markm75

I finally got around to getting these cascadia fenders with 130mm flaps.. (original goal being hoping the flaps are long enough to keep my 2 year old from getting tons of dirt in the instep trailer, or extend them if need be)...

I'm slightly concerned on spacing.. i think the spacing is adequate.. i guess the better concern would be the front wheels not the rear (flip issue if a stick gets in there possibly).. these first pics are from the rear and then a wide shot of both..
**the other issue is the brake line on the rear fender.. i had to push upward with the fender to get enough clearance but its pushing on the line as well, so thats made tweaking the rear brakes a bit of a chore.





I actually tweaked things a bit after these.. i guess i actually could still have too much space in parts of the rear fender.



One issue i did have was the bike rack on the rear is actually binding the bar from the fender a bit (fender bar is under it), so i had to tweak the nuts on both sides to pull it centered over the tire.. i think it worked out.
I need a slightly better angle shot on the front wheel, though its not bad. Guidance in the instructions seems to indicate 10mm is the minimum gap recommended.
Any thoughts overall?

More on the Boulder SE issue below..
Thanks in advance

mcours2006

When I have studded tires on my commuter the space is pretty tight, but as long the stays are tight and properly adjusted it should be fine. The front stays are meant to break loose of they get caught by a stone or something.

jefnvk

Are you using the proper width for the tires you have? They look a bit narrow to me, but it could just be the camera angle.

Hoopdriver

I've always used 3/8" minimum as my guideline, but I try for 1/2" if possible if I can get it to look right. Having once hurdled the bars due to captured debris, I don't want a repeat. I now have the breakaway front fittings but have not had an occasion to know if they actually work.

Bummer about your brake line interference. I think that cable will wear through the plastic fender before long. If I were in your position, I would be tempted to re-engineer the fender by cutting a groove where the interference is and then gluing in a short section of plastic tubing, which could then be grooved for the cable. The key is how much cutting you would have to do on the fender. As long as you don't compromise more than 25% of its width, it should work. In any case, you already have them installed so wait 'til it wears through and then decide.

Good luck

markm75

Yeah the brake line is the only real issue i have after tweaking some more.. i just cant adjust the brakes to be really strong in the back now as a result.. fronts are ok.. there is the plastic covering on the brake line.. the idea of tubing sounds interesting but i'm not sure how thick the fender plastic is to make a channel, may be worth at least a groove.

I thought maybe i could replace the v brakes with pull type, but i'm not up on brakes so to speak and a brief chat with the local bike shop seems to suggest it really cant be done on my bike at least.

In terms of these fenders cutting down on debris flying into the trailer.. they were only marginally helpful.. well maybe 50% less, but there was still a bit in the trailer after a 10 mile ride.. it was suggested before to maybe attach a piece of rubber to extend even lower (such as maybe this one that i still have in house, either into the fender or into the 130mm rubber that exists on there already, unsure).. i may try that, but i really hate to make holes in the fender if i can avoid it (so i might try using a mosquito net over the main net of the trailer first and see if this keeps it out). I dont think the amazon one is long enough to make holes in the fender itself and go over the existing flap, i'd have to make holes in the fenders flap.. or maybe try a soda bottle cut trick i saw some do.. if long enough just start at the fender and overlap the existing flap and then some by maybe 2-3 more inches.

markm75

I think originally the bike had 2.10 or 2.0 maybe.. these are 1.95's, they have been the same tires i have had on it for about 8 years by some miracles chance.. still doing ok (bike rails to trails often in the summer).

tyrion

You might be able to get a v-brake with a longer arm. Here's a list of some v-brake arm lengths:

https://www.gravelbike.com/v-brake-arm-lengths/

V-brakes are fairly inexpensive. With a longer arm you'll lose a hair of brake pad travel, but that's probably inconsequential.

jefnvk

I actually meant proper width fenders for the tires on the bike

MAK

You're spacing looks adequate for the road.. One caution...If you're going off road, you'll likely need additional clearance for mud. I had a multi day ride(C&O Canal) ruined because mud accumulated and gummed everything up. Stopping every two miles to remove both wheels and scrape out the mud became unacceptable.

markm75

I took a look at the list.. mine seem to be about 4.5" long , roughly 114mm.. i think these CYSKY's on amazon appear to be around 5" in length.. i tried to look for just Shimano or similar quality brands.. i dont know much about brake quality and brands to pick from, whether these are solid or not.. this might be better suited in another thread if not simple..
Also.. the threading at the end of my existing cable is frayed (the keeper at the end came loose).. i think the entire cable might need replaced as well, unsure.. i've never tried to rethread one of these as of yet, but i guess maybe its not that hard to do.

markm75

On the other side of this subject.. my wifes bike is a Boulder SE by Giant.. it has shocks on the front and there are no holes on the front, none on the rear, at least none that take the thread of the bolts that came with the Cascadia kit..

Here are some pictures of this dilemma..

Also this front fender arch has a hole but isnt threaded and is only on one side.. unsure if i could just simply zip tie this to the arch or not?




On the wheel mounting spot.. since there are no holes I see only a few options, maybe a zip tie through a crack and back around but might be too loose.. or taking the quick release out and threading it through the fender rod, but that seems unsafe to me?

Any thoughts.. thinking i'm out of luck with this bike and this particular fender unfortunately.

tyrion

On the Amazon page it says "Arch size 107mm" - I assume that means length, and I assume length means pivot to pivot.

You don't need a clean wire end to install them if you don't replace the rubber boot.

They're such simple devices I'm not sure what a high end one would get you. I just got an $18 pair and they look fine except for the pads - I used my old Kool Stop pads, which definitely do look higher quality than the ones that came with the new set.

markm75

Ok, though the picture they show about 5" for the length top to bottom, this if true is about a half inch taller and will work well for my bike.. now my wifes bike.. whole other issue

markm75

I thought maybe i could get P clamps with the rubber in them for mounting to the stem.. but 1" wasnt large enough (for the front)..


I think i might just use a zip tie directly into the hole where the screw would go for the fronts.. and probably for the back.. there definitely is no where to use a grip on the back, at least not near the hub.. maybe on the bike rack arms itself however.

rumrunn6

all kinds of fun! you might start a separate thread for your wife's bike ...

re, your bike: you can cut the rear fender in half & mount just the back half. in this example I used just the front half



& add a DIY rear flap using a mousepad (best DIY I've seen) see post #2

DIY mud flaps

& add break-away, quick-release tabs. you just insert the fender stay vertex into them

before


after


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001N84RHU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

remove the front fender entirely since you don't need it

the clearance on them looks pretty average, meaning acceptable

markm75

Finished the other bike.. pretty satisfied with the zip tie approach.. just enough spacing i think too.