The style of HBO Max’s “Gossip Girl” pays homage to its roots in the original CW series right off the bat.
Tavi Gevinson as Kate Keller kicks off the premiere episode in a tan jacket styled over a sailor striped knit and paired with a brown leather tote. That is reminiscent of Blake Lively’s grand entrance in the 2007 pilot episode of the first iteration — and is just one of many Easter eggs hidden by costume designer Eric Daman.
“There are other visual clues sprinkled throughout the series, but this one serves as a link between old school fans and new fans who are now discovering Serena and her world for the first time,” says Daman, who also styled the original series.
Last fall, the award-winning designer returned to the set of “Gossip Girl” with hopes to further “push the boundaries of menswear and gendered clothing,” a longtime passion he had explored with Ed Westwick’s Chuck Bass.
Here, Daman breaks down his design inspirations for the new characters’ wardrobes.
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Julien Calloway (Jordan Alexander)
As Upper East Side’s new “It girl,” Julien introduces a new palate of gender-fluid school uniforms, says Daman. Her signature items, influenced by styles of Sofia Richie and Hailey Bieber, include men’s button-ups, a customized Saint Laurent varsity jacket and oversized coats from both designer and streetwear brands.
Daman adds that he couldn’t overlook the influence of Julien’s father Davis (Luke Kirby), a New York-based musician who had his heyday in the late ’90s.
“On her mood board, there’s pictures of Destiny’s Child at the VMAs from that time period,” he says. “Trying to bridge the gap between that vibe and contemporary fashion within the boundaries of uniforms was an exciting challenge.”
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Zoya Lott (Whitney Peak)
With her now outdated headscarves, Adidas sneakers and canvas tote bags, Zoya’s entrance to Constance feels far too familiar. And Daman agrees that fans of the original series may notice that “this little sister’s a bit of a nod to Jenny [Humphrey] with her grunge vibe from Buffalo.”
“But what’s important to me was to have Zoya use totes from Black-owned bookstores, wear graphic tees that send a message,” he continues.
This includes The Melanin Project, a Brooklyn-based, African-owned business, which features in Zoya’s wardrobe.
“At this time, it feels relevant and exciting for me to be able to use this platform to give voice to minority communities and reflect the inclusivity in casting in the clothing as well,” he explains.
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Max Wolfe (Thomas Doherty)
Paying homage to the inimitable Chuck Bass is Max, portrayed by “Descendants” star Thomas Doherty.
From head to toe, he serves a range of high-end uniform pieces from pinstripe blazers and silk scarves to leather loafers paired with designer socks.
Daman pushes Max’s styling even further by blending in items from womenswear with men’s, a palate he previously worked with when crafting Chuck’s wardrobe. But, here he gets to take it to a new level.
“He represents a new male identity that is more fluid, that is pansexual,” he explains. “He wears a women’s lace blouse and wears it as a gender-fighting piece. It’s a dialogue this generation is very vocal about that we could not have had during the original series.”
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Audrey Hope (Emily Alyn Lind)
At first sight, Audrey may come off as an “all-American ragdoll princess” — but her style “has an ease to it that comes naturally to Generation Z,” Daman says with a laugh. From crisp white button-ups, cable knit vests to chunky Polo sweaters, her outfits are composed of classic items that take a spin with their silhouettes. Daman explains that matching oversized, menswear tops with knee-high socks and leather walkers adds a fresh touch to her effortless looks.
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Akeno 'Aki' Menzies (Evan Mock)
Bringing high-fashion streetwear to the “Gossip Girl” audience is Aki, whose costumes are a combination of minimalist pieces with playful oversized silhouettes and proportions.
His seemingly easy yet intentional costumes incorporate everyday items including plain tees, hooded sweatshirts, flannels and denim from designer brands like Alexander McQueen and Tom Brown, paired with streetwear sneakers that complete the normcore look.
“What’s back in right now are light blue oxford shirts but in 2XL,” says Daman. “With these basics, we are playing with the early aughts of the late ’90s and harkening back to these returning trends.”
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Monet De Haan (Savannah Lee Smith) & Luna La (Zión Moreno)
New conversations on gender-fluid clothing and statement accessories aren’t enough to put an end to the hierarchies at Constance.
Carrying the torch from where Blair Waldorf left off are Monet and Luna, who are armed with form-fitting blouses and mini skirts, designer handbags and heeled leather shoes.
“Monet and Luna aren’t wearing headbands and bow blouses — they’re not in the old world of over-accessorizing — but they are still in the high-fashion world in a very new way,” says Daman. “And this was a cool way of putting in a break from the old world of ‘Gossip Girl.’ It was exciting to liberate myself from the boundaries of what was expected.”