Welcome back to Two-Night Minimum, a series of city guides for those who want to get to the heart of a place in a short time—whether it’s on a business trip or a weekend vacation. For this Singapore edition, we independently scoped out more than 100 venues to distill the very best of the best; every recommendation below has earned our most discerning stamp of approval.

Amid a boom period in 1990s Singapore, it became a common joke among locals that you couldn’t hack it in the city-state without five coveted C’s: cash, a credit card, a car, a condo, and membership at a country club.

It took a mere 20 years to get from there to Crazy Rich Asians—the 2014 novel and subsequent Hollywood blockbuster that revealed to global audiences the new stratospheric heights of Singaporean affluence. And in the intervening time, Singapore has started banking on a sixth C: confidence.

Where Singaporeans may have previously been evasive about their reputation as a straight-laced and rule-abiding society, now they own this identity with pride: It has made their home a port in the storm of an uncertain world. If Singapore itself was once seen as overly staid, now its sense of stability is a reason to invest; it’s attracted venture capitalists, foreign tech startups and legions of Chinese centi-millionaires, ballooning wealth in the city-state and building fresh pride for local culture.

A new generation of hawker stalls is crafting traditional cuisine—be it Chinese, Indian, Peranakan or Malay—with the sophistication you’d expect from white-tablecloth dining. On almost any Grab ride (the ubiquitous app is Asia’s answer to Uber), you’ll see public housing projects that look like architectural marvels rather than drab residential blocks. And green spaces are being sustainably rethought to serve dual purposes, not just for public enjoyment but also to keep the famously hot city cool in the face of global warming. These changes aren’t just making the tiny island nation a more compelling place to live, but a more exciting destination to discover.

Here’s a cheat sheet to help you make the most of your visit—whether you have two nights or two weeks.

Life in Singapore revolves around eating, with hawker centers typically opening early for the breakfast bustle around 7 a.m. (At these places, locals know to tapao—which means eat on the go, ideally in spots with air conditioning.) Protracted lunches are followed by a kopi (coffee) pick-me-up in the mid-afternoon; the rise of fancy bars has made a tradition out of fancy happy hours, too. Then it’s off to dinner around 7 p.m., but everyone’s favorite meal of the day here is supper: a convivial (yet substantial) top-off from 10 p.m. onwards, once the temperature cools and the kids are in bed.

● Bedok Interchange
Travelers arriving at Changi Airport in the morning—hours before their hotel check-in—tend to mine the airport for its many attractions. But nearby Bedok, the country’s largest campus of public housing, is a better (if more adventurous) option, offering delicious eats with a glimpse of honest, workaday Singapore. Join commuting locals at its tangle of hawker centers for the steamed rice cake topped with fermented radish at Bedok Chwee Kueh—it’s both the name of the dish and the stall, as is customary in these food halls—or sample stir-fried kway teow noodles served by several vendors throughout.

● Keng Eng Kee Seafood
Tie on a plastic bib and join the sweaty, smoky fray at the decades-old institution “KEK” in Alexandra Village, where extended families dine al fresco on wok-prepared dishes. The chilli crab is a must (it’s Singapore’s unofficial national dish—and more savory than spicy), as is the Moonlight Harfun, so named for the lunar-like raw egg that you swirl into the steaming heap of sprouts, gravy and thick-cut noodles.

● Holland Village Dessert Crawl
Follow a single road, Jalan Merah Saga, to do afternoon tea the Singaporean way—by stringing together a bunch of sweets. There are flaky, spiral-shaped croissants called “crolls” at Keong Saik Bakery and traditional Breton kouign amann pinwheels at Tiong Bahru Bakery. At Sunday Folks, elaborate soft-serve creations get swirled atop waffle rafts, but if you’re feeling bold, tuck into durian ice cream at The Daily Scoop at the end of the block. It’s all in “Holland V,” a popular hub for expats situated a 20-minute Grab ride northwest of the skyscrapers downtown.

