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Welcome to DIY Sound Group
Purchasing Notice: These are heavy flat packs that get shipped in two boxes.
8 years ago in 2014 I designed this slot ported Cube-18 and sold them for $198 each. Demand and reviews were great, but packaging by myself was very time consuming. So for a while they were only available in bulk pallet orders of 30 units. Now with more helping hands I've decided to bring them back in their original form. We all know wood prices have been up and down recently, so I ordered a large number of these and the Cube-15 Max cabinets at the same time. The larger quantity kept the price under control and almost the same as they were 8 years ago!
The Cube-18 is a 5.5 cubic foot (net volume) subwoofer flat pack made from premium 3/4" MDF. The cabinet is tuned to 18hz using a large slot port that extends along the bottom and up the back panel. It was originally designed to perform great with the highly underrated 18" Dayton Audio RSS460. But over the past 8 years many people have used the Cube-18 with the 18" Dayton Ultimax, the Stereo Integrity HT-18 models, and many other high powered woofers.
When building any subwoofer cabinet it's very important to know the net internal volume of the cabinet, not just the outer dimensions which is only the 'gross' volume. 'NET' is the true internal box volume after subtracting off bracing and ports. If you don't know the net volume of your cabinet it would be hard to decide if it's right for your particular woofer.
Product Highlights:
Every panel is precisely cut using a $400k industrial CNC router so panels fit together perfectly in rabbet joints and dado grooves. There's no overly sloppy assembly with our cabinets and they can be assembled easily without screws or nails. In fact, cuts are so precise that some people have assembled them using nothing but strong masking tape to hold the panels together while the glue dries. Well thought out and tested designs, incredibly accurate cuts, and premium quality wood are what make Denovo flat packs so popular.
Note: I did not have the CNC company cut holes for terminals because everyone likes using something different. Terminals or binding posts can be shipped for free if you order them at the same time you order this flat pack.
The fit and finish of the kits are excellent you would need to try very hard to mess up the assembly of these. I have not fired mine up yet but the build went very smooth.
This is my first DIYSG kit and it did not disappoint! They arrived very quickly and were packaged phenomenally well. Upon first unboxing the two kits, I had a moment of regret and despair when I didn't see any instructions. But I put on my big boy pants and did what no man likes to do.... I asked for help. Erich responded quickly with a friendly response and great instructions. After I saw the instructions I banged my head on the table for how easy this was. I ended up getting both subs assembled quickly and they went together really well. I opted to use clamps in a few spots, but a lot of these pieces can be held together when drying with strong tape. They look great, working on the final finish! Can't thank Erich enough for the awesome products. Can't wait for some of the other speaker kits to be more regularly in stock again so I can continue to upgrade the rest of my setup and upset my wife.
Package was shipped promptly and packaged with Eric's usual thoroughness. The pieces went together flawlessly, even for a mechanically challenged person like myself. Performance is excellent. I had the RS18 woofer in a sealed enclosure, and this is quite the upgrade. With the woofer in the new enclosure, my the calibration utility on the HTR showed that the woofer was almost 6db more efficient. That is, audyssey tells you to set the woofer to 75db (which it was for prior enclosure), but it was now reading 81db. With this enclosure, I am getting usable output to at least 10hz, because I can see my projector screen gently undulating. Super performance, and very clean. Built like a tank.
Thanks!
I built 2 of these to use with Dayton HO 18 and I couldn't be happier. Using a Crown xls1002 on each sub and it's a great match. I also have 2 Svs pb 2000's that I paid about the same money for. I have to say you get much more bang for your buck with these 18's vs the pb 2000's, or probably any pre assembled powered sub in the price range. I plan to sell the pb 2000's and build 2 more of these 18's. I'd highly recommend.
The cube-18 is loaded with an SI HT-18v3. They sound fantastic together. Build quality is perfect; everything went together without any issues. I'm not shy at building my own enclosures at all, but wanted to try something else and I am glad I did! You just had to add paint and a wiring terminal and you're off to the races!
Speaker sounds great and no chuffing at the speaker port. I didn't add any filler, and it sounds just as it should. I can't thank Erich enough, great work!
First off, Erich is a very helpful guy, very responsive and will help in any way possible. Not that you'll need help because this is so easy to assemble. Start with the port and everything falls into place after that. I upgraded from his sealed Ultimax boxes, and an upgrade it is indeed. I was quite skeptical about what a small ported box like this could do, but it was for no reason. Now, don't get me wrong, the sealed boxes were outstanding as well, but you just can't get below 30 hz with them very well. If you are looking for a small home theater box, this is it! I could not be happier with how this little project turned out.
Just a couple things that I did that I would have found helpful had I never built one before. Sand. sand, and then sand. Then use a high end wood filler on the seams, then sand again. If you're the best ever at doing DIY boxes, you will still need to sand, not saying anything bad about how it is engineered, we just can't make it perfect. I then used a high cover primer, Kilz premium with multiple applications. Then flat black oil bases paint. Probably easier with duratex but I have never been a fan of how that looks.
Trust me when I say this, you will NOT need bass shakers if you have these, you will feel it. Thanks Erich!
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General Information |
Brand: | Denovo Audio Inc. |
Model: | Cube-18 |
Material: | Premium 3/4" MDF |
Width: | 24 inches |
Height: | 24.5 inches |
Depth: | 25.25 inches |
Volume: | 6.88cuft Gross - 5.5cuft Net |
Tuning Frequency: | 18hz with slot port |
Outer Cutout: | 18.3" |
Inner Cutout | 16.69" |
Weight: | About 100lbs |
Price Break Down:
Cube-18: $169.37Packaging material for both packages: $16Packing costs: $25Cost: $210.37
Paypal Fee: $7.63
Total Cost: $218
Picked up in person: Please contact me.
Pricing for 10 or more cabinets: Please contact me.
Recommended Tools:
Assembly Notes:
This is an easy cabinet to assemble and can be done a few different ways. Believe it or not the panels go together so good that some people have assembled these just using masking tape to hold the pieces together. That's actually what they do in cabinet shops. My directions make assembly sound a bit harder than it actually is, but once you have the panels laid out, you'll see how easy it can be done. My directions assume you're using a wood glue like TiteBond, Elmers wood glue, or something similar.
Assembly Tip: When clamping, you don't need to put lots of pressure on the panels, just enough to keep them from sliding around. Too much clamping pressure just squeezes all your glue out which isn't really a good thing.
Assembly Tip: Dry fit panels as you go and mark where you need to put glue so that glue is used anywhere two pieces of wood touch. Take your time.
Assembly Tip: Rabbet joints are purposely cut about 1/64" bigger to allow for user error, slight shifting, excess wood glue, etc. while gluing them up.
Assembly Tip: Sit the bottom panel up on something to keep it a few inches off your work bench. This allows the head of your clamps to fit under the panel so you can clamp the other pieces to it much easier.
I prefer to glue the port pieces together in first. Then bracing. Photos coming.
Last piece is the outer baffle. Just put a bead of glue around the edges, then around the woofer cutout, then just drizzle it around the rest of the areas. Lay the baffle on. It will slide around a little bit, but don't worry. Lightly tighten your clamps down while working your way around the box shifting the baffle into position. If you have a small clamp, you can use it inside the woofer cutout to clamp the inner baffle to the outer baffle.
More Tips: