Monticello in Winter, and Why That's the Best Time to Visit

Thomas Jefferson's Monticello shows a different (and less crowded) side during the colder months.

December 19, 2014

With its focus on entertaining, and prominent salon and dining room, it can be a little surprising to see how modest Monticello's Christmas decorations are. But Christmas decorations at the time were accents, not focal points. And modest as they are, with greens gathered from around the grounds, they add an undeniable gaiety and brightness to the house.
So what’s the traveler in search of something different to do when it comes to visiting a site so iconic? For Monticello, the best answer may be to visit in winter. During the off-season, smaller crowds make it easier to tour the house and grounds in relative quiet, allowing travelers to experience them as they must have been in their heyday. The intrusion of the cold into the home and the curatorial staff’s efforts to convey the home in season only heighten the immediacy of the experience.

Central Virginia winters are generally mild, with highs in the mid-40s even in January, the coldest month, so it’s still a pleasure to walk Monticello’s grounds, located on a so-called "little mountain," as well as the hiking trails on adjoining lands. The gray Virginia winters coupled with the relative quiet of the off-season lend the grounds a contemplative air that's perfect for a brisk stroll.
After a walk around the grounds, Jefferson’s entrance hall makes an inviting spot to warm up. The room, which reflects Jefferson’s diverse interests, is decorated with natural curiosities, like a mastodon jaw and elk antlers, maps of the known world and regions still to be explored, and Native American gifts from the then newly acquired American West.

The curatorial staff does an outstanding job using seasonal touches to provide a sense of life in the house. In Jefferson’s bedroom, a pair of winter boots and a fur hat worn by the man himself give the impression that he has just stepped into the other room. And the wolf pelt on his bed for keeping the cold at bay on the chilliest nights gives a true sense of the challenges the elements presented even in a well-appointed home.
Thomas Jefferson's Monticello in Winter
It’s on the flip side of the nickel, the subject of innumerable patriotic middle-school dioramas, and has hosted the most famous macaroni and cheese dinners in history. In short, Monticello is one of the most recognizable homes in the United States. So it’s not exactly off the beaten path, which may put seasoned travelers off. In spite of its familiarity, Monticello still holds a fantastic capacity to surprise, with the ingenuity and occasional whimsy of its design, the stunning beauty of its grounds, and its unflinching look at the complex and maddening world in which it was built.

Most visitors to Monticello only see the ground floor, but the striking upstairs bedrooms and the beautiful Dome Room are not to be missed. The bedrooms are a particular treat for design fans. With their simple white walls, beautiful textiles, and surprisingly simple, rustic furniture, they feel downright modern. While the two daily Behind-the-Scenes Tours sell out well in advance during the summer, in winter tickets can usually be had on short notice. In December, Holiday Evening Tours present an additional opportunity to see the upstairs.
The real celebrations took place in the dining room, where two of Jefferson’s innovations ensured a steady supply of food and drink to revelers. The first was a dumbwaiter (which, in spite of what you’ve heard, he did not invent, just improved) built into either side of the fireplace to ensure wine arrived throughout the festivities as if by magic. The other was a serving door that allowed kitchen staff to place dishes on shelves on the rotating door so food could be delivered without intruding upon the party.

But the revelry upstairs depended on the efforts of the enslaved working out of sight. While it’s an uncomfortable subject, Monticello does an excellent job of addressing slavery forthrightly. At the Crossroads Exhibit located in the cellar beneath the Entrance Hall, visitors can view an exhibit on the labor of the slaves who worked there, including the person manning the other end of the dumbwaiter above. Just off the cellar is the recently restored period kitchen where slaves would have prepared Monticello’s lavish feasts. For a more in-depth look, Monitcello also offers extensive information on slavery on its website.
If Monticello’s Christmas decorations seem a little spare by contemporary standards, the food was definitely not. The staff has set out a spread of holiday treats in the tea room ranging from the intriguing mince pies made with apples, raisins, and beef suet to the even more intriguing wine jelly.

Thomas Jefferson's Monticello in Winter