● Seroja
Right near the Arab quarter is the postmodern Malay-style Seroja, which, at first glance, looks as sterile and cold as the swooshing stone countertop anchoring its dining room. But there’s sincerity baked into every dish. We can’t stop thinking about the sweet tufts of roti puang, perfect for sopping up the creamy curry on the flounder gulai lemak. At a table near ours, one diner requested a second loaf to take home; we regret not doing the same.

● Burnt Ends
If you’re seeking a reprieve from Asian flavors, look no further than Burnt Ends, located in the COMO Dempsey commercial hub. It’s billed as an Australian barbecue, yet it’s more like a sandbox for chefs eager to play with the transformative power of fire. Reserve a seat online for the “Chef’s Counter Seating,” and instead of ordering from the menu, give your server a price cap (US$200 will do the trick). Soon a bevy of gout-inducing dishes will arrive, like a decadent beef-and-uni bite, yakitori-style sumac chicken oysters, and a smoked quail egg topped with caviar.

● Haute Eats on Amoy Street
Amoy Street is so jam-packed with stellar eats, it’s as though the Michelin Man traipsed down the block and handed out stars to every establishment. During the day, find a rising generation of (modern) hawkers like A Noodle Story, which serves ramen with sous vide pork at the Amoy Street Food Center. In the evening, food nerds flock to Nouri where a prix fixe processional spans the globe from the chef’s native Brazil to the recesses of South Asia. Across the road, the three-story Native makes elaborate pan-Asian cocktails, many using homemade spirits like mead fermented from calamansi citrus.

● Atlas
A dazzling homage to the art deco era, Atlas is Gotham incarnate with gilt, geometric decor, moody lighting and—most notably—a tower full of obscure spirits that climbs from the main bar all the way up to the vaulted ceilings. While gin is the primary focus, there’s an extensive Champagne program as well. Don’t miss the mini croque monsieur—the perfect midnight snack.

● The Swan Song
The Swan Song’s understated, second-story space along Boat Quay is more reminiscent of Singapore’s discreet private club scene than most glitzy bars in town. Wooden paneling and wall-to-wall shelving put some of the finest whiskies in the world on display, all individually hand-picked by the owners, who scour the planet for the rarest vintages. Connoisseurs will duly spot the very reasonable prices for such exclusive drams, like a Longmorn Highland Inn for S$25 and an Oban 12-Year from the 1970s for S$50.

● Trade hawker stalls for home-cooked meals
The fetishization of both Singapore’s hawker stalls and its upmarket offerings has given visitors the impression that there’s very little in between. Au contraire. An ecosystem of innovative in-home dining experiences treats guests to the family recipes they crave, with a heaping portion of hospitality to boot. Reservations need to be sorted well in advance (as soon as you book your flight)—usually via WhatsApp or Instagram. A simple online search will yield the latest opportunities, as venues frequently open and shutter, and experiences can be as varied as breaking bread with a meddlesome auntie to taste-testing new creations with a young, upstart chef. Start by trying the following: Teochew Clan, Amphang Kitchen, Liu Fu Si Fang Cai, and Baan Ah Chew.

● Buy Into the Hype at Marina Bay Sands
Marina Bay Sands is Singapore’s most recognizable landmark, with its three columnar towers (a fourth is in the works) topped by a swooshing veranda sporting the world’s largest infinity pool. The swimming deck is only for guests of the namesake hotel, but visitors can dine at the adjacent CÉ LA VI Skybar, which offers the same views. Before heading up, pause to ogle the quarter-million-dollar vehicles pulling up to the hotel’s valet; later, head out back to the Gardens by the Bay, a horticultural marvel blending millions of plants with a grove of Avatar-esque “supertrees.” (They’re manmade, climbable towers, which also capture solar energy and absorb greenhouse gases.) Continuing the floral theme are the steel lotus-petal flourishes atop the ArtScience Museum, also on-site; it’s great for its kid-friendly digital light shows and VR experiences. With so much to do, it’s no wonder that this has become one of Singapore’s most popular—and worthy—attractions.

