Overview
Happi coats are a light-weight Japanese outerwear that are typically worn over Kimono or Yukata as part of an ensemble. Happi coats traditionally served as an identifier based on the designs incorporated into the fabric. Now, the term Happi refers to shorter length clothing, which has become widely popular as informal summer attire.
Appearance
The Happi coat is constructed in a similar shape as the Kimono and
Yukata, with a ¾ sleeve, and a characteristic T-design capable of fitting every body type. The coat is short, light-weight, and composed of cotton. With the cultivation of the indigo plant in Japan, Ai-zome became a common practice for dyeing textiles, so like much other clothing of the time, the common color of the Happi coat was indigo, or shade of blue or black. Now however, Happi coats come in a variety of colors and designs, especially due to its increased popularity as informal unisex summer wear.
History
The origins of the Happi coat date back to the Edo period. One of
the most distinct uses of the garment was to function as a uniform, therefore the emblem of a family would be printed upon the lapel and back of the coat to identify a group. Servants of a family would adorn these coats to show who they served. Eventually this form of identification was adopted by shop owners who would put their own crest on their coat to identify and promote their business. The Happi coat also functioned as the uniform for firefighters during the Edo period (1603c.e.-1868c.e.). “The exterior of the firefighter’s coat tended to be plain and uniform-like, with characters or numbers of the fire brigade stenciled in white for quick identification, needed if a building collapsed or a fire spread too quickly. But if the firefighters were successful in extinguishing the fire, they would turn their coats inside out and parade victoriously through the streets from the site of the quenched blaze.” (Goddard, 2003). Traditionally, the coats were worn by men, however, women eventually began wearing them to
protect their kimono from getting dirtied.
Cultural Context
From its function as a uniform, the Happi coat is still used today to
identify groups. The most notable instance in which the coat is worn, is during Japanese festivals known as Matsuri. As before, characters, symbols, and numbers are added to the coat to associate the design with a certain group. Happi coats are also featured in the Japanese traditional art of Taiko drumming. The Happi coat used by Taiko performance groups typically has no sleeves. Lastly, a variation of the Happi coat known as Hippari is specifically worn by chefs, and is distinguished by ties within the jacket that enable it to be closed without the use of a belt.
Wearing Happi
Citation
Goddard D., (4 December 2003), Edo firefighters’ outfits a work of art, retrieved from https://www.chicagotribune.com/news/ct-xpm-2003-12-04-0312040064-story.html
Japanese Traditional Clothing 