If the first thing that comes to mind when you hear “perm” is a mix of frizzy ’80s curls, your mom’s wedding photos, and that one scene from Legally Blonde, you are very much not alone. Up until the last few years, perms really were synonymous with some old-school hair vibes. But I’m happy to report that perms—as with many of our makeup and hair trends—have come a loooong way in the last few decades, and there’s officially a newer perm in town: wavy perms (i.e., body wave perms or demi-perms or beach-wave perms).
Wavy perms are a looser, softer, more-modern version of the classic perm, and they’re great for adding some beachy body to your stick-straight hair or for relaxing your curl pattern. Intrigued? I thought so, which is why I broke down everything you’ve wanted to know about a wavy perm or body wavy perm, including some before-and-after pics from one Cosmo editor who actually tried it herself.
What’s the difference between a perm and a body-wave perm?
Before you can understand how a wavy perm is different from a regular perm, you gotta know how perms work. In the simplest of simple explanations, a perm is a chemical treatment that breaks the bonds of your hair to change its structure, leaving your hair with a new texture. That texture (whether it’s super-tight curls or loose waves) depends on the type of rods or rollers your stylist uses on your hair—the thinner the rod, the tighter the curl.
The exact technique and application method behind your body wave perm, or wavy perm, will totally differ depending on your hair type, the look you’re going for, and, most importantly, the hair salon. But you can expect the end result to be waves—maybe beachy waves or loose waves or somewhat tighter waves but wavy hair all the same.
Can you get a wavy perm?
Yes, wavy perms are possible on most hair types, but that doesn’t necessarily mean they’re advisable for all hair types. According to hairstylist Briana Dunning, the best candidate for a perm is someone who has healthy virgin hair, meaning that their hair has never been dyed or chemically treated (although Dunning says that single-processed color is fine—just nothing that involves bleach). Why? Because those hair types tend to already have some level of damage, and it’s never a great idea to add more damage to the fire.
Of course, that’s not to say you can’t get a perm if you have damaged, bleached, or chemically-treated hair, but you may not get the best, healthiest-looking results. Thankfully, your stylist will make the final call, so the decision isn’t fully on you.
How long does a wavy perm last?
Depending on your hair texture and how your stylist permed your hair, you can expect a wavy perm to last anywhere from four to six months before needing a touch-up appointment to keep your waves fresh.
Does a wavy perm damage your hair?
Any sort of chemical treatment, including a body wave perm, will damage your hair to some extent, since it’s using chemicals to alter the natural state of your hair. That’s not to say a wavy perm will destroy the health of your hair any more than blow-drying a few times a week will, but it’s important to note that this treatment—like all chemical treatments—isn’t exactly “gentle” either.
How much does a wavy perm cost?
Again, because wavy perms are so customizable, the final price will depend on where you live (big cities are way more expensive than rural areas), the length, health, and texture of your hair, and the skill level of your stylist. That being said, a wavy perm can cost anywhere from $60 to $300 or more, so always call ahead for pricing before booking an appointment.
Can I get my hair wet or sleep on my hair after a perm?
“For the first 48 hours after your perm, you need to avoid disturbing your hair as much as possible, which means brushing it, tying it tightly up, or washing it,” says Dunning. So no sweaty gym sessions, no showers, and no hair ties or clips while you sleep. “You don’t want to disturb the curl pattern as it sets,” she says.
How should I prepare for my perm appointment?
By not washing your hair, oddly enough. Dunning tells her clients to come to the salon with dirty hair, since “we don’t want to disturb the natural oils on your scalp too much, because it creates a protective barrier,” she says.
And make sure to do your research beforehand. “Look at different textures so you can have an idea of what you do and do not want,” says hairstylist Aura Flores. A visual reference is always the best way to go, so start checking those Instagram “perm” hashtags and saving them to your hair board. “Also, be honest about your day-to-day hair regimen and how much time you like to spend on it,” says Aura, “since it’ll give us a better idea of how to treat your hair.”
WAVY PERM PROCESS
How long does a wavy perm usually take?