● Commune with literal night owls
A 30-minute Grab ride from the central business district, the Night Safari at the Mandai Wildlife Reserve (S$55) is the world’s first zoo concept dedicated to nocturnal creatures from all over the planet, from the endangered pangolins of Asia and Africa to the Tasmanian devil, not to mention several species of owls and slow lorises. A series of walkable trails and a guided tram ride introduce guests to such lesser-known creatures as the binturong “bear-cat” and babirusa “deer-pig.” But mostly the preserve offers a great way to breathe in some fresh air in relative comfort—doors open after the blazing equatorial sun has set; bookable time slots begin at 7:15 p.m.

● Artisanal Orchard Road
As the playground of Asia’s ultra-wealthy, Singapore isn’t lacking in Guccis, Pradas and Vuittons, but there are plenty of small local brands to prioritize instead—even along Orchard Road, the county’s main shopping artery. Bynd Artisan, a decades-old book bindery turned leather goods brand, offers supple wallets, luggage tags and totes. And don’t miss our favorite part of the National Museum of Singapore: the Supermama flagship store, which specializes in unique pan-Asian ceramics.

● Chinatown
Dwarfed by the corporate towers next door, the spires of Chinatown’s places of worship—Buddhist, Hindu and Muslim—speak to Singapore’s diversity. The highly walkable area, however, is best known for its brightly painted shophouses that were once inhabited by Chinese immigrants during 19th century British rule. Today, most have been converted into everything from hawker-style restaurants (try the pork soup at Song Fa Bak Kut Teh) to small boutiques (Tea Chapter’s loose-leaf oolong is a must as a souvenir). Club Street, so named for its preponderance of bars dating back almost 150 years, is where you’ll find Le Bon Funk, whose drinks always ought to be accompanied by the light, aromatic paradise jelly and foie gras appetizer; it’s like pâté snowflakes on toast. Some of our other favorite haunts in the area, like Offtrack and Tippling Club, hide down quiet alleys and in former karaoke clubs of questionable repute. For a bird’s-eye view of the snaking lanes of shophouses and beyond (on a clear day you can see both Malaysia and Indonesia), snag a ticket (S$6) to access the observation deck at the top of The Pinnacle@Duxton, a new-ish public housing complex that looks like a futuristic lattice of towers and skybridges.

● Joo Chiat-Katong
You’ll need to pop in and out of taxis to explore the sprawling residential and commercial blocks of easterly Joo Chiat-Katong. But it’s worth it for the most vibrant experience of Peranakan culture. Start at the Intan, a two-room living museum whose flamboyant steward personally tours guests through his collection of antiques, ornate footwear and objets d’art. Then snap photos of the Peranakan baroque shophouses along nearby Koon Seng and Joo Chiat roads—the latter dead-ends at the massive Geylang Serai Market, where vendors sell ginger root, textiles and halal meats. In a Malay food hall upstairs, you can snack on traditional otak-otak (leaf-wrapped fish cakes) and chendol, a refreshing dessert made with shaved ice and jelly noodles. Make a U-turn on Joo Chiat Road and you’ll find an architectural grab bag of mansions, temples and malls, plus the trendy coffee shops and cafes such as Nimbus and Monk’s Brew Club.

Just 10 minutes from Singapore’s downtown core are the white sand beaches of Sentosa Island, which benefits from a rich history as a 19th century British defense outpost. These days, its old barracks comprise two noteworthy resorts.

At the Capella Singapore, a gabled colonnade and shuttered windows greet guests who can then scamper off to mod, oversize villas. And at the aptly named The Barracks Hotel Sentosa, rooms are retrofitted directly into the old dorms; the ground-floor ones have direct access to an inviting swimming pool in the back.

For real-deal castaway vibes, try Nikoi, a nearby private island resort across the Indonesian border, reachable in two-and-a-half hours by boat and private transfer from Singapore’s Tanah Merah ferry terminal.

We may ignore restaurant franchises in our hometowns, but in Singapore, it’s wise to embrace the chain. A legion of local brands have spawned multiple locations because of their incredible popularity; for instance, Singaporeans will choose Wee Nam Kee for Hainanese chicken rice any day rather than the more written-about establishments with long lines and international accolades. (We loved it, too.) Similarly, if you see a Ya Kun Kaya Toast, pop in for a coconut jam sandwich and an ultra-strong cup of black coffee.

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