What is fraisier?
Fraisier, a traditional French cake, consists of a sponge cake soaked in kirsch, filled with mousseline cream and a generous amount of strawberries (hence its name), and is usually covered with a thin layer of pink or green almond paste.
Although the authentic recipe calls for mousseline cream, it is no longer at all rare to see it being replaced today by buttercream, a cream composed of softened butter, eggs, and sugar. Another filling is diplomat cream, made up of whipped pastry cream and gelatin.
It is no longer at all unusual that some pastry chefs replace the traditional strawberry sponge cake with a Joconde sponge, or even ladyfingers (AKA savoiardi).
It is also very common for some pastry chefs to flavor the sponge, whichever type is used, and / or the cream, with pistachio.
Square or round, cream is spread all around the edge and over the top, which then has sliced fresh strawberries arranged upon it. The cake is then topped by a second sponge cake which is then covered with a thin film of almond paste (marzipan).
What is the origin of fraisier?
The origins of the first fraisier are very vague. Auguste Escoffier (1846 – 1935), baptized “King of Cooks and Cook of Kings”, a famous French chef, restaurateur and culinary author, in his work Le Guide Culinaire (a cookbook that qualifies as the “Cooks’ Bible”), published in 1903, cites a few recipes incorporating raw strawberries and kirsch into batter.
Wild strawberries, which have been popular since ancient times, were the first used for the preparation of these strawberry cakes.
While some recipes in Le Guide Culinaire are vaguely reminiscent of today’s fraisier, the appearance of the modern cake didn’t really take hold until 1966.
Indeed, in 1966, Gaston Lenôtre (1920 – 2009), the famous French pastry chef, gave birth to the fraisier as we know it today. He called it Bagatelle in reference to the magnificent “Jardins de Bagatelle”, located in the Bois de Boulogne, west of Paris, but today it is commonly referred to just as “fraisier”.
Later, illustrious pastry chefs such as Pierre Hermé, Christophe Felder, Philippe Conticini, Cyril Lignac, or Christophe Michalak will compete with their creations, helping to make strawberries this mythical and symbolic French pastry.
Mousseline cream
Mousseline cream is composed of pastry cream and butter, typical of French pastry, halfway between custard and buttercream.
The butter is incorporated in two batches, half when the pastry cream is still hot and the other half when it is cold, then expanding it with a whisk.
It is a smooth cream, an enriched pastry cream, used not only with fraisier but also with several toppings such as choux, mocha, Paris-Brest, framboisier, cupcakes, even a variant of millefeuille.
In some recipes such as the Yule log, mousseline cream can replace buttercream, which is sometimes more difficult to make.
It adapts to several flavors such as vanilla or other flowers, fruits, chocolate or coffee. You can also, as in the case with Kirsch, add a liqueur or alcohol such as rum or Grand Marnier to it, of course respecting the amount of sugar, since the alcohol may relax the cream.
Since the process of making this cream consists of adding the butter in two stages, half when the cream is hot, and the other half when it is cold, the temperature of the butter is essential so as not to ruin the entire preparation.
The butter should be at room temperature, soft and not too different from the temperature of the cream. The result is a velvety and consistent cream, which does not collapse.
Even if the amount of butter may seem excessive, it is important not to reduce it, otherwise the mousseline cream will not have the right consistency, and the taste will also be affected.
Mousseline cream can be stored in the refrigerator for 24 hours, covered with a cling film. But it is important to leave it at room temperature at least 30 minutes before working it. As soon as it comes back to room temperature a little, it should be whipped again to relax before using.
This recipe is validated by our culinary expert in French cuisine, Chef Simon. You can find Chef Simon on his website Chef Simon – Le Plaisir de Cuisiner.
