Cottage, Glanmore, Co. Kerry.
While technically in County Kerry, this stunning traditional cottage is one of the Beara Peninsula's finest. Take in the splendour of the hundreds of acres of nature which surround the whitewashed house, including the sapphire-blue Glanmore Lake.
From £79 per night. - Fern Cottage, Beara.
An old-style farmhouse recently restored, Fern Cottage is the ideal getaway for families and couples alike. Bright and airy, the cottage is a short ten-minute walk away from the colourful village of Eyeries.
From £114 per night.
