Everything I know about St. Barths I learned from reading the Gossip Girl books in middle school. So, for me, the island conjured up images of a tropical enclave for jet-setting one-percenters. However, it turns out that St. Barths has way more to offer than my middle school self could have ever imagined.
St. Barths (government name Saint Barthélemy) takes the warmth and disposition of the French countryside and drops it in the middle of the Caribbean. The tropical setting includes a landscape of rolling mountains, blue-green waters, miles of coastline, and streets lined with floral bushes. While there are aspects of the island that will remind you that it’s a French territory—French is spoken by locals, signs all across the island are written in the language, and the local currency is the euro—St. Barths’ vibrant culture and laid-back lifestyle are emblematic of the Caribbean.
I craved the salt-water scent of the ocean and the sensation of sunshine on my skin. For a Brooklynite, when the opportunity arose to leave behind the urban grind and escape to the flat, sun-bleached shores of St. Barths, it was a no brainer for me.
Headed to the Tradewind jet.
Photo: Ama Kwarteng
A view of the island sky.
Photo: Ama Kwarteng
Like any exclusive locale, there aren’t any direct flights from the US to St. Barths. There are a few ways to arrive on the island but I flew into San Juan first before flying into St. Barths on Tradewind Aviation. (Because San Juan is a US territory, you don’t have to stress about clearing customs—ideal if you, like me, hate waiting in lines.) After going through Tradewind’s security, I walked into the waiting room they had for guests waiting to board their planes. There was Wi-Fi, cold lime-flavored Perrier, and pretty cozy seating—what more could a girl ask for?
According to a conversation I had with my boss before I left, landing on St. Barths can feel like a near-death experience because of the airport’s short beachfront airstrip. As soon as the plane clears the island's jagged mountainside, they have to make a sharp descent onto the runway. Apparently, there are videos of people panicking on the way down. (For my own mental sanity, I chose not to watch this content.) I had put all of this out of my mind until I saw the plane we would be flying in on. My first thought was, “Holy shit, that’s a small plane.” In addition to me, there were seven other passengers, two co-pilots, and a crate of snacks onboard for the hour-long flight. To keep my mind off the fact that I was in a small-ass plane, I ate a bag of Sunchips and finished Diane Williams’ short story collection, I Hear You’re Rich. Thankfully, to my surprise, instead of landing at the airport by going over the mountains, we actually came in on the opposite side of the island which meant no panic-inducing descent. A win for me and my mental health.
As soon as the plane landed, a driver named Frank from the hotel I would be staying at—Rosewood Le Guanahani St. Barths—arrived with a dark blue Land Rover full of water bottles and cold towels. The driver entertained my broken French and I decided to be annoying and practice the language during the rest of the trip.
Where to Stay in St. Barths
Rosewood Le Guanahani
The wooden pathway that runs through the property.
Photo: Ama Kwarteng
A turtle who calls Le Guanahani their home.
Photo: Ama Kwarteng
I can't get over this view.
Photo: Ama Kwarteng
Rosewood Le Guanahani is located on the northern part of the island which is more secluded and intimate than other areas of St. Barths. After Hurricane Irma ravaged the property in 2017, Le Guanahani closed, underwent renovations, and re-opened in 2022 while still managing to maintain its laid-back charm. Once I arrived at the hotel, I was greeted at reception with a glass of champagne. Ambient music played in the background as a soft ocean breeze wafted across the wooden deck.
I also stopped in the hotel boutique after I first arrived. FYI: This isn’t your average, run-of-the-mill hotel gift shop—it’s a space to discover and shop new designers. The resort collaborated with designer Adriana Degreas on an exclusive capsule collection that includes two swimsuits, bags, and beach cover-ups, available on-site. I don’t typically wear one-piece swimsuits but after trying one on from this collection, I had to buy it immediately. Not only was the fit super comfortable—not too tight but not too loose—but the design was playful without trying too hard.
Later that evening, I decided to wander to the ocean, an oasis surrounded by white sand. I had barely sat on a beach chair when a staff member came over and asked me if I’d like anything to drink. I ordered a Pasadena, a tequila drink, off their cocktail menu, watched the clouds swim across the sky, and took in the awe-inspiring views.
What to do in St. Barths
Go on a leisurely hike
The idilic landscape.
Photo: Ama Kwarteng
Spotted lots of cacti on the way up.
Photo: Ama Kwarteng
There are two types of people on vacation—activity people and those who consider lying on the beach to be an activity in and of itself. Typically, I fall into the latter group—the only thing I want to do on an island is lie on the beach and read—but I decided to expand my horizons and go for a hike on day two. From the moment I opened my eyes, things were off to a rocky start. I woke up later than expected (I swore I set my alarm) so I chugged the Evian bottle that sat atop my bedside table and slathered on sunscreen before running through the property’s flora-lined wooden pathways and met up with the rest of the group while yelling, “Désolé!!” before embarking on a languorous hike.