Fraisier
Ingredients
For the sponge cake
- 3 medium whole eggs
- ¼ cup caster sugar
- ½ cup flour
- 3 tablespoons cornstarch
For the mousseline cream
- 2 cups whole milk
- 4 egg yolks
- 1 vanilla pod
- ½ cup caster sugar
- ½ cup cornstarch
- ¾ cup softened butter , cut into cubes
For the syrup
- ¼ cup caster sugar
- 3 tablespoons water
- 3 tablespoons Kirsch
For the assembly
- 21 oz strawberries of the same size , washed and dried
For the decor
- 21 oz green or pink marzipan
Equipment
- Stand Mixer
- Non-stick saucepan
- Balloon whisk
- Large spatula
- Removable cake ring (7 inches / 18 cm in diameter and at least 3 inches / 8 cm wide)
- Removable cake ring (8 inches / 20 cm in diameter and at least 3 inches / 8 cm wide)
- Pastry brush
- Piping bag
- Smooth piping nozzle
- Rhodoid ribbon (at least 8 cm wide)
Instructions
Sponge
- Preheat the oven to 350 F (180°C).
- Sift together the flour and cornstarch. Set aside.
- Place the stand mixer bowl onto a double boiler, and whisk the eggs and caster sugar until the mixture reaches around 122 F (50°C), then remove from the heat, and replace the bowl in the stand mixer.
- Whisk until doubled in size, and cooled.
- Using a large spatula, gently fold in the flour and cornstarch mixture.
- Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking sheet, place a 7 inch (18 cm) cake ring on top, and then pour in the batter.
- Cook for 15 minutes at 350 F (180°C).
- Leave the sponge to cool in the cake ring.
Mousseline cream
- Pour the milk into a non-stick saucepan.
- Split the vanilla bean in half lengthwise, then, using a small knife, scrape away the seeds and place them into the milk.
- Bring to a boil.
- In another non-stick saucepan, whisk the yolks and sugar until white. Add the cornstarch, and mix.
- Remove the milk from the heat, and pour a third over the egg yolk mixture while whisking gently with a balloon whisk.
- Add the rest of the milk and, stirring constantly, cook over low heat until the cream thickens.
- Cover the cream with cling film (making sure it makes contact with the surface to prevent a skin forming), and cool to around 86 F (30°C).
- When the cream has cooled, in the bowl of the stand mixer, use the whisk attachment to cream the softened butter.
- Using a balloon whisk, whip the cooled cream for a few seconds, then, with the mixer still running, pour over the softened butter. Whisk until the mousseline cream is fluffed, and has the texture of mousse.
- Set aside.
Syrup
- In a saucepan over low heat, heat the water and sugar until the sugar is completely dissolved.
- Remove from the heat, then add the Kirsch and leave to cool to room temperature.
Assembling the fraisier
- Place a rhodoid strip around the inside an 8 inch (20 cm) diameter cake ring.
- Unmold the sponge, and cut into two discs.
- Place one disc in the center of the cake ring, then brush liberally with the syrup.
- Hull 12 to 14 strawberries, and cut in half lengthwise.
- Gently place strawberries of roughly the same size all around the space between the cake ring and sponge. Make sure the cut size is against the rhodoid strip and the tip is facing upward.
- Pour the mousseline cream into a piping bag, and pipe a little cream between each strawberry, leveling it well.
- Cut the rest of the strawberries into small pieces and place them on top of the sponge, then place the second disc of sponge cake on top.
- Using a pastry brush, soak this spong with the syrup, too.
- Cover with the rest of the mousseline cream and level the surface.
- Refrigerate for 5 hours.
Decor
- Once the mousseline cream has firmed up, remove the cake ring, then gently remove the rhodoid strip.
- Spread the marzipan on a work surface and, using the 8 inch (20 cm) pastry ring, cut a circle, and place it on top of the cake.
- Create a decoration of your choice for the top.
- Store in the refrigerator, and serve as quickly as possible so that the strawberries are not soggy.
Video
Notes
Sources
Wikipedia – Fraisier
Wikipedia – Auguste Escoffier
Cook and Cie
Cuisine Fil Temps
Le Petit Pattissier
Wikipedia – Guide Culinaire
Vera is the “expert” of the 196 flavors’ duo. With over 30 years of experience in the kitchen, she is now sharing her skills as a private chef and cooking instructor.
Ryan says
This looks appetizing!
Kendall says
This is a very yummy cake! Looks amazing also!