Chiang Mai: Thailand's 'northern rose' is blooming again

I'm in Thailand at a glamorous rooftop bar, high up above the city lights, enjoying the balmy breeze of a warm, spring evening. Deciding whether to order another perfect watermelon martini or a Chang cold brew draught beer, I watch as handsome waiters chat with beautiful people staging impromptu Instagram shoots.

The service is on point, the music is fabulous and the tapas as good as any I've eaten in Spain. It sounds like I'm in Bangkok, right? Wrong. This is Chiang Mai in 2023, which is to say a very different city than it was a few years ago. The rose of northern Thailand is enjoying a post-pandemic resurgence and Melia Chiang Mai, the third property in Thailand from Spanish brand, Melia Hotels International, is leading the charge.

The open-air bar is on the 22nd floor of the hotel, a five-star high-rise that opened a year ago and has quickly become a go-to destination for discerning guests from around the world. Towering over the Ping River, Melia Chiang Mai combines European style and flavours (don't miss the fresh churros on the breakfast buffet) with a deep respect for Thai traditions. While junior travellers will combust with excitement at the extraordinary kids' club, I feel the same way at The Level Lounge, an exclusive work-and-leisure space where guests staying in The Level Rooms can enjoy scenic views, afternoon tea service and complimentary cocktails and canapes.

Anyone who visited Chiang Mai before 2020 will tell you the laidback city, recently ranked the safest in south-east Asia, is a joy to explore. Ancient temples, lush nature, a rich arts scene and delicious Lanna cuisine are just some of the attractions.

Sadly, the past few years have been incredibly tough on the region. Occupancy in 40 Chiang Mai hotels was less than 10 per cent throughout 2021, according to a survey conducted by the Northern Chapter of the Thai Hotels Association. Most people working in tourism-related businesses lost their jobs. At least two major shopping centres - Kad Suan Kaew and Promenada - closed permanently, while countless smaller boutiques and restaurants shut up shop.

So it's very encouraging to see green shoots appear as tourists return, following the lifting of all Thai COVID-19-era travel restrictions. An impressive number of new hotels have opened, including a luxury wellness retreat near Doi Suthep Mountain by AKARYN Hotel Group. There are several more hotels slated to open later this year, as buzz builds around the big reveal of InterContinental Chiang Mai Mae Ping. Some of the new properties are giving multi-million dollar Cinderella makeovers to older hotels that had been there forever. Melia Chiang Mai, for example, is on the site of the former Pornping Tower Hotel, though you'd never know it now, so complete is the reimagining. A new era for the northern star city has begun. Here's our pick of the latest and about-to-open hotels to book or bookmark.

Spectacular in every sense, Melia Chiang Mai set a new bar for the city when it opened in April 2022. The former Pornping Tower Hotel was acquired by Spanish brand Melia Hotels International and completely transformed into a modern, sophisticated high-rise hotel with Chiang Mai's best rooftop bar and club lounge. On the upper floors of the 22-storey property you'll find The Level Rooms, affording the best views and access to The Level Lounge. Those are the rooms you should book. The resort pool is also dreamy, the perfect spot to WFA (Work From Anywhere). Rooms from $170 per night; melia.com

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Beam me up! At the very centre of the trendy Nimman neighbourhood, Hotel G Nimman's modern, minimalist exterior reminds me of space-age travels. Elegant and understated, the hotel design has embraced white and neutral tones, centred around a wow-factor interior swimming pool. Opened in January 2022, the four-star property has 25 rooms. It's located on Soi 17, which means Nimman's many bars, restaurants, boutiques and galleries are just a short walk away. Rooms from $100 per night; gnimmanchiangmai.com

Seek wellness and you'll find it at newly opened Aleenta Retreat, the third property by AKARYN Hotel Group under the Aleenta brand. The boutique holistic wellness and spa hotel has 44 rooms and suites (including a spectacular four-bedroom teak villa with private pool) in a tranquil location near Doi Suthep-Pui National Park. At the brand's signature Ayurah Wellness Centre, programs are catered to meet individual goals. For some, that means days of rest, healthy cuisine and healing massage. Others will opt to make the most of daily yoga, qi gong, Thai holistic medicine consultations and self-love coaching. Rooms from $285 per night; aleenta.com

The self-described "hip & green" Proud Phu Fah Hotel resort opened in February in Mae Rim, a couple of kilometres away from the Old City action. A good choice for travellers seeking to surround themselves with nature, peace and quiet, the resort has 19 rooms and suites, a saltwater swimming pool and a wellness-focussed restaurant. From Mae Rim, excursions can easily be organised to elephant rescue projects, the royal botanic gardens and strawberry farms. Rooms from $97 per night; proudphufah.com

In one of the city's most extensive and exciting hotel transformations in recent memory, the classic - but very tired - Imperial Mae Ping Hotel has been acquired by IHG. A glow-up from the ground up is under way and when completed, the InterContinental Chiang Mai Mae Ping will feature 240 stylish rooms and suites, many with Doi Suthep mountain views. Expect to see a sophisticated rooftop bar, five restaurants and an exciting cultural program of events. A prized location in the Night Bazaar area will be a strong draw. The hotel is set to open later this year and is currently accepting bookings for stays on or after December 1. Rooms from $315 a night; ihg.com

NH Collection Chiang Mai Ping River will open in 2023, a collaboration between Minor Hotels and NH Hotel Group, a major player in the European hotel market. The property will feel more like an urban retreat than a city pad, with 79 rooms and suites, some with private pools, in two low-rise waterfront buildings. A contemporary art space will showcase Thai artists. Riverside hotels have always held a special magic and prestige in Chiang Mai, especially during annual Loy Krathong celebrations, when locals gather to pay respect to the Goddess of Water with flowers, floating candles and beauty parades. Room rates not yet available; nh-collection.com

Kristie Kellahan travelled with assistance from Melia Chiang Mai.