My iPhone photos don’t do the lush scenery justice. It made it even more surprising that St. Barths has remained untouched by towering hotel skyscrapers.
Relax on the Beach
"Candid" photo.
Photo: Ama Kwarteng
Devoured this on the beach.
Photo: Ama Kwarteng
Order the octopus—you won't regret it.
Photo: Ama Kwarteng
Like I said, this trip is all about balance so I laid on a lounge chair under a straw-woven umbrella and read Autobiography of Red by Anne Carson. Le Guanahani sits on 18 acres, has two private beaches, and access to both the beach and a lagoon. Did I go into the water once? No. (But I did dip my toes in.) For those who actually want to venture into the ocean rather than just look at it, you can kite surf, paddle board, and snorkel. I read the last few pages of my book before meandering my way over to the beachside barbecue. I had fresh ceviche and octopus and washed everything down with a glass of Sancerre and another Pasadena cocktail.
Play Tennis
Feeling like a tennis pro.
Photo: Ama Kwarteng
The serene grass tennis court.
Photo: Ama Kwarteng
A grass tennis court sits on the property. Even though I hadn’t picked up a tennis racquet since high school, I immediately asked reception to schedule a session with a pro to live out my Wimbledon dreams. I was a bit rusty at the beginning of the session but I started to find my footing once I got into the swing of things (ha) and the pro complimented my backhand—still got it!
Book a Massage
Shout out to the masseuse for treating my WFH back.
Photo: Ama Kwarteng
As I’ve mentioned several times before, vacation is for relaxing so I booked a 60-minute deep tissue massage to undo the work-from-home knots in my back. Afterward, I swear my spine was straighter. The treatment rooms sit in the property’s renovated Sense Spa, which is also home to a reflection pool, an adults-only swimming pool (though, for what it’s worth, all the children I came across during my stay were extremely well-behaved), and a gazebo to relax in after your treatment. Post-massage, I wandered to the Beach House restaurant on-site and ate a few small plates before heading into town.
Explore Gustavia
One of the churches in town.
Photo: Ama Kwarteng
Some of the jewelry selections from Varda St. Barth’s.
Photo: Ama Kwarteng
Gustavia is the capital of St. Barths. Full of stone buildings capped with red roofs, the town sits near the harbor promenade. Strolling through the streets, you’ll come across the usual resort-town stores—Prada, Louis Vuitton, Hermès—and a parade of cafes and small boutiques. The best t-shirts are at St. Barth’s West Indies, the fragrances at Varda St. Barth’s smelled divine, and Le Canabiers was stocked with eye-catching dresses and swimsuits. Also, another thing I learned while drifting in and out of shops is that apparently there’s a Rolex shortage. (The watch is out of my tax bracket so I was unaware of this.) Apparently, you have to know a guy to get your hands on one—not even the residents of St. Barths are immune from the drought.
Grab a Drink at Shell Beach
The rocky beach is a lot more comfortable than it looks.
Photo: Ama Kwarteng
As you may have guessed, Shell Beach is covered in shells (they’re more comfortable to walk on than you’d think). It’s the closest beach to Gustavia. Order a drink from Shellona restaurant then sit on a day bed overlooking the water while you sip on a cocktail. If you’re feeling adventurous, bring your swimsuit—there’s a cliff nearby for those who want to climb out of the water and cliff jump.
Eat Dinner at Sella
Smoked burrata, cherry tomatoes, olive powder, basil sauce, and pita bread. Yum.
Photo: Ama Kwarteng
Sella is an open-air Israeli-inspired Mediterranean restaurant near the water. It’s also the place where I had one of the best meals of my life, no joke. Be sure to order the eggplant and the cauliflower to start the meal off.
Hike to Grand Fond Natural Pool
Ocean view on the way to the natural pool.
Photo: Ama Kwarteng
Absolutely stunning.
Photo: Ama Kwarteng
Before the Caribbean sun reaches its peak, hike to the natural pools at Grand Fond. I was told beforehand that the hike was beginner-friendly but I beg to differ—there’s quite a bit of rock scaling which places the hike firmly in the intermediate territory in my opinion. Thankfully our guide, Val, did an incredible job at steering us through the path. The views were unreal and during our hike down to the pool, we saw families of goats running through the desert flora. It was a humbling experience. When you live in a city where you can’t see the stars, it can be easy to start believing that you’re larger than life. Being surrounded by giant boulders and looking out into the vast ocean helps bring you back down to Earth.