Aura says that it really varies depending on the length and density of her clients’ hair and how curly they want it to be. “We always allow about two-and-a-half hours, just to be safe,” Briana says. So if you have short hair and only want a slight wave, expect for it to take much less time than if you wanted your butt-length hair in ringlets. FWIW, when Cosmo’s emerging platforms director Mia Lardiere got beachy waves on her shoulder-length hair, her whole perm process took about two-ish hours.
What happens during a wavy perm?
According to Mia: “A lot of sitting, to be honest. After shampooing my hair, my stylist Aura began the wrapping process, where she rolled small sections of hair around bendy perm rods. The rods had all different thicknesses to help my waves look more natural and less uniform in the end.”
“Then, using a ketchup-bottle-looking container, she poured the perm solution all over my head—my hairline and eyes were protected—and let it sit and process for about 30 minutes. If I had wanted wanted a tighter curl, my hair would have to process for even longer. When my hair had reached the ~right~ level of curl, Aura rinsed it with lukewarm water, waited five minutes, applied a neutralizer, and then rinsed again after five minutes.
“After delicately removing the rods, she diffused my hair and...officially left me with the hair of my dreams. Truly, she nailed the beachy texture I was after, and my straight hair was left with waves that looked like I spent the entire day playing in the ocean, or successfully navigating a curling iron."
WAVY PERM AFTERCARE
How do you take care of your perm?
“After the first 72 hours passed, I was able to wash and style my hair however I wanted,” says Mia. “Getting accustomed to a whole new washing and styling routine was a challenge at first, but after a few weeks and switching up my products, the whole thing became an easy routine.”
“I now shampoo and condition my hair every three days, avoiding products with sulfates in them—they can dry TF out of your curls and waves—and after I wash my hair, I gently squeeze out the moisture using an old cotton T-shirt and scrunch in a few handfuls of moisturizing, wave-enhancing mousse.
“If I have the time, I’ll let my hair air-dry. Otherwise, I flip it over my head and blow-dry it in sections, using a diffuser. After my hair is dry and wavy, I scrunch a defining cream into my waves to help them hold their shape. In between washes, I blast my roots with dry shampoo and mist a little water over my hair to reactivate the waves, then smooth some more cream through the ends for definition. I also try to deep-condition my hair once a week to keep it moisturized, especially since perms can take their toll on your hair health.”
4 really, really good shampoos and conditioners worth trying
IGK Hot Girls Hydrating Shampoo
Rahua Hydration Shampoo
Olaplex No.5 Bond Maintenance Conditioner
THE FINAL PERM WORD
In the end, deciding whether or not to perm your hair is totally your own decision. But if you were to ask Mia? “I would abso-freaking-lutely get wavy perm again,” she says. “Having a perm has not only streamlined my morning hair routine, since I actually have a style and texture to work with now, but it’s also given me all the praise from my friends and coworkers, and it makes me look like I just got back from the beach even if I’ve been sitting in my apartment all day. If that isn’t magic, I don’t know what is.”
Chloe Metzger is the deputy beauty director at Cosmopolitan, overseeing the editorial content and growth strategy of the hair, makeup, and skin space on digital, while also obsessively writing about the best hair products for every hair type (curly girl here; whattup), and the skincare routines that really, truly work (follow her on Instagram to see behind-the-scenes pics of that magazine life). She brings nearly a decade of writing and editing expertise, and her work has appeared in Allure, Health, Fitness, Marie Claire, StyleCaster, and Parents. She also has an unhealthy adoration for Tom Hanks and would like to please meet him one day, if you could arrange that. Thanks.
Mia Lardiere (she/her) is Cosmopolitan’s emerging platforms director, who oversees Cosmo’s Snapchat Discover channels, TikTok page, and special projects. She works with TikTok influencers and IRL experts to craft excellent educational content. She also occasionally contributes fitness and lifestyle articles. In her spare time, she runs with the Brooklyn Track Club and awaits the day that she will become a mom to a mini sheepadoodle.
