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From http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=50955
I threaded the flat bar for the 5/8-11 threaded rod. I didn't run the tap all the way through, just enough for the rod to snug up tightly before comming through the bottom. Then a nut to lock the rod in place and stabilize it. II also milled a 1/2" hex at the top of each rod so I could tighten them up into the flat bar. The four long pieces are 2" x 2" x .120 wall tube, common stuff.
The pieces that slip over the 2" are 2 1/4" x .109 telescopic sq. tube. This stuff is made to slip over the 2". It's not real common and not too many places stock it, hard to find. The seam is in the corner of the tube as opposed to the center as most other welded seam sq. tubes are. Also the odd wall thickness of .109 ensures enough clearance for most 2" tubes to fit.
My first thought was to use angle iron rather than 2" x 1/2" flat bar. But I would have had to have 1/2" thick angle for the threaded rod to screw into and the angle would have had to be at least 3 x 3. I have a lot of 2" flat in the shop so I used it. Since the feet of the base are so close to the rod the bar only sags about 1/8" or so at the center, not a problem.
I use a pry bar to tilt the machine enough to slip the 1/2" flat under the base, thats the nice thing about using 1/2" flat bar is you don't have to tip the base much to slide it under. The flat bar is threaded for the rod, no nuts on the underside, just on the top to lock it and stabilize it.
How I put the 2" x 1/2" flat bar under the base of the machine. This is how it's done. A short pry bar and some small blocks of wood of various thicknesses. I can easily tilt the machine with one hand on the bar and position the flat bar under it I'm setting it up to move my surface grinder, it's the same base as the T&C grinder in my previous posts except this base has only three feet..... 2 in the front and one in the back (in the center) so I have to use some blocks on the back corners so the bar picks the corner of the base and not off the center foot, all that weight in the center of the bar would shurley bend it.
I threaded the flat bar for the 5/8-11 threaded rod. I didn't run the tap all the way through, just enough for the rod to snug up tightly before comming through the bottom. Then a nut to lock the rod in place and stabilize it. II also milled a 1/2" hex at the top of each rod so I could tighten them up into the flat bar. The four long pieces are 2" x 2" x .120 wall tube, common stuff.
The pieces that slip over the 2" are 2 1/4" x .109 telescopic sq. tube. This stuff is made to slip over the 2". It's not real common and not too many places stock it, hard to find. The seam is in the corner of the tube as opposed to the center as most other welded seam sq. tubes are. Also the odd wall thickness of .109 ensures enough clearance for most 2" tubes to fit.
My first thought was to use angle iron rather than 2" x 1/2" flat bar. But I would have had to have 1/2" thick angle for the threaded rod to screw into and the angle would have had to be at least 3 x 3. I have a lot of 2" flat in the shop so I used it. Since the feet of the base are so close to the rod the bar only sags about 1/8" or so at the center, not a problem.
I use a pry bar to tilt the machine enough to slip the 1/2" flat under the base, thats the nice thing about using 1/2" flat bar is you don't have to tip the base much to slide it under. The flat bar is threaded for the rod, no nuts on the underside, just on the top to lock it and stabilize it.
How I put the 2" x 1/2" flat bar under the base of the machine. This is how it's done. A short pry bar and some small blocks of wood of various thicknesses. I can easily tilt the machine with one hand on the bar and position the flat bar under it I'm setting it up to move my surface grinder, it's the same base as the T&C grinder in my previous posts except this base has only three feet..... 2 in the front and one in the back (in the center) so I have to use some blocks on the back corners so the bar picks the corner of the base and not off the center foot, all that weight in the center of the bar would shurley bend